- Thread starter
- #61
More parts arrived... now i have all the switches, relays, wiring harnesses and my pressure switch for the on-board air!
Cory's 94 FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter colsoncj
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Got the steel cut and fitted today for the lower control arm armor... hopefully will have it welded up this weekend, along with a new exhaust put on it.
Looks pimp man.
...
...
- Thread starter
- #64
thanks!
I have those same switches... I still haven't been able to figure out how to wire them. 
The diagram they sent with the switches was worthless. If you figure it out, please post up instructions for the dumb people like myself!
The diagram they sent with the switches was worthless. If you figure it out, please post up instructions for the dumb people like myself!
- Thread starter
- #66
will do.
Cory,
how many inches did you gain in aproach angle?
how many inches did you gain in aproach angle?
- Thread starter
- #68
tonight i get the exhaust put on it, and i'll be taking measurements again to post. It will take into account tires, sliders, and rear bumper.
- Thread starter
- #69
Got the truck measured today... looks like I gained some weight, some clearance, and a much better departure angle!
- Thread starter
- #70
Good news, got the LCA armor done and welded up today... just two things left to do before the toyota takeover, need to change a rear u-joint and wire up the rear winch and lights.
- Thread starter
- #71
well after about 2 days of screwing with my switches, i finally figured out what its going to take to use them.. now to get everything wired up and back together before takeover... pics to come when its done of the armor and electrical... hopefully.
- Thread starter
- #72
Its kinda ready for takeover... rear winch wiring is done. front winch is temp wired into a temp switch, and the leads for the remote still work. front flood light wiring is done. still gotta do the rock lights, rear lights, perm fix the front winch switch, relay the fuse panel, fix the accessory outlets, and wire up the onboard air... at least its ready to wheel with 2 winches and some front lights.
Did you drop the rear control arm when you welded on the armor? Im planning something similar but dont want to melt my new bushings so I plan to drop mine.
Your van is lookin good.
D
Your van is lookin good.
D
- Thread starter
- #74
When I welded them on, I didnt drop the arms... didnt have a problem with melting either.
And thanks for the compliment. I really need to get around to doing some more updating. I've added more to the rear bumper, and modified the rear driveshaft. I'll see if I cant get this updated this weekend, and hopefully with some flex pics.
And thanks for the compliment. I really need to get around to doing some more updating. I've added more to the rear bumper, and modified the rear driveshaft. I'll see if I cant get this updated this weekend, and hopefully with some flex pics.
sweet inspiration to me
- Thread starter
- #76
Well I figure I'm overdue for an update so here it is...
First, on one of the previous wheelin trips (TTORA takeover in Hot Springs) I managed to booger up my rear driveshaft... I had just installed new u-joints and managed to toast one causing the driveshaft to fall down... also had some interference with a large rock:
So my solution to that was get a spare driveshaft to use for the street and fix the other for wheelin.... Got a new u-joint and welded that sucker in... From the first pic you can see some of the warpage due to rock carnage, second pic shows my preferred method of u-joint retention...
I also managed to get some armor finally done on the lower control arm mounts... took some 3/16 or 1/4 plate and welded it on (can't remember what i ended up using...) plates cover the sloped edge i grab on and then i also welded some on the sides to help support and prevent more carnage:
After getting the armor done, I also had that rear piece made for my rear bumper to cover up the body lift gap. Ended up using a piece of 1/4 plate, and having a local machine house cut a notch in it so i can see the drum of the winch for spooling, and CNC LAND CRUISER in it for some bling factor... welded it on in and curved it to match the tailgate, then shot some paint on it. Ended up taking a silver paint pen and going over the CNC part to make it stand out...
Next on the list was to get some of those complicated switches installed with some relays to fix my front flood lights and get some in-cab control over my rear winches... After much work, thought, some more switch ordering, some diode installation, etc... finally got my front flood lights working as desired and my in-cab winch controls working.... Heres the operation, for the front flood lights if you flip the switch forward they come on whenever you want. if you flip the switch backward the come on when the high beams come on... pretty trick if you ask me, and i love the setup. For the winches, i installed a secondary "arming" switch over on the dash by the drivers left knee. It allows power to go to the direction switches and then to the winches. that keeps ya from accidentally bumping one of the direction switches and turnin the winch on. there are two directional switches on the console, along with the front flood switch and a switch for the rear flood lights I'll be installing later. each of those directional switches allow you to let line out or spool line in depending on which way you flip the switch.... and one switch for each winch.... how bout some pics:
Arming switch:
Directional winch switches and light switches:
Also to help add character to the truck I loaned it to a buddy which had a deer broadside him. managed to dent the front drivers door, cave in the rear drivers door, and cave in the rear quarter.... after some pounding its a little straighter:
Which now brings me to the future plans... next up I've acquired 4 more doors thanks to a fellow wheeler who took time out of his day to go get them from a salvage yard for me (thanks Aaron!). I'm goina gut them and chop them down to make me some half doors. should help reduce some weight and also remove some side glass.... which means less glass to possibly break while wheelin! To continue that glass removal theme, after the doors, I'm planning on cutting off the back hatch and frame and relocating it to behind the 2nd row seats. I'll weld in another tailgate in the bottom, and retain the functionality of the rear hatch. This will remove the 3rd row seat area and convert it to a pickup bed like area. It also removes the roof and rearmost side glass, so no more scraping that on trees and worring about popping the glass.... should be interesting. Then as time allows, install my on-board air setup (already have all the parts), and some rock lights!
First, on one of the previous wheelin trips (TTORA takeover in Hot Springs) I managed to booger up my rear driveshaft... I had just installed new u-joints and managed to toast one causing the driveshaft to fall down... also had some interference with a large rock:
So my solution to that was get a spare driveshaft to use for the street and fix the other for wheelin.... Got a new u-joint and welded that sucker in... From the first pic you can see some of the warpage due to rock carnage, second pic shows my preferred method of u-joint retention...
I also managed to get some armor finally done on the lower control arm mounts... took some 3/16 or 1/4 plate and welded it on (can't remember what i ended up using...) plates cover the sloped edge i grab on and then i also welded some on the sides to help support and prevent more carnage:
After getting the armor done, I also had that rear piece made for my rear bumper to cover up the body lift gap. Ended up using a piece of 1/4 plate, and having a local machine house cut a notch in it so i can see the drum of the winch for spooling, and CNC LAND CRUISER in it for some bling factor... welded it on in and curved it to match the tailgate, then shot some paint on it. Ended up taking a silver paint pen and going over the CNC part to make it stand out...
Next on the list was to get some of those complicated switches installed with some relays to fix my front flood lights and get some in-cab control over my rear winches... After much work, thought, some more switch ordering, some diode installation, etc... finally got my front flood lights working as desired and my in-cab winch controls working.... Heres the operation, for the front flood lights if you flip the switch forward they come on whenever you want. if you flip the switch backward the come on when the high beams come on... pretty trick if you ask me, and i love the setup. For the winches, i installed a secondary "arming" switch over on the dash by the drivers left knee. It allows power to go to the direction switches and then to the winches. that keeps ya from accidentally bumping one of the direction switches and turnin the winch on. there are two directional switches on the console, along with the front flood switch and a switch for the rear flood lights I'll be installing later. each of those directional switches allow you to let line out or spool line in depending on which way you flip the switch.... and one switch for each winch.... how bout some pics:
Arming switch:
Directional winch switches and light switches:
Also to help add character to the truck I loaned it to a buddy which had a deer broadside him. managed to dent the front drivers door, cave in the rear drivers door, and cave in the rear quarter.... after some pounding its a little straighter:
Which now brings me to the future plans... next up I've acquired 4 more doors thanks to a fellow wheeler who took time out of his day to go get them from a salvage yard for me (thanks Aaron!). I'm goina gut them and chop them down to make me some half doors. should help reduce some weight and also remove some side glass.... which means less glass to possibly break while wheelin! To continue that glass removal theme, after the doors, I'm planning on cutting off the back hatch and frame and relocating it to behind the 2nd row seats. I'll weld in another tailgate in the bottom, and retain the functionality of the rear hatch. This will remove the 3rd row seat area and convert it to a pickup bed like area. It also removes the roof and rearmost side glass, so no more scraping that on trees and worring about popping the glass.... should be interesting. Then as time allows, install my on-board air setup (already have all the parts), and some rock lights!
- Thread starter
- #77
UPDATE TIME...
Well, sold the boat, so its back to wheelin again!!! Just ordered a UHMW hawse fairlead for the rear, so now that will be taken care of. Soon as I get all the boat deal finalized, and get my new wheelin trip setup bought, I'm goina order new springs, and stuff to 3 link the front. Goina try and get it lifted, new brake lines, new shocks, new springs, and the 3 link done between August 16th and Sept 23rd... should be interesting!
Well, sold the boat, so its back to wheelin again!!! Just ordered a UHMW hawse fairlead for the rear, so now that will be taken care of. Soon as I get all the boat deal finalized, and get my new wheelin trip setup bought, I'm goina order new springs, and stuff to 3 link the front. Goina try and get it lifted, new brake lines, new shocks, new springs, and the 3 link done between August 16th and Sept 23rd... should be interesting!
So you have beefed up the brackets on your control arms but what about control arms themselves? Like some angle iron or something!
- Thread starter
- #79
I'm taking the as soon as it breaks, fix it approach on those. When I bend one, I'll pull them off and make new ones with johnny joints and DOM tube.... Til then I'm more focused on the front suspension, a little lift action, half doors, and OBA.
Really interested in half doors, wish I was in area where I could make some and run them year round! Awesome build!
