Charging Woes '85 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

2mbb

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I was on a big adventure last weekend with the FJ60 (going to the dump) and I noticed that the voltage meter was reading low (below 12V around 10V I guess). As typical the voltage dips when the turn indicators were on, so I suppose the meter is OK. There was no charge light, though. But I did stop, shut off the engine and turned the key to run, without starting the engine. Still no charge light, so maybe the bulb is bad.

I ran through the trouble shooting from the 2F engine manual: Charge fuse seems OK. I do have battery voltage through the harness to the green connector. At terminal L, I read more than 2V, almost battery voltage. I have continuity across terminals L and F on the alternator with the key off. With the regulator installed on the alternator there is contiunity. with the regulator removed there is NO continuity at the regulator but there is continuity on the alternator. I believe this indicates the regulator is bad.

This is a replacement (rebuilt) alternator that I got at a local parts place probably 15 to 20 years ago. I remember I had to have it clocked because the regulator was in the wrong position.

I guess I'm looking for confirmation and suggestions how to proceed. I see @ToyotaMatt has some NOS IC regulator(s), but should I also consider replacing the alternator--either getting some NOS bling or go with another rebuild. We just moved into a new house and haven't sold the old one yet, so I'm not in a position to spend too much (without feeling guilty :().

Thanks!

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ToyotaMatt

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I was on a big adventure last weekend with the FJ60 (going to the dump) and I noticed that the voltage meter was reading low (below 12V around 10V I guess). As typical the voltage dips when the turn indicators were on, so I suppose the meter is OK. There was no charge light, though. But I did stop, shut off the engine and turned the key to run, without starting the engine. Still no charge light, so maybe the bulb is bad.

I ran through the trouble shooting from the 2F engine manual: Charge fuse seems OK. I do have battery voltage through the harness to the green connector. At terminal L, I read more than 2V, almost battery voltage. I have continuity across terminals L and F on the alternator with the key off. With the regulator installed on the alternator there is contiunity. with the regulator removed there is NO continuity at the regulator but there is continuity on the alternator. I believe this indicates the regulator is bad.

This is a replacement (rebuilt) alternator that I got at a local parts place probably 15 to 20 years ago. I remember I had to have it clocked because the regulator was in the wrong position.

I guess I'm looking for confirmation and suggestions how to proceed. I see @ToyotaMatt has some NOS IC regulator(s), but should I also consider replacing the alternator--either getting some NOS bling or go with another rebuild. We just moved into a new house and haven't sold the old one yet, so I'm not in a position to spend too much (without feeling guilty :().

Thanks!

View attachment 2982637



i curranty have 2 options for u to consider :

- i have ready to plug and play NOS bench tested too , non-oil cooler equipped option units , IC reg is located in the 10am location ,

u will need to run a tad longer cogged oem drive belt in this
application , to keep the IC box away from your OIL cooler line if u have a oil cooler option at all ?

only difference from :




: i ONLY have BOXES and BOXES of NOS Genuine NipponDenso Parts and some Toyota oem part too to hand build any OIL COOLER equipped option

2PM IC regulator location NOS units to be




note : the holidays cleaned me complexly bone dry of all oil cooler option 2PM reg


if you request the OIL cooler 2PM NOS unit ?


i have a 3 week solid LEED time before i can ship ...................fyi
 

RDub

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If you suspect your integrated voltage regulator is bad there are several aftermarket options available (flame suit on). I replaced mine with a unit I bought from Rock Auto and it's worked fine for two years now. I think NAPA also sells one. OEM would be best, but at the time I took what I could get, and the price was reasonable. There are many reasons the volt meter in the cluster reads wonky, though, so run that down as best you can first.
 

OSS

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Always suspect the original gauges.
I’d hook up a hand held digital volt meter to the battery while the engine is running to verify voltage.
Then with engine still running I’d turn on the headlights and cabin fan on full to put a big draw on it and see what the voltmeter reads.

A good alternator will keep the voltage near 14V or higher even with all the accessories running if the battery is charged.
 

ToyotaMatt

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If you suspect your integrated voltage regulator is bad there are several aftermarket options available (flame suit on). I replaced mine with a unit I bought from Rock Auto and it's worked fine for two years now. I think NAPA also sells one. OEM would be best, but at the time I took what I could get, and the price was reasonable. There are many reasons the volt meter in the cluster reads wonky, though, so run that down as best you can first.
Always suspect the original gauges.
I’d hook up a hand held digital volt meter to the battery while the engine is running to verify voltage.
Then with engine still running I’d turn on the headlights and cabin fan on full to put a big draw on it and see what the voltmeter reads.

A good alternator will keep the voltage near 14V or higher even with all the accessories running.



i have a 5 gallon sealed bucket in climate control of these :




i am less then the dealer's cheezy reman ones if they still offer them ?


USA crap made in Detroit !







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2mbb

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I'm pretty sure I did check my battery voltage with a multimeter when the truck was idling and it was 12V or less. But I'll check it again. I think I have some sort of induction amp meter I might be able to use too...but it's raining today (in SF Bay Area which is very unusual) and my garage is in complete disarray because I'm still in the process of unpacking and organizing in the new place.

I did purchase a NOS regulator as shown above. Thanks @ToyotaMatt !
 

ToyotaMatt

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I'm pretty sure I did check my battery voltage with a multimeter when the truck was idling and it was 12V or less. But I'll check it again. I think I have some sort of induction amp meter I might be able to use too...but it's raining today (in SF Bay Area which is very unusual) and my garage is in complete disarray because I'm still in the process of unpacking and organizing in the new place.

I did purchase a NOS regulator as shown above. Thanks @ToyotaMatt !


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CruiserTrash

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Always suspect the original gauges.
I’d hook up a hand held digital volt meter to the battery while the engine is running to verify voltage.
Then with engine still running I’d turn on the headlights and cabin fan on full to put a big draw on it and see what the voltmeter reads.

A good alternator will keep the voltage near 14V or higher even with all the accessories running if the battery is charged.
I’ve always been curious about this. I have a voltmeter in the cabin that has always been pretty accurate versus a DMM testing in-cabin voltage, and I keep an eye on it when safe to do so.

Last fall I had a small old school Denso-specialty shop rebuild my alternator, and I waited to install until a few days later when I bought a new battery - plopped them both in at once. On cold start ups my voltage will be 14.0-14.2 until the truck warms up. After that it typically drops to 13.7 when warm. Any accessories drop the voltage incrementally, so if I’m running headlights, wipers, both HVAC fans, rear wiper, and rear defrost … I’ll be at 12.0-12.2V. Of course using all that is rare but it happens on snowy nights sometimes.

I have put in large-gauge engine bay ground cables (battery to body, block to body, head to body), I installed a 4awg cable from alternator to battery with an 80A MIDI fuse in-line, and I’ve cleaned every other small ground I can find - driver’s kick panel, underneath the tailgate, and there’s another I did but can’t recall right now.

You’re saying I should be above 14 all the time even with some accessories going?
 

OSS

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When I got a rebuilt alternator installed from an alternator shop that’s been doing this kind of work for 30 years - the voltage never dropped below 14 volts even with dual 80 watt halogen headlights on at idle.
My old alternator dropped voltage.

With this new alternator, when the engine was idling at 700 RPMs, when I’d flip on the headlights at idle, the engine speed would noticeably drop as the alternator flipped on.
Voltage remained at 14.1V (cold).

I think 13.8V is acceptable for a hot engine and alternator with everything running, but below 13.5V definitely not. Alternator ain’t working as it should.

The Toyota manual specifies the minimum output voltage the alternator should put out to be within acceptable limits.
 

CruiserTrash

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When I got a rebuilt alternator installed from an alternator shop that’s been doing this kind of work for 30 years - the voltage never dropped below 14 volts even with dual 80 watt halogen headlights on at idle.
My old alternator dropped voltage.

With this new alternator, when the engine was idling at 700 RPMs, when I’d flip on the headlights at idle, the engine speed would noticeably drop as the alternator flipped on.
Voltage remained at 14.1V (cold).

I think 13.8V is acceptable for a hot engine and alternator with everything running, but below 13.5V definitely not. Alternator ain’t working as it should.

The Toyota manual specifies the minimum output voltage the alternator should put out to be within acceptable limits.
Twist: I took two core alternators to the guy in a box not realizing one was from a 62. He noticed right away - “oh hey, the regulator is clocked of here, that’s from a 62 isnt’t it? Those are 65A.” Dude knew exactly all the same minutia I’ve read here on Mud. So what did he suggest? “Why don’t we stick the higher current guts into the 2F alternator housing?” He knew the different regulator location would interfere. It made me trust the guy that he’s obviously worked on a zillion of the these.

So I have a 65A alt inside of the 55A case. New regulator and all that. Nicely painted.

So why my voltage drop I wonder? All this measuring is in-can, so perhaps the main 12V feed wire is just corroded and giving a higher resistance? I’ve been round and round with this.
 

CruiserTrash

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@2mbb sorry to threadjack. I feel like I’m notorious for that, and I feel like I can’t help it - I always have so many questions to puzzle out.

@OSS we can take this elsewhere … if you have the time.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Got the NOS voltage regulator from @ToyotaMatt (thank you!)and installed it today. Charging voltage at idle is now up to 13.9V. That is a success! Thanks to all!






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