Changing Instrument Clusters

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My Understanding of the 50a AMP meter in the New -60180 is its " Fundamentally " Simply a 12v Volts Meter ...?

Next........:poof:

You seem correct. The 50 Amp meter is basically measuring the voltage across the fusible link. I suppose they used the ratio to assume the more voltage , the more current draw. It is not really a CURRENT meter.
 
These are New Correctly Color Coded OEM Tracer Stripe Leeds / Wires & Connectors on a 83100-60180

- Note : The NON USA Solid Green Leed in #12 stamped barrel cavity is Substituted For The USA spec Red W/ black tracer stripe Pilot meter Leed that comes From the head lamp switch Dimmer / Rheostat Interior Illumination Circuit B+ Feed To The Cluster Meter Barrel #12 stamped terminal location

- Your new 50a AMP 3 bay connector to your left is 83100-60180 non usa correct ,

- make darn double sure U have very very good ground circuit connections on both the White w/ black tracer stripe Leeds...
going to 60180 ,

- Welcome & Good Luck ....! ;)


View attachment 1513902 View attachment 1513903 View attachment 1513904 View attachment 1513905
Good lord that's sweet looking. Where did you get that prize at? I have a May of 1980 I am rebuilding. I have a nice cluster but thing is gorgeous.
 
Houston (or Jerryvi) we have a problem!
For more info click here: -► Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Your "old" cluster is a pre 1980 model in Miles, with a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and a 30-0-30 Ammeter.
Your "new" cluster is a 1980 and later model in Kilometers, No VSS and a 50-0-50 Ammeter.
The High Beam indicator circuit is a little bit different hooked up.
- Miles vs Km is not the biggest problem.
- Yes or no VSS can be a problem because you may need that VSS signal for your desmog circuit.
- The High Beam indicator circuit can easily corrected.
- The Ammeter circuit is your biggest problem.
On your old cluster the total current of all circuits goes through the Ammeter (the 2 studs on the back).
View attachment 1513875

In the new cluster the total current A goes through a fusible link and only a portion B goes trough the Ammeter (the 2 horizontal tabs of the 3 prong connector). The vertical tab is ground for the High Beam indicator light.
View attachment 1513877

This is not easy to solve because you don't have the (special) fusible link, fuse box and wiring in your truck.
The easiest way is to return the cluster and buy the correct one.

Rudi



Rudi: Can you explain what needs to be done to make tde High Beam Indicator work? Do you only need to ground the vertical Prong left side next to , or is there something more that needs to be done to make it work?
 
Rudi: Can you explain what needs to be done to make tde High Beam Indicator work? Do you only need to ground the vertical Prong left side next to , or is there something more that needs to be done to make it work?

See picture:
79_FJ40 3prong-amp-high-beam-ground wire.webp


Rudi
 
@rstoddard to follow up on your question to @bj40green, did you wire it as shown above in post #25? If you trace the blue on what looks like a circuit board on back of cluster, it goes to the RY wire on my barrel connector from a 1975 FJ40 wiring harness. I simply connected a brass ring terminal and a 6.3mm on the other side as shown. (I will be using three pin connector to provide leads for 50AMP wiring). Is this the right way to wire the 83100-60180 to get the high beam indicator light to work? Or, do I need to wire this into the harness side?

32D88BFF-32AF-4096-89CC-0AD32CA10A44.jpeg
 
@rstoddard to follow up on your question to @bj40green, did you wire it as shown above in post #25? If you trace the blue on what looks like a circuit board on back of cluster, it goes to the RY wire on my barrel connector from a 1975 FJ40 wiring harness. I simply connected a brass ring terminal and a 6.3mm on the other side as shown. (I will be using three pin connector to provide leads for 50AMP wiring). Is this the right way to wire the 83100-60180 to get the high beam indicator light to work? Or, do I need to wire this into the harness side?

View attachment 2242198


if u use this Jumper idea your robbing the neg- from the barrel connetcor

it'd a stand alone fed ground for a reason , or actually more then one reason



this is ill advised im my opinion , why not simply hook it up the factory way and method ?

it will be faster in the long run to precede by the book .........

also you will not a Fully Polarized cluster and LED Bulbs will not function as they can or should ..........
 
Thanks to @ToyotaMatt, I now have the correct set up for my 50AMP ammeter. While I’m not wiring into harness using the two 5 AMP fuses and fuseable link today, I’m ready to easily add this down the road. As shown below, the pig tail provided by VintageTeqParts. VintageTEqParts.com
Installed and spliced into common ground and then routed to front passenger side cowl.

9FD596D2-ECCF-4E40-8FD8-6C4B65F22F5F.webp


C6E8F414-488F-4786-B244-59EE195BA12D.webp


A0234F5B-8F19-45B8-B911-2178F11A8E81.webp


BF03E25B-C59B-445D-8031-3FC5F87A6735.webp
 
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