Click click click click CRANK!
- Thread starter Sacred80
- Start date
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Fj80oregon
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Just keep clicking it will start
It goes click click click click click click vroom . . .
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Bad starter motor solenoid
Bad contacts in the starter solenoid
Bad ground connection somewhere
Bad +ve connection
Bad ignition switch
Weak battery
Bad starter motor solenoid
Bad contacts in the starter solenoid
Bad ground connection somewhere
Bad +ve connection
Bad ignition switch
Weak battery
- Thread starter
- #5
would the clicking sound indicate that it has a good ignition switch?
watching the lights dim to me indicates its drawing power into the solenoid but the plunger is not extending out to the ring gear
remove the starter and open up & clean the solenoid contact areas with contact cleaner / sand paper ( it will be evident if theyre worn out, if the case buy a refresh kit) as well as the plunger area and reassemble it with clean fresh grease (just a little bit) and then bench test before reinstalling
remove the starter and open up & clean the solenoid contact areas with contact cleaner / sand paper ( it will be evident if theyre worn out, if the case buy a refresh kit) as well as the plunger area and reassemble it with clean fresh grease (just a little bit) and then bench test before reinstalling
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Typical bad solenoid and plunger contacts.
Be warned that the plunger can weld itself to the contacts and keep the starter running until you disconnect the battery or the truck burns to the ground.
Be warned that the plunger can weld itself to the contacts and keep the starter running until you disconnect the battery or the truck burns to the ground.
@Sacred80 : What do you know about your starter, original, aftermarket rebuild ?? Miles on your 80?
"would the clicking sound indicate that it has a good ignition switch?"
So the engine cranks (starter turns normally) and the engine starts every time you push firmly inward with the ignition key while turning it??
Not saying this is the cause of your issue, but for reference regarding the ignition switch here's a link about cleaning up the contacts inside the ignition switch; there's a good link about broken ignition rods (also not your issue) that helps show how those components all work together.
IME the ignition switch can develop oxidation and carbon build up between the copper contacts inside the switch hoowever the ignition switch that was taken apart in the thread above was still working normally, the poster's OCD took over and he took the switch apart to see how it worked.
Agree with everyone above, the symptoms sound like a typical worn starter contacts and plunger in the solenoid (magnetic switch part of the starter)
so that's one of the first things to check.
The only part of the story that doesn't seem to fit is your statement that pushing the key firmly inward while turning fixes the issue??
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Don't mean to get you off tract (listen to the experts above), just added below for reference:
A couple photos of the ignition switch taken apart (from the thread above):
Copper contacts/plates showing oxidation, light burn marks, and old dried up grease. These contacts sit one on top of the other when in place over the black assembly (2nd photo):
The black assembly in the center of the ignition switch housing is what turns (with the contact plates) with the key/cylinder/ignition rod. Look closely for the 5 small springs (sticking upward in the photo) which press on the copper contact plates when assembled. Those copper contacts/plates slide over the round/button contacts shown in the bottom photo ie: as the assembly is turned from OFF-ACC-ON-START
This shows the (cleaned) contacts that the copper plates slide over as the key/ignition is turned through it's four positions:
Here's another related link where replacing the starter did not fix the issue:
"would the clicking sound indicate that it has a good ignition switch?"
So the engine cranks (starter turns normally) and the engine starts every time you push firmly inward with the ignition key while turning it??
Not saying this is the cause of your issue, but for reference regarding the ignition switch here's a link about cleaning up the contacts inside the ignition switch; there's a good link about broken ignition rods (also not your issue) that helps show how those components all work together.
This is something 80 owners may never have to do but as I had the panels off and had been working in that area (see Bilt4Me's "My Ignition Broke" thread) I decided to take a look at the guts of the actual ignition switch while it was still attached to the cowl harness.
Here's a link if you want to get acquainted with the ignition parts (lock cylinder, rod, upper bracket, ignition switch)
forum.ih8mud.com
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Servicing your ignition switch:
Short story: don't...
Here's a link if you want to get acquainted with the ignition parts (lock cylinder, rod, upper bracket, ignition switch)
My Ignition Broke!
I went to restart my 96 Land Cruiser (1FZ-FE) and the switch turned on, but it wouldn't start. The key flopped all the way to the right , but wouldn't return and there was no "spring" back from the start position. I noticed that my radio had power, my ABS light was on (because it's always on)...
forum.ih8mud.com
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Servicing your ignition switch:
Short story: don't...
IME the ignition switch can develop oxidation and carbon build up between the copper contacts inside the switch hoowever the ignition switch that was taken apart in the thread above was still working normally, the poster's OCD took over and he took the switch apart to see how it worked.
Agree with everyone above, the symptoms sound like a typical worn starter contacts and plunger in the solenoid (magnetic switch part of the starter)
so that's one of the first things to check.
The only part of the story that doesn't seem to fit is your statement that pushing the key firmly inward while turning fixes the issue??
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't mean to get you off tract (listen to the experts above), just added below for reference:
A couple photos of the ignition switch taken apart (from the thread above):
Copper contacts/plates showing oxidation, light burn marks, and old dried up grease. These contacts sit one on top of the other when in place over the black assembly (2nd photo):
The black assembly in the center of the ignition switch housing is what turns (with the contact plates) with the key/cylinder/ignition rod. Look closely for the 5 small springs (sticking upward in the photo) which press on the copper contact plates when assembled. Those copper contacts/plates slide over the round/button contacts shown in the bottom photo ie: as the assembly is turned from OFF-ACC-ON-START
This shows the (cleaned) contacts that the copper plates slide over as the key/ignition is turned through it's four positions:
Here's another related link where replacing the starter did not fix the issue:
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