Clutch Pedal Adjustment

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 1, 2004
Threads
105
Messages
468
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Website
fj40bugcatcher.dyndns.org
Having an issue with the Clutch Pedal Adjustment on my 1962 FJ40. According to the Toyota manual the Pedal should be a 9.6 in from the firewall. Mine measures about 8.5 in. The adjusting rod into the master cylinder is almost backed all the way out. Has anyone else run into this before? By the way, my truck does have a sm420 transmission conversion on it.

Robert Furman

20260206_154835.webp
 
I like my clutch pedal set down a little because I'm a tall guy and I don't have a lot of room to work with down there. I adjusted my slave to work with my system.
 
I like my clutch pedal set down a little because I'm a tall guy and I don't have a lot of room to work with down there. I adjusted my slave to work with my system.
Thanks Charlie, one of my issues I was having was it didn't seem like I was getting enough travel when I would press the clutch. So I'm sort of looking at my options to correct this. My clutch parts are all new and everything has been adjusted according to the manual, so I'm trying to figure out why things are slightly different.
 
When you swapped in the tranny did you use all the original clutch pieces and parts or did you swap that as well?
 
Well it might make a difference what clutch parts you have. Master/slave/fork/throw out/disk/pressure plate all work better if they are one brand.

Make a new longer fork for the master adjustment if its not already bottoming out.


You might have two holes for the slave push rod, use the outer one for more travel.
 
I'm going to assume that I used the original parts.
You can check a few things without digging too far in; you can see from underneath if you have a diaphragm or 3 finger pressure plate, is the clutch fork cast or pressed, does the slave pushrod match the clutch fork...stuff like that
 
Im not familiar with a 62 model. This is from a fsm dated 74. They measure from a different location with different numbers. I run a sm420 with a sbc. I dont think the clutch parts in the bellhousing have anything to do with the pedall height adjustment, because you are adjusting the stroke of the master. My clutch parts are all Chevy, bellhousing, clutch, fork, t/o and pp. I adjust to the manual.
20220711_211038.webp
 
You can check a few things without digging too far in; you can see from underneath if you have a diaphragm or 3 finger pressure plate, is the clutch fork cast or pressed, does the slave pushrod match the clutch fork...stuff like that
3 finger pressure plate with a pressed fork. The pushrod seem to match as I recall. I'm not by my FJ40 at the moment.

20241011_154731.webp


20241011_154630.webp
 
Im not familiar with a 62 model. This is from a fsm dated 74. They measure from a different location with different numbers. I run a sm420 with a sbc. I dont think the clutch parts in the bellhousing have anything to do with the pedall height adjustment, because you are adjusting the stroke of the master. My clutch parts are all Chevy, bellhousing, clutch, fork, t/o and pp. I adjust to the manual.
View attachment 4082051
Thanks, here's a screenshot from the 1958-7/1970 Chassis and Body Manual.

Screenshot_20260204_172613_Adobe Acrobat.webp
 
In your 1st post you mention adjusting the rod, but the instructions says to adjust the pedal stopper.
 
In your 1st post you mention adjusting the rod, but the instructions says to adjust the pedal stopper.
The pedal stopper doesn't have enough adjustment to go any further and even if I did it would create more slop in the clutch pedal.
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions earlier, after revisiting some of the adjustments I realized I had a little bit more play in the brake stopper Bolt. After that bolt was backed off I was able to correctly adjust the ride going to the master cylinder.
 
Back
Top Bottom