Coolant Smell: No Overheating

[ebod]

I did a search and found too many hits to decipher to find issues similar to mine.

On my 2004 LC, I noticed a faint coolant smell after driving and that my coolant overflow tank was nearly empty. The LC never overheated. I took it to the shop (high end shop, but not LC specialists) and they replaced heater hoses at the rear of the engine compartment and the thermostat housing (which had a tiny bit of pink crust on it). Expensive job, and my LC still exhibits the same symptoms (maybe a little less, but still present). Here are some things I've noticed that may help figure this out:

-- Engine oil looks fine (i.e., not a milkshake)
-- No smokey (or steamy) exhaust
-- I have been using my heat a bit
-- I feel like I smell the coolant more on the right side (but this may just be me being crazy)
-- I don't know what the "Ts" are and/or whether they've been replaced. I don't, however, see any pink crust on visible parts of the engine. Would replacing Ts be part of doing the heater hoses?
-- My commute is only 4-5 miles each way and, I don't think I've driven much more than that at any time since I've noticed this issue.

Any help you guys can give to help diagnose this (or to help me tell mechanic what to look for as I'm not very good DIY) would by greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[2020 Rocks]

The smell of coolant is likely wherever it's dripping hitting a hot part of the motor or exhaust, which is why you may not see a leak of puddling. Check the heater hoses and tees, they are at the back of the engine bay at the middle.

 

[BEG]

I had the same issue after switching from Toyota Red coolant to Zerex Asian. No evidence of leaks from the hoses or tees, but a slight smell. Ended up being the rectangular connection on the water inlet housing. The leak was only visible looking up from below. Worth a look.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The smell of coolant is likely wherever it's dripping hitting a hot part of the motor or exhaust, which is why you may not see a leak of puddling. Check the heater hoses and tees, they are at the back of the engine bay at the middle.

I concur, but would add the gaskets for the rear crossover pipe and/or the downpipe pressed into the rear crossover could be leaking.

 

[slacker24-7]

Also check for a slight water pump leak , I had that same thing going on for several weeks I never had any coolant on the ground or on any of the upper hoses or connections. I finally found it by crawling under the cruiser with a flashlight and saw moisture coming from the right side of the engine from the WP. It was drying before it made it to the ground .

 

[OTSWolf]

Don't forget to check the easy stuff too. My LC had a similar smell and it was the heater T's. The clamps had come loose and were dripping on to the back of the engine burning off. Giving me the coolant burning smell. Given that they just did the work back there, it won't hurt to check, especially if they used a worm type clamp. Easy to forget to tighten and can loosen up if cheap quality over time.

 

[mobi-arc]

Don't forget to check the easy stuff too. My LC had a similar smell and it was the heater T's. The clamps had come loose and were dripping on to the back of the engine burning off. Giving me the coolant burning smell. Given that they just did the work back there, it won't hurt to check, especially if they used a worm type clamp. Easy to forget to tighten and can loosen up if cheap quality over time.

My truck getting attention for this same exact issue on Thursday. Smelled coolant last week and the overflow tank was empty. Finally visualized the leaking coolant at the between the back of the engine and firewall.

 

[2001LC]

Could be they did not wash after R&R heater hoses, which likely means they did the Tees also. The coolant gets on back of engine and transmission during the job. Same is true for thermostat housing on front of engine.

If sweet smell does not pass in a few days, take back and have them look. Toyota pink or red leaves a very visible trail at any leak.

Also make sure your coolant is properly topped. This is how: Park with front end higher than rear. Let cool down over night. Remove radiator cap before starting. Top radiator all the way until fluid in neck. Then add to reservoir, no higher than max line on hot day and near low line on very cold day. Do this daily until system will not take more coolant. Only add same coolant or for small amounts you can use distilled water in system.

I'd assume mechanic also put in a new thermostat and thermostat gasket. A new radiator cap is a good idea also. The OEM thermostat goes in with jiggle valve up. Asked mechanic where he oriented the jiggle value. If he says WHAT!.. That's not good.

 

[ebod]

By way of an update. I filled the overflow take up to near the full line and I've had the car up to operating temperature and back down 15-20+ times, sometime with heat on and sometimes without. I haven't driven that many miles (I usually only go 5-10 miles at a pop). The coolant isn't noticeably lower in the tank (I didn't fill it exactly to the line and I don't park at a level spot, so impossible to be precise). I can still smell a bit of a hot/burning smell if I really stick my nose near the engine when hot (maybe it always did this and I'm just paranoid now). I'm hoping that the shop just didn't fill it all the way up when they re-did my hoses. I'll keep an eye on it, of course.

Thanks for the input!