check engine light

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Hmmm. I'm sure his leaks ;) but I don't remember anything about him trashing it. I'm suggesting that the round, whiteish, "brillo pad" type of filter is cleaned with compressed air. Don't blow air into any of the EGR modulator orifices.

-B-
 
EGR is the anthrax of the 80. This frickin crap just won't go away. I'm thinking I'm going to offer to fly Landtoy down here to fix it, but then again, I don't want to see his fugly face for more time than it would take to fix. :D :flipoff2: :D :D
 
Once again I pulled both fuses (dash and under hood) but it wouldn't
clear the CE light. Soooo...I went by a shop that had a reader.
Same code reading. The guy cleared the light. It stayed cleared
for the drive back to my office which is several miles. Upon starting
the beast for the trip home it came on again. Two trip logic for sure.
I'll clean the "filter" and the temp sensor carefully this weekend before
I spring for the replacement parts.
I'm crossing my fingers and saying the cruiser chant hoping for success.
Live and learn.
 
Gundy,
I didn't suggest throwing parts at it. My suggestion (following Rick's excellent advice) is to isolate the problem using the P0401 testing procedures in the FSM. I replaced $200 in parts before it went to the shop for the "real" fix (VSV for EGR) and another $250 for that repair. YMMV.

What fuse are you pulling? Why are you pulling a fuse in the dash? How long are you leaving the fuse out? I'm having a hard time believing that you are pulling the EFI fuse and it does not clear the MIL.

-B-
 
-B- I didn't think you said to throw parts at the thing. I understood your
advise to be for me to go at this in a systematic way. Good advise that I'll try to follow.
I don't know what to say about your disbelief. I pulled the EFI fuse from under the hood
the first time and left it out for 30 seconds or so. No clear. Pulled it again for 10 minutes.
No clear. I tried 30 minutes. No clear. Lastly I pulled the dash EFI fuse AND the under hood fuse for 30 minutes. No clear. I don't know what else to say. I'm not pulling
the battery because I don't want to re-set everything else. I'm not pulling your leg either. I really appreciate your help. It did clear when the shop guy hit the magic button.
I'll take a polygraph on the fuse pulling and anything I post.
Again, thanks for your and everyone's help. I'm such a newbie it's embarrassing.
I remain,
David of Pumpkintown
 
Fly!!! They don't let my kind fly :o

G-dude, you are going to have to unhook the battery if pulling the EFI fuse doesn't clear it.
If the light doesn't go off with the EFI fuse, then what ever sends a signal to ECU (VSV maybe ???) is sticking or stuck. Your newer EGR system might have more sensors than mine.

The EGR valve could be stuck or the VSV is bad.
When you pull the modulator off, is there carbon under the filter?
 
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=9634;start=msg86259#msg86259 date=1073504997]
Fly!!! They don't let my kind fly :o

[/quote]


Too much metal?..............
 
Thanks Landtoy Dude! I just pulled the modulator cap off and
lo and behold there was a tiny little spot of carbon on the filter.
No carbon in the bottom of the unit. Tip: don't drop that little filter
'cause it's a bitch to retrieve from down the side of the engine. ;)
I removed the + cable from the battery and it cleared the CE light.
Tip: disarm the alarm system first 'cause it ain't gonna crank when you
hook the battery back up. It will however flash and blow the horn till
you get the fob and turn that sucker off. The alarm wasn't "on"
when I pulled the battery cable but it was enabled. ;)
I've started the truck a couple of times and the CEL appears
no more.
Time will tell if that has done the trick.
The wife says you are a genius. :cheers:
Ohm....cruiser,cruiser,cruiser.....Ohm
I remain in awe,
 
With the carbon under the filter I bet you need a new modulator.
There is a new modulator ( its the old fj60 modulator) that replaced the 80 modulator.
It is not that much $$$.
I replace mine and its code free.
 
>> I've started the truck a couple of times and the CEL appears no more.<<

It's a two trip (ie drive cycle) logic; not 2 starts.

-B-
 
If Orange Light rears it's ugly head again the current modulator is
going to the dump. If it then rears it hydra like head again....
well, I'll just keep working at killing this mythical monster.
I'll de-smog the sucker before I give in. Hell, I'll go 350
grate and call it a day. Just kidding. I'm an F'er forever.
Glad to hear you got off light! I'm never that lucky.
Again, thanks for your and everyone's help.
We LOVE the 80. It's a keeper. :cheers:
 
David,

>> advise to be for me to go at this in a systematic way. Good advise that I'll try to follow. <<
................and...............
>> If Orange Light rears it's ugly head again the current modulator is going to the dump. <<

Sorry, but this is not a systematic approach. Get the FSM, do the modulator tests outlined in the manual, *then* toss it if it fails the tests, not if the MIL reappears.

My last post in this thread.
-B-
 
A heartfelt thank you to this forum. After cleaning the "spot" of
carbon off the EGR modulator and clearing the check engine light
all appears well. Today we drove to work which is several miles
away and the wife made several errand runs during the day. We drove home
after work. No repeat of the check engine light.
I know I've let this topic go on and on, but I just wanted to say
thanks to all for your help. I'm still getting the FSMs and a scanner
to prevent me from boring ya'll to tears in the future when that
light rears it's head again. Live and learn.
No need to respond. :cheers:
David of Pumpkintown
72 fj40, 83 fj60 & 96 fzj80
 
Sooooooo, that's what they looked like when they were new. :D

-B-
 
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