A bare bones list of fuses/ relays and tools you should have to get you home.
Can always add a page if you guys want to add anything to it.
I put this together from the FAQ pages.
(Delete the tools paragraph below and the rest will fit on one page.)
TOOLS you should carry- Would fit in a tool roll up.
Pliers, Spark plug removal tool, screwdrivers and wrenches fund in
tool kit with tire tools in back on the left side
Emery cloth or other to clean battery connections (Wire brush)
Voltmeter
Timing light or other tool to validate spark
OBD II Scanner (Not reader) for 96 and up.
New packs of matches.
Print-
There are only three critical regular sized fuses required for the
engine to start and run
15A EFI located in the under hood fuse box
7.5A Ignition located in the fuse box at the drivers knee
15A ECU-IG located in the fuse box at the drivers knee
You should stock at least some 15A and 7.5 amp blade fuses if not a
complete set, but those two sizes are what you need to limp home.
Critical Relays
EFI main relay, under hood fuse box & Circuit opening relay, turns
fuel pump on and off, located behind the drivers left kick panel, Both
of these relays are the same part number, 90987-02004, you should have
one in the glove box.
Starter cut relay, for theft deterent, usually drivers left kick
panel, starter cut relay probably depends on witch alarm you have,
some trucks may not eve have this relay.
Fuel pump relay, changes the speed of the fuel pump, bolted to the
drivers side inner fender near the back on the edge of a large
opening. part number 28381-16020, not as cheap but roadside repairable
per Ricks instructions, so you do not have to stock this one.
The three come from Toyota as a set, all three are replaced at the
same time, they are cheap, everyone should have a set in their glove
box, and everyone should also carry an assortment of regular blade
fuses also,
"Main" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the 15A EFI fuse
under the hood, you can test this one from the drivers seat by turning
on the radio, headlights, ac/heat fan, defrost, stop light, tail
lights and telephone, if any of the above work then this fusible link
is good,
"AM1" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the ignition switch
and provides the power for to the starter solenoid, you can check this
one from the drivers seat by checking the horn/hazards, dome light,
diff locks, rear heat, turn signals, cigarette lighter, or wipers,
If you have the hazard & horn but none of the others check the big 50A
AM1 fuse in the under hood fuse box (50A AM1 fuse not to be confused
with the AM1 fusible link) Might not be a bad idea to stock a 50A fuse
incase the big AM1 fuse blows
"AM2" is probably the most engine centric, it provides power to the
ignition switch, the injectors, the igniter, the ignition coil, the
distributor, and the alternator control system, if you get the yellow
light on the volt meter with “key on engine off” this fusible link is
good.
Can always add a page if you guys want to add anything to it.
I put this together from the FAQ pages.
(Delete the tools paragraph below and the rest will fit on one page.)
TOOLS you should carry- Would fit in a tool roll up.
Pliers, Spark plug removal tool, screwdrivers and wrenches fund in
tool kit with tire tools in back on the left side
Emery cloth or other to clean battery connections (Wire brush)
Voltmeter
Timing light or other tool to validate spark
OBD II Scanner (Not reader) for 96 and up.
New packs of matches.
Print-
There are only three critical regular sized fuses required for the
engine to start and run
15A EFI located in the under hood fuse box
7.5A Ignition located in the fuse box at the drivers knee
15A ECU-IG located in the fuse box at the drivers knee
You should stock at least some 15A and 7.5 amp blade fuses if not a
complete set, but those two sizes are what you need to limp home.
Critical Relays
EFI main relay, under hood fuse box & Circuit opening relay, turns
fuel pump on and off, located behind the drivers left kick panel, Both
of these relays are the same part number, 90987-02004, you should have
one in the glove box.
Starter cut relay, for theft deterent, usually drivers left kick
panel, starter cut relay probably depends on witch alarm you have,
some trucks may not eve have this relay.
Fuel pump relay, changes the speed of the fuel pump, bolted to the
drivers side inner fender near the back on the edge of a large
opening. part number 28381-16020, not as cheap but roadside repairable
per Ricks instructions, so you do not have to stock this one.
The three come from Toyota as a set, all three are replaced at the
same time, they are cheap, everyone should have a set in their glove
box, and everyone should also carry an assortment of regular blade
fuses also,
"Main" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the 15A EFI fuse
under the hood, you can test this one from the drivers seat by turning
on the radio, headlights, ac/heat fan, defrost, stop light, tail
lights and telephone, if any of the above work then this fusible link
is good,
"AM1" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the ignition switch
and provides the power for to the starter solenoid, you can check this
one from the drivers seat by checking the horn/hazards, dome light,
diff locks, rear heat, turn signals, cigarette lighter, or wipers,
If you have the hazard & horn but none of the others check the big 50A
AM1 fuse in the under hood fuse box (50A AM1 fuse not to be confused
with the AM1 fusible link) Might not be a bad idea to stock a 50A fuse
incase the big AM1 fuse blows
"AM2" is probably the most engine centric, it provides power to the
ignition switch, the injectors, the igniter, the ignition coil, the
distributor, and the alternator control system, if you get the yellow
light on the volt meter with “key on engine off” this fusible link is
good.
