Okay Here Is The Problem And I Will Be As Specific As Possible. Several Monthes Ago I Began To Find That When I Stopped At An Intersection I Could Not Shift Into First Gear To Proceed. This Got Worse And Worse Until It Affected All Gears. I Had To Turn Off The Engine Shift Into Gear Put The Clutch In And Then Let It Out To Go Forward. I Then Replaced The Cluth Master Cylinder And For About A Month It Worked Perfectly. Then After A Day Of Wheeling It Sudenlly Became Impossible To Shift Into Any Gear. I Then Replaced The Slave Clutch Bled It And Nothing Changed Except At This Point Even With The Engine Off When I Put It Into Gear The Clutch Would Not Work And The Car Would Jump Forward When I Turned The Key As If The Clutch Were Not Used. Any Help As To What The Problem Can Be Would Be Deeply Appreciated.
Clutch Problem
- Thread starter shad40
- Start date
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At resting position without the tension spring installed, there should be VERY little freeplay in the clutch slave pushrod. Like you should not be able to move it back and forth at all, but you should be able to spin it with your fingers. The release lever end is adjustable and has a locknut.
Do you have any slave labor to help? Get someone to lay underneath and watch what happens to the clutch release arm when you push the pedal. I can't remember how far it should move with a full pedal stroke, but I'd guess about 1-1.5". If it's doing that and you still aren't disengaged, it may be time for a new clutch...
Do you have any slave labor to help? Get someone to lay underneath and watch what happens to the clutch release arm when you push the pedal. I can't remember how far it should move with a full pedal stroke, but I'd guess about 1-1.5". If it's doing that and you still aren't disengaged, it may be time for a new clutch...
I mean as detailed in the factory service manual:
Pedal height: 8.5 inches above floor.
Pedal play: .040 - .2 inch at pedal (this is about a quarter turn of the rod off the master piston when the piston is all the way out at rest).
Slave fork - rod play .15 inch. This can be a little tighter if needed; just make sure that the TO bearing is not riding on the pressure plate fingers.
As the clutch wears, you need to adjust it. Maybe every 5-10,000 miles.
sepr2
SILVER Star
Have someone push in the clutch pedal and look to see if the clutch fork moves and how much. Maybe new master is bad?
When you start it in gear does it move forward like the clutch is engaging? When you pull out from a stop how high do you have to lift the clutch before you start to move? If the pedal if just off the stop at the floor then I'd say it needs adjusting. If it's more like in the middle of the pedal travel than I'd think about the pilot bushing.
Kevin
Kevin
adjustment.........
8.5 inches is the height that Toyota thinks is correct. If you set it lower, you may not get enough "stroke" at the slave cylinder. This is from the 1980 factory chassis manual, so it should be the same for a '79.
could be your problem, pretty uncommon, but if the pilot bearing is seized on the input shaft, it will act like direct drive no matter what the clutch does. Put trans in a gear other than 4th and then get it rolling down a hill or whatever you can do start the engine with clutch engaged, (pressed down). Then dump the clutch . This usually will at least break it loose for then. Also a large oil leak in the clutch are will do the same thing. That disc will act just like a brake shoe, and swell up. With a hydraulic clutch make sure you have .5 in or so pedal freeplay, other than that there is no adjustment. Other possibility could be a bad cover.
Take the inspection cover off and look at the clearance between the pressure plate and the clutch disk when the pedal is depressed. If there is clearance (.020 or more), then your pilot bearing is probably frozen as others have mentioned. This often makes it hard to remove the tranny.
