Charging/Brake warning lights on..

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Threads
283
Messages
2,381
Location
Louisville, KY
HI all.

This is odd.

I am getting intermittent warning lights. Here are the facts (which seem odd).

1- BOTH lights come on/off at the same time. They even flicker at the same time in the same frequency as if they are one light/warning.
2- Only happen at start up AND when very cold.
3- Goes away if the motor is run past 3k rpm
4- I checked the brake reservoir and moved the the sensor switch up and down (no change) and I am not leaking anywhere.
5- Didnt check the charging system but I have 0 voltage draining AND the battery is new.
6- Goes away, ALWAYS, after about 20 minutes of driving.
7- Does NOT ALWAYS do it. For example, this morning, 4 degrees and no issues.

I could understand one light but both? At the same time? Flickering at the same pulse?

Very odd.

And no, this did not start after I did the wiper mod LOL!!!
 
Prolly something in the voltage system. A buddy of mine just had this happening to him, but the opposite (i.e. high rpms, warm temp, etc) and it was his voltage regulator. HTH. :cheers:
 
OK. Looked through a LOT of posts on YotaTech about this exact same issue. Most all pointed to bad or failing alternator brushes.

Have you all replaced brushes before?

Damn it is cold here. Not what I had in mind to do.
 
It's worth a shot......when my alt went out in my '85 mini, I didn't notice anything wrong until my lights were dimming........

I shut off the stereo, headlights, etc, and made it home on backroads. Sure glad it was a 22R! :cheers:
 
Yeah, I am pretty sure it is the alt. When the warning lights come on, I notice that the voltmeter is only registering about 11-12v.

Strange thing, it is intermittent. Thankfully I guess.

I ordered some new brushes at Toyota. 18.00 BUT they dont carry them in stock. First, I was told that they dont make such a part LOL!!!

Anyhoo, so I am having to rent a car this weekend to travel. Oh joy.
 
Yes 22re.

So, would you remove from the bottom?

Most of thr articles say from the top and remove the Dist cap.

It would be nice to get it from the bottom if that can be done.

Thx
 
ive changed a few( first one lasted a month) in the parking lot at the part store cuz i was stupid and lazy and didnt rebuild the one in the truck.

it doesnt take long at all, remove the hardware and wire. the alternator will drop right out the bottom.

12mm wrench for the top adjuster bolt. 14mm and a 15mm for the pivot bolt.

i cant remember, its either a 10mm or just a plug on electrical connector.

During the rebuild, the armature may need to be turned( resurfaced ), from the brushs causing wear.

after the rebuild, bolt it in loose, use the biggest screw driver or pry bar u can fit in between the bottom of alternator and coolent pipe to get the belt tighter than any belt you have tighten before (belt squeals with normal tension)
 
Well, since it has warmed up to 30 degrees, no warning lights. The part came in but I am going to wait until they just stay on-hopefully in the spring.
 
Nah, it will wait till it's -20 again, and totally quit. Then you'll really be screwed. I would fix it now if it were me.

Use Jerod's trick: unbolt the stiff part of the lower rad hose from the engine mount, move it out of the way, the alt will come right out thru the bottom.
 
LOL.

Yeah, you're right. I was trying to find ways to avoid doing it out in the cold. Not having a garage now sucks.
 
Back
Top Bottom