Coolant T broke - plastic fell into engine block (1 Viewer)

[GrapeApe9]

I was doing preventative maintenance on my ‘99 Land Cruiser by replacing the plastic T’s on the coolant lines. I eventually got the clamps backed away, and the first T removed intact. The 2nd T, closer to the driver side, broke inside the hose that goes to the engine. While trying to get the broken plastic bits out they apparently came free and slid down into the engine. I scoped down the metal coolant tube coming up from the engine block, closer to the drivers side, and cannot see the plastic pieces.

I don’t know the flow direction of the coolant and if this can be flushed out, or if it’ll cause problems to just leave?? Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[flintknapper]

IF the parts were not particularly large and not too many...I wouldn't worry about it. The line you describe is the inlet side to the heater(s) so it is 'possible' stray pieces of the old plastic Tee could lodge in them and partially obstruct the passages.

If you have already run the heater(s) and they are working to your satisfaction...then just don't worry about it.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Like @flintknapper says if broken pieces were small and you have already buttoned everything up already check if heater works and if so you are likely fine. This has happened to many others before you.

If it is still opened up tape a hose or tube large as possible but small enough to get into the top of the coolant port to your shop vac. Use your hand or rags to form a seal and give it a few quick blasts of suctions. Check vac for recovery and be prepared to top off coolant that may have been evacuated by shop vac.

Good luck!

 

[GrapeApe9]

Ok, thank you both! The LC is sitting in the garage with things still torn apart. So I’ll give the shop vac a try.

Thanks again, appreciate the advice!

 

[planomateo]

This will give you info on the flow direction.

View attachment 1534381

Via DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*

 

[GrapeApe9]

Thanks for the diagram!

Here’s what I tried...created a tight seal with the shop vac onto the metal tube coming up from the engine, as suggested above. Then quickly hit the on/off button a few times. This drew out one small plastic piece, but not all. So then I tried several prolonged vacuum pulls, until it wouldn’t pull anymore coolant. Yet the remaining plastic pieces never did surface.

The shop vac happened to be new from Christmas so I just funneled the clean coolant back into the engine block.

I then ran the engine with the front slightly elevated for about 20-30min to release trapped air. Unfortunately, the heat at the air vents doesn’t get hot like before. It does get warm, but is slow and even then it’s not really warm enough for upper-Midwest winters.

I believe the coolant level is full, but plan to check again once I’ve picked up more coolant.

Thanks again.

 

[Qtonic]

Autozone in my area is closing out Pentosin brand Pentofrost OE coolants in Red and Pink (and other colors) for $10. I assume your 99 has Red. You might check there if you want a good deal fast. Pentosin is German and good quality in my opinion. Many of their products are OE for my BMW M3.

If you're interested, you may want to look on the AZ website and change stores to see who might have stock in your area. My dealer wanted $35! for pink last time I went to the parts desk. I stocked up on all the pink and red I could find for $10. Just FYI, good luck sorting it out!

 

[Cola]

Thanks for the diagram!

Here’s what I tried...created a tight seal with the shop vac onto the metal tube coming up from the engine, as suggested above. Then quickly hit the on/off button a few times. This drew out one small plastic piece, but not all. So then I tried several prolonged vacuum pulls, until it wouldn’t pull anymore coolant. Yet the remaining plastic pieces never did surface.

The shop vac happened to be new from Christmas so I just funneled the clean coolant back into the engine block.

I then ran the engine with the front slightly elevated for about 20-30min to release trapped air. Unfortunately, the heat at the air vents doesn’t get hot like before. It does get warm, but is slow and even then it’s not really warm enough for upper-Midwest winters.

I believe the coolant level is full, but plan to check again once I’ve picked up more coolant.

Thanks again.

When you were burping the system did you leave the heat on? If not that's your problem. Leave it on high and burp it again. Lots of air gets trapped in the heater core otherwise