Cold start issues

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Well, had the battery tested last night and it tested just fine according to the guy at NTB.

Now the question is, do I rebuild the starter thinking that could be it at $90-125 + $80-120 for labor or do a refurbed one online and do it myself?

Problem is, it's cold and I don't have a heated garage to work in.

Thoughts?

Rebuild it yourself, I have done 2 engine swaps outside my garage when it was below 20 outside (cruiser won't fit in garage)...just dress warm and get a little space heater...
 
Rebuild it yourself, I have done 2 engine swaps outside my garage when it was below 20 outside (cruiser won't fit in garage)...just dress warm and get a little space heater...
I've heard that these rebuilds are easy. It's not a bad idea to do so but I don't think I know enough of what I'm looking for on the rebuild.

What are your thoughts on a reman?

Then I could rebuild my current starter at my leisure or keep it for a local member.
 
I think that could be it. A bad connection could cause your poor cranking.

I hope so! I started it up last night after it had sat since the morning and it had trouble starting so I cut the key... waited a few seconds, then cranked it again and the idle was a little rough for about 3 seconds. Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if the rough idle is a cause of a bad starter and not indicative of a fuel issue.

Regardless, on my way home from work today, I'm going to run by Autozone and get the starter/alternator tested and keep plugging away at the issue.

Thanks for your guys' help over the last few weeks.
 
Rough idle = low fuel pressure maybe.

Rough idle cannot be caused by a bad starter (that I'm aware of).

I would try simply disconnecting the coil and cranking it to see how it "sounds". Disconnect the coil on the shock tower. It's a two-pin connector with a squeeze tab to remove it. Remove your EFI relay so you don't flood it. Then crank it and listen to how the starter sounds. It should be able to spin the engine pretty well, although not start.


I just went back and watched your videos. In the second vid, your dash lights go way dim when you are cranking and not firing. That seems like your battery/cables isn't providing enough current or your starter is drawing too much (wanting more than can be provided). Bad cables or a shorted winding in the starter possibly.

Can you see the starter? Does it look like it has been replaced? If not, how many miles are on the truck (not a great measuring stick, but close)?

If you go with a reman, try to get the higher KW rated starter. I don't know the specifics as Robbie sourced one for me.

I still don't get the "leave the key on for 30 seconds and it starts" part though. It might be that when you are cranking the voltage is too low to build adequate fuel pressure.

When cranking with no chance of starting (stuff disconnected as above), it should sound healthy and not have any variance as heard in your video. In your vid, it sounds like the starter is struggling. Don't crank more than about 20-30 seconds at a time without resting a minute in between though.
 
Rough idle = low fuel pressure maybe.

Rough idle cannot be caused by a bad starter (that I'm aware of).

I would try simply disconnecting the coil and cranking it to see how it "sounds". Disconnect the coil on the shock tower. It's a two-pin connector with a squeeze tab to remove it. Remove your EFI relay so you don't flood it. Then crank it and listen to how the starter sounds. It should be able to spin the engine pretty well, although not start.


I just went back and watched your videos. In the second vid, your dash lights go way dim when you are cranking and not firing. That seems like your battery/cables isn't providing enough current or your starter is drawing too much (wanting more than can be provided). Bad cables or a shorted winding in the starter possibly.

Can you see the starter? Does it look like it has been replaced? If not, how many miles are on the truck (not a great measuring stick, but close)?

If you go with a reman, try to get the higher KW rated starter. I don't know the specifics as Robbie sourced one for me.

I still don't get the "leave the key on for 30 seconds and it starts" part though. It might be that when you are cranking the voltage is too low to build adequate fuel pressure.

When cranking with no chance of starting (stuff disconnected as above), it should sound healthy and not have any variance as heard in your video. In your vid, it sounds like the starter is struggling. Don't crank more than about 20-30 seconds at a time without resting a minute in between though.


This... this is helpful. I need to pop open the hood and look at a few things while it's warm this weekend. It may be a week or so before the temps drop enough to investigate further.

I am 100% with ya on the last two paragraphs.

Haven't looked at the starter yet but I'm at 153,080 miles this morning. I get off at 1 today so I'll look at it when I'm at Autozone.
 
IMAG1530.webp
IMAG1531.webp


Got a fuel filter room auto zone on order. That is going to be my next "checklist" item.
 
Hey guys, it's been cold and the saga continues. I am practically worthless if it's not immediately pressing and I think I've gotten to that point. A new starter will be ordered asap.

I went to crank it this morning at about 7* and the truck clicked once at me then nothing. I tried it again after a second and the same thing happened. Could it be the battery? Maybe... But it's a die hard platinum that I trust quite a bit. So, I decided to drive the real truck to work today since I knew it would start. The temps this evening are around 25* and the old girl fired right up! Real quick start and away she goes.


I think it's the starter acting up. The other day, I cranked it at 7-10* and it fired right up then too. The ONLY difference is that I did my "key" trick where I let it sit in the on position for 30-60 seconds.

Anyway, anybody have some thoughts before I replace the starter? I suppose I should get the battery "tested" but I think it's fine.


I suppose I should note that the battery was reading around 14.75 volts on my ultragauge.
 
Had to drive my girlfriend to the airport in some slush Sunday morning at 530 and I thiught this was kind of cool. Here's a pic for all you guys

IMAG1656.webp
 
Nice black truck! :flipoff2:
If you were good at photoshop, you could make that picture look like you was driftin'... :cool:

Your problem is starting to sound like a bad battery.
It should measure 12.6 if it's fully charged (engine off, key turned back on before UG shuts off, look at voltage). Or just measure it with a DMM after it's been off for a few hours. 12.6 is fully charged typically. The UG trick may not read correctly as it will show the battery voltage before it settles.

Your voltage reading sounds good for a happy alternator. Maybe a bit high? A bad battery or connection could cause it to read high possibly. I'd start mine, but it's inside. :wrench::wrench:

I've replaced batteries that were one year old because they wouldn't crank. A fresh battery has kept me from hours of wasted troubleshooting a few times. This seems to be more common when the battery is infrequently used, rather than every day use.

Make up a cig lighter to DMM cable so you can measure your voltage easily from inside. Be careful you don't short it out when it's plugged into the lighter socket. That will be a fairly decent measurement of your actual battery voltage.

I just replaced the 4 year old battery in my wife's car. We've been seeing minus temps here, and it would barely crank. The new battery spins the engine well now, even at sub zero. She's a happy :princess:. I'm happy too.
I'm a little worried about my battery in my 80... It's a cheap battery I bought to get it running two and a half years ago. I don't trust it, and I try not to put myself in a situation where it's a possible failure.

You can almost bet the battery will test bad because they want to sell you a new battery... Sometimes they're right.

Keep us posted. You might save me some time some day in the future with what you find... :beer:
 
Nice black truck! :flipoff2:
If you were good at photoshop, you could make that picture look like you was driftin'... :cool:

Your problem is starting to sound like a bad battery.
It should measure 12.6 if it's fully charged (engine off, key turned back on before UG shuts off, look at voltage). Or just measure it with a DMM after it's been off for a few hours. 12.6 is fully charged typically. The UG trick may not read correctly as it will show the battery voltage before it settles.

Your voltage reading sounds good for a happy alternator. Maybe a bit high? A bad battery or connection could cause it to read high possibly. I'd start mine, but it's inside. :wrench::wrench:

I've replaced batteries that were one year old because they wouldn't crank. A fresh battery has kept me from hours of wasted troubleshooting a few times. This seems to be more common when the battery is infrequently used, rather than every day use.

Make up a cig lighter to DMM cable so you can measure your voltage easily from inside. Be careful you don't short it out when it's plugged into the lighter socket. That will be a fairly decent measurement of your actual battery voltage.

I just replaced the 4 year old battery in my wife's car. We've been seeing minus temps here, and it would barely crank. The new battery spins the engine well now, even at sub zero. She's a happy :princess:. I'm happy too.
I'm a little worried about my battery in my 80... It's a cheap battery I bought to get it running two and a half years ago. I don't trust it, and I try not to put myself in a situation where it's a possible failure.

You can almost bet the battery will test bad because they want to sell you a new battery... Sometimes they're right.

Keep us posted. You might save me some time some day in the future with what you find... :beer:

Haha that and turn the picture sideways at a cool angle! Now that's the ticket...

Interesting that you think it's the battery! I would be shocked but not totally surprised with how old the battery is in the Land Cruiser.

I'll get the battery tested some time this week in hopes I can eliminate that. Good point on the alternator keeping the battery happy.

So do you think that even with a bad battery it would start without a jump? I didn't do anything special to it since this morning. ...

Also, I had previously a Walmart battery that is less than a year old in the truck that I swapped to the Tundra to eliminate it. I think I mentioned that earlier in the thread.

Maybe I have two issues here?
 
Get a good voltmeter and know for sure. :wrench: :banana:

Haha good point.

I took the lazy route this morning and went to NTB to get it tested on the way to work. This is on the Die Hard Platinum that is a number of years old. Not too shabby!

Measured: 646 CCA
Rated: 740 CCA

The slip said 28* but it was probably in the teens when it was tested. Also, it fired right up this morning. Quite impressive!

So, maybe a fluke? Maybe the starter?
 
Hi rockstate. I have been dealing with the same problem since the temps got very low here in New York. Exactly the same issue as you. First time it happened I said maybe my battery is no good. Battery is about 4 yrs old. ( got it tested, and it was good) I got it at Sears. forgot what kind is it. Then, I walk away for like an Hr. came back and the truck started with out problem. I replaced the starter about 3 yrs ago. OEM. Last week it did it again. This morning here in NY is very cold. It did it again. I tried like 3 times and no luck. I walk away for about an hr. now I went out and the truck started without a problem. I moved it inside the garage and see what happens after lunch. like i said, same exactly issue as your. I called my Local Toyota dealer, I know the parts guy there, and He things it could be a cold start relay...... Any toughs on this?
frismanb
 
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