crank shaft pulley
- Thread starter eaj71
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Nut on crankshaft pulley
I beleive the nut is a 45MM. I was unable to locate a wrench or socket that size, but I used a 1 13/16" wrench to remove and replace mine.
I beleive the nut is a 45MM. I was unable to locate a wrench or socket that size, but I used a 1 13/16" wrench to remove and replace mine.
Nut
It has normal threads. As my ex-wife used to say, righty-tighty, left-loosy.
If the engine is in the vehicle you would want to put it in 4H, lock the hubs, put it in 4th gear, chock the wheels, and see if that give enough resistance to allow you to loosen the nut. Or maybe have someone stand on the brakes with it in gear, to add the resistance.
I don't rightly know what engine builders do, maybe they block the flywheel from turning or something, if the engine is out.
I removed mine with an impact, and retorqued it to spec once the engine was connected back to the drivetrain.
It has normal threads. As my ex-wife used to say, righty-tighty, left-loosy.
If the engine is in the vehicle you would want to put it in 4H, lock the hubs, put it in 4th gear, chock the wheels, and see if that give enough resistance to allow you to loosen the nut. Or maybe have someone stand on the brakes with it in gear, to add the resistance.
I don't rightly know what engine builders do, maybe they block the flywheel from turning or something, if the engine is out.
I removed mine with an impact, and retorqued it to spec once the engine was connected back to the drivetrain.
- Thread starter
- #5
crank pulley
yeah that this is a MOTHER of a nut.
got a good breaker bar and the right socket.
that is the problem the engine turns over and it moves. no way to counter the thing.
have you heard of some "starter" suggestion?
eaj71
yeah that this is a MOTHER of a nut.
got a good breaker bar and the right socket.
that is the problem the engine turns over and it moves. no way to counter the thing.
have you heard of some "starter" suggestion?
eaj71
Starter suggestion
I heard of using the starter to bump the vehicle, to get the nut loose. I never tried it, and I'm trying to get my head around whether it would tighten, or loosen, the nut. I guess if loosening it tends to turn the engine in reverse rotation, then if you block the wrench, and hit the starter, it might shock the nut loose. Sounds like a way to get hurt, at least the way I end up with some of my 'home rigging'. If you try it, think about what's going to move, and where, if the nut doesn't break loose and everything else want to go the opposite direction.
I heard of using the starter to bump the vehicle, to get the nut loose. I never tried it, and I'm trying to get my head around whether it would tighten, or loosen, the nut. I guess if loosening it tends to turn the engine in reverse rotation, then if you block the wrench, and hit the starter, it might shock the nut loose. Sounds like a way to get hurt, at least the way I end up with some of my 'home rigging'. If you try it, think about what's going to move, and where, if the nut doesn't break loose and everything else want to go the opposite direction.
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- Mar 16, 2003
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Check to see if lock tabs on the washer between the nut and pulley are bent back away from the sides of the nut...otherwise the socket she no fit so good. I imagine it may aid in removal of the nut also. When I took mine off I had a chain wrench wrapped around the crank pulley (after taking the belts off) and had some thick rubber matting between the pulley and the chain to minimize the chain "biting" into the pulley flanges. The chain wrench was situated so that a 4x4 piece of lumber against the tire and against the handle of the chain wrench ensured no rotatation of the crankpulley. THEN...I still had to use a small cheater pipe on the end of my slide wrench to break the nut loose. Had to take it out a few months later and it was much easier than the first time it ever comes off!
Dave
Dave
- Thread starter
- #9
I kicked that crank shaft pulley nut's ass!
treid the stater bump method, probably helped crack it a bit.
otherwise I put it 4th gear and 4H - chocked the tires,
then I got an approprite size socket, 1 13/16", and a 3 ft pipe on the end of my new 1/2 socket wrench, ( i broke the 3/8 ths attemptin this manuver)
cranked the piss out of it ( counter clockwise), she came loose!
piece of cake,
now I will have fun with my map gass and ice to reinstll the shaft.
eaj71
treid the stater bump method, probably helped crack it a bit.
otherwise I put it 4th gear and 4H - chocked the tires,
then I got an approprite size socket, 1 13/16", and a 3 ft pipe on the end of my new 1/2 socket wrench, ( i broke the 3/8 ths attemptin this manuver)
cranked the piss out of it ( counter clockwise), she came loose!
piece of cake,
now I will have fun with my map gass and ice to reinstll the shaft.
eaj71
eaj71,
Where did you find the 1 13/16" socket? I've looked around at Sears, Home Depot, Harbor Freights, and some auto parts store and haven't seen anything that big.
Well, actually I did at Sears but on a 3/4" socket, and your post said something about a 1/2" socket. The rachet for the 3/4" socket is $80, so I'd rather stick with 1/2" if possible.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and if it helps, I'm in Fort Collins, CO.
Michael
Where did you find the 1 13/16" socket? I've looked around at Sears, Home Depot, Harbor Freights, and some auto parts store and haven't seen anything that big.
Well, actually I did at Sears but on a 3/4" socket, and your post said something about a 1/2" socket. The rachet for the 3/4" socket is $80, so I'd rather stick with 1/2" if possible.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and if it helps, I'm in Fort Collins, CO.
Michael
Any impact will do it. Even cheap Husky/Campbell Hausfield ones.
Get a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. Any cheap contractor compressor will give you enough of a burst to pull that nut. Honestly, if this was a one time thing you could use an air tank, theoretically you only need one pull of the trigger.
Or you've now got a really good excuse to buy a nice cast iron Ingersoll Rand compressor.
Anything that can rotate an impact wrench makes much easier to pull, its the way the force is transferred in sharp "bursts" or impacts. ie today when i needed to swap pulleys on some york compressors, I used to have to put the pulley in the vise, before I had an impact, but now I just zapp the pulley bolt with the impact and it came right out, didn't even need to hold the pulley to keep it from spinning.
Get a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. Any cheap contractor compressor will give you enough of a burst to pull that nut. Honestly, if this was a one time thing you could use an air tank, theoretically you only need one pull of the trigger.
Or you've now got a really good excuse to buy a nice cast iron Ingersoll Rand compressor.
Anything that can rotate an impact wrench makes much easier to pull, its the way the force is transferred in sharp "bursts" or impacts. ie today when i needed to swap pulleys on some york compressors, I used to have to put the pulley in the vise, before I had an impact, but now I just zapp the pulley bolt with the impact and it came right out, didn't even need to hold the pulley to keep it from spinning.
Thanks eaj71,
I'll stop by ACE and check them out. I found a 1 13/16" socket at both Sears and NAPA, both required a 3/4" driver. The NAPA socket was 1 1/2" deep ($10.49) and the Sears was 2" deep ($19.99). NAPA had a 1/2" to 3/4" driver adaptor for $13.59, so that was the path I was going to take. But I'll stop by ACE first to see if I can come across a 1 13/16" socket needing a 1/2" driver rather than forking the money out for the $13 adaptor.
If all goes well, I should have both pulleys replaced this weekend and that will only leave replacing the gear box as the final step in my power steering conversion.
Michael
I'll stop by ACE and check them out. I found a 1 13/16" socket at both Sears and NAPA, both required a 3/4" driver. The NAPA socket was 1 1/2" deep ($10.49) and the Sears was 2" deep ($19.99). NAPA had a 1/2" to 3/4" driver adaptor for $13.59, so that was the path I was going to take. But I'll stop by ACE first to see if I can come across a 1 13/16" socket needing a 1/2" driver rather than forking the money out for the $13 adaptor.
If all goes well, I should have both pulleys replaced this weekend and that will only leave replacing the gear box as the final step in my power steering conversion.
Michael