Correct metal oil filter housing ?
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seems also.....filter element is # 04152-YZZA5 instead of 'A3'
ideas ?
ideas ?
Yes - but you already know that 'cause you saw it on another forum.
The oil filter PN changes as Toyota obsoletes one PN and replaces with another. I think A5 is the latest in the progression.
The oil filter PN changes as Toyota obsoletes one PN and replaces with another. I think A5 is the latest in the progression.
The metal one has a tendency to seep/leak at the drain plug.
Why would you want to swap them out? The plastic one actually transfers heat better and if you buy the socket service is easy.
Why would you want to swap them out? The plastic one actually transfers heat better and if you buy the socket service is easy.
ive seen the metal ones leak at the drain cap, but its usually after about 120k with out changing the o-ring or never even removing the cap. metal would be my first choice as ive broken more plastic ones because some idiot decided that the filter housing was the best thing to try that new 4 ft breaker bar on because we all know that its not the o-ring that seals it its how tight you can crank it on
I do my own services/ oil changes so no worries about over tightening and with the proper socket it doesn't get chewed up either.
Acrad
GOLD Star
I've used this same metal oil filter removal tool with my metal cap for years.
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Heck! Now that I know the dimensions I can print one on my 3D printer!I've used this same metal oil filter removal tool with my metal cap for years.
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Just have to make it robust enough to not break when torquing.
I can even do custom colors like Princess Pink, Hop-Scotch Yellow or even Martha Stewart green!
(not...)
the reason why we use hard plastic inserts instead of aluminum is that the aluminum cup wall is very thin, so plastic under heat will not expend as much as aluminum, that aluminum insert is not for 5.7 motors you need plastic or you can crack the actual cup when its expended and that be a problem.
see where you can use aluminum and see there you need a plastic
Acrad
GOLD Star
These metal cap retrofits have been going on for over a decade. i can‘t remember coming across any incidents on other forums about these cracking.
I replaced my wifes 2015 RAV4 with an aluminum housing a few years back....and then within ~6 months, threw it away and went back to a brand new plastic one.
My wifes plastic housing was rather screwed up from the "free" dealership oil changes and I thought it'd be an upgrade. The aluminum unit developed a slow leak within months, which only got worse over the miles, to the point the RAV4 eventually dripped oil on the driveway.
After that experience, and buying brand new OEM plastic housing, my opinion is this:
- The aluminum units don't seem to mate to the sealing surface well and overall seem to have quality control or warping issues.
- The plastic ones can easily be damaged by fools installing them, but if used correctly, they're rather decent and do the job well.
If yours is busted up/aged, buying a fresh one should restore your confidence in them. Then get the right tool to R&R them and understand the seal doesn't occur due to torque, only enough tightness is needed to keep the housing torqued on and not spinning off, not sealing in oil, so normally snug tight is good.
My wifes plastic housing was rather screwed up from the "free" dealership oil changes and I thought it'd be an upgrade. The aluminum unit developed a slow leak within months, which only got worse over the miles, to the point the RAV4 eventually dripped oil on the driveway.
After that experience, and buying brand new OEM plastic housing, my opinion is this:
- The aluminum units don't seem to mate to the sealing surface well and overall seem to have quality control or warping issues.
- The plastic ones can easily be damaged by fools installing them, but if used correctly, they're rather decent and do the job well.
If yours is busted up/aged, buying a fresh one should restore your confidence in them. Then get the right tool to R&R them and understand the seal doesn't occur due to torque, only enough tightness is needed to keep the housing torqued on and not spinning off, not sealing in oil, so normally snug tight is good.
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Acrad
GOLD Star
Were you using aftermarket aluminum or OEM?
I've been using OEM metal unit for nearly 4.5 years without a problem. Never even slightest weep/seep and easy to remove as only on at 18 ft-lbs.
On a 460 if one wants to go with model not using the end-cap this one used on a large number of Lexus passenger sedans up through 2015 reportedly works.
PN: 15620-31040
This info wasn't easily found when I swapped mine in 2017 so I have the model with the removable end-cap which doesn't help on a horizontally mounted filter.
I've seen more than a few videos on Youtube of 460 oil changes and watch owner put o-ring on the wrong spot on oil filter cap. I never repost those anywhere as to not spread bad info.
I've been using OEM metal unit for nearly 4.5 years without a problem. Never even slightest weep/seep and easy to remove as only on at 18 ft-lbs.
On a 460 if one wants to go with model not using the end-cap this one used on a large number of Lexus passenger sedans up through 2015 reportedly works.
PN: 15620-31040
This info wasn't easily found when I swapped mine in 2017 so I have the model with the removable end-cap which doesn't help on a horizontally mounted filter.
I've seen more than a few videos on Youtube of 460 oil changes and watch owner put o-ring on the wrong spot on oil filter cap. I never repost those anywhere as to not spread bad info.
It was an aftermarket one from NAPA.
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PSA from the CCN, make sure you use the correct oil filter housing! Also, another reason to do your own oil changes.......
Acrad
GOLD Star
I first put on the OEM retrofit version nearly a decade back but then cutover to the OEM one that doesn't require a retrofit nor has the unneeded end plug.
PN: 15620-31040
PN: 15620-31040
@Acrad are you sure PN: 15620-31040 is correct? When you look up compatible vehicles on lexus part stores, it doesn't list the GX and states that this housing is for V6 engine variants. The only GX filter housing I could find was the OEM plastic version, i.e. PN#1565038050. I'm still running the retrofit version, i.e. 15620-31040 plus plug 15643-31050, although the CCN video has me concerned about whether the toyota dealer that originally changed my filter housing (disaster story and why I only change the oil myself from then on) installed the correct length of inner perforated tube, or whether the housing is the correct geometry for the GX (e.g. correct valve spring size and length)
Acrad
GOLD Star
I know it won't show compatible but it works.. I've been running it for 3 years now and added it to most of the forum parts lists here and on CL.
I think the biggest con is it is more expensive that one you would retrofit.
IIRC... learned from a Lexus mechanic on GXOR who had told me it works.
I think the biggest con is it is more expensive that one you would retrofit.
IIRC... learned from a Lexus mechanic on GXOR who had told me it works.
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I never understood the utility in this. Someone school me.
The filter is so tucked up you'd have to be climbing a waterfall with no skids for it to have an impact. Is well above the sway bar in a 4” wide opening 6-8” above the frame rail… which should have a skid bolted to it.
Any reported actual documented failures to motivate this mod?
I thought about this but if you protect against plastic you might introduce metal shavings or worse, the cheap after market spring could ruin you if the oil bypass doesn’t open correctly when needed.
The filter is so tucked up you'd have to be climbing a waterfall with no skids for it to have an impact. Is well above the sway bar in a 4” wide opening 6-8” above the frame rail… which should have a skid bolted to it.
Any reported actual documented failures to motivate this mod?
I thought about this but if you protect against plastic you might introduce metal shavings or worse, the cheap after market spring could ruin you if the oil bypass doesn’t open correctly when needed.