Changing Instrument Clusters

[Jerryvi]

I have a 1978 FJ40. The original cluster was faded and odometer didn't work. I purchased an OEM cluster with the part # 83100-60180. My questions are: Do I need to terminate the leads to the ammeter which previously landed on the gauge posts to the vertical tabs on the new meter?

There is mention on some of the threads about the bright headlight indicator being fed by that "three prong" connector which mine does not have. Will my bright headlight indicator work without the three prong connector or will some new wiring have to be performed?

I read many of the posts and greatly appreciate the technical expertise that is shared.

 

[Poser]

Welcome.

Part number is great, but pictures rule the day.

Post up pictures of your old cluster and the new one and we will then all know what you have and what needs to happen to get the results you wish for.

 

[Jerryvi]

Thanks for the tip. I will have to remove the new one, photo it and attach that. It will take me a little bit to do it.

 

[Jerryvi]

Here are some photos of the new one and the old one.

 

[Jerryvi]

Here is the back of the new one.

 

[Living in the Past]

Old one went to 100 new one go to 160. Think your going to be reading in KM not miles.

 

[Jerryvi]

That's not a problem for me. The connection for the ammeter being an upright lug is what I am curious about. I attached the ammeter wires to the two terminals that connect to the back of the gauge as on the old unit. Don't know if that will affect anything other than the headlight indicator light.

 

[tlc762]

Search for the gauge cluster thread by Rudi aka @bj40green . It will answer all of your questions and lots you haven't thought of yet...
Your new cluster is the 50amp ammeter type not the 30 amp ammeter type- there were changes to the wiring harness (two fuses to act as a shunt harness if i recall correctly) to make the 50amp meter work. It is all explained in that thread in great detail. Hopefully Rudi will get the alert and chime in to give you the simple answer.
HTH,
Will

 

[Jerryvi]

Search for the gauge cluster thread by Rudi aka @bj40green . It will answer all of your questions and lots you haven't thought of yet...
Your new cluster is the 50amp ammeter type not the 30 amp ammeter type- there were changes to the wiring harness (two fuses to act as a shunt harness if i recall correctly) to make the 50amp meter work. It is all explained in that thread in great detail. Hopefully Rudi will get the alert and chime in to give you the simple answer.
HTH,
Will

Thanks. I looked at a lot of posts that he provided info on. Thanks for the direction.

 

[bj40green]

Houston (or Jerryvi) we have a problem!
For more info click here: -► Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Your "old" cluster is a pre 1980 model in Miles, with a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and a 30-0-30 Ammeter.
Your "new" cluster is a 1980 and later model in Kilometers, No VSS and a 50-0-50 Ammeter.
The High Beam indicator circuit is a little bit different hooked up.
- Miles vs Km is not the biggest problem.
- Yes or no VSS can be a problem because you may need that VSS signal for your desmog circuit.
- The High Beam indicator circuit can easily corrected.
- The Ammeter circuit is your biggest problem.
On your old cluster the total current of all circuits goes through the Ammeter (the 2 studs on the back).

In the new cluster the total current A goes through a fusible link and only a portion B goes trough the Ammeter (the 2 horizontal tabs of the 3 prong connector). The vertical tab is ground for the High Beam indicator light.

This is not easy to solve because you don't have the (special) fusible link, fuse box and wiring in your truck.
The easiest way is to return the cluster and buy the correct one.

Rudi

 

[Racer65]

There is only one type of cluster you can still buy new, and that is the one he bought. I thought the ammeter had a design flaw and never worked anyway?

 

[bj40green]

There is only one type of cluster you can still buy new, and that is the one he bought. I thought the ammeter had a design flaw and never worked anyway?

There is a solution for that. Changing the value of the Fusible Link. It's in my: Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters write up.

Rudi

 

[1969FJ]

There is a solution for that. Changing the value of the Fusible Link. It's in my: Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters write up.

Rudi

Curiosity, is the value of the fusible link in OHMS ? Or, is it calculated for power, current overtime ?

 

[1969FJ]

Houston (or Jerryvi) we have a problem!
For more info click here: -► Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Your "old" cluster is a pre 1980 model in Miles, with a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and a 30-0-30 Ammeter.
Your "new" cluster is a 1980 and later model in Kilometers, No VSS and a 50-0-50 Ammeter.
The High Beam indicator circuit is a little bit different hooked up.
- Miles vs Km is not the biggest problem.
- Yes or no VSS can be a problem because you may need that VSS signal for your desmog circuit.
- The High Beam indicator circuit can easily corrected.
- The Ammeter circuit is your biggest problem.
On your old cluster the total current of all circuits goes through the Ammeter (the 2 studs on the back).
View attachment 1513875

In the new cluster the total current A goes through a fusible link and only a portion B goes trough the Ammeter (the 2 horizontal tabs of the 3 prong connector). The vertical tab is ground for the High Beam indicator light.
View attachment 1513877

This is not easy to solve because you don't have the (special) fusible link, fuse box and wiring in your truck.
The easiest way is to return the cluster and buy the correct one.

Rudi

Is it me or is this circuit , actually measuring voltage and not current ? True current is a series thing .

 

[ToyotaMatt]

These are New Correctly Color Coded OEM Tracer Stripe Leeds / Wires & Connectors on a 83100-60180

- Note : The NON USA Solid Green Leed in #12 stamped barrel cavity is Substituted For The USA spec Red W/ black tracer stripe Pilot meter Leed that comes From the head lamp switch Dimmer / Rheostat Interior Illumination Circuit B+ Feed To The Cluster Meter Barrel #12 stamped terminal location

- Your new 50a AMP 3 bay connector to your left is 83100-60180 non usa correct ,

- make darn double sure U have very very good ground circuit connections on both the White w/ black tracer stripe Leeds...
going to 60180 ,

- Welcome & Good Luck ....!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

There is only one type of cluster you can still buy new, and that is the one he bought. I thought the ammeter had a design flaw and never worked anyway?

My Understanding of the 50a AMP meter in the New -60180 is its " Fundamentally " Simply a 12v Volts Meter ...?

Next........

 

[65swb45]

I still have an NOS cluster for the earlier models available.

 

[Jerryvi]

I still have an NOS cluster for the earlier models available.

I left a message for you concerning the NOS clusters.

 

[Jerryvi]

Houston (or Jerryvi) we have a problem!
For more info click here: -► Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Your "old" cluster is a pre 1980 model in Miles, with a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and a 30-0-30 Ammeter.
Your "new" cluster is a 1980 and later model in Kilometers, No VSS and a 50-0-50 Ammeter.
The High Beam indicator circuit is a little bit different hooked up.
- Miles vs Km is not the biggest problem.
- Yes or no VSS can be a problem because you may need that VSS signal for your desmog circuit.
- The High Beam indicator circuit can easily corrected.
- The Ammeter circuit is your biggest problem.
On your old cluster the total current of all circuits goes through the Ammeter (the 2 studs on the back).
View attachment 1513875

In the new cluster the total current A goes through a fusible link and only a portion B goes trough the Ammeter (the 2 horizontal tabs of the 3 prong connector). The vertical tab is ground for the High Beam indicator light.
View attachment 1513877

This is not easy to solve because you don't have the (special) fusible link, fuse box and wiring in your truck.
The easiest way is to return the cluster and buy the correct one.

Rudi

Thanks for all the info! I had checked the thread you had created, but was still a little confused. You have provided me with valuable info and I appreciate it. I did find that with the post 1980 cluster installed, the wiring would not allow the starter to work. I put the old cluster back in and the starter now works. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Jerryvi]

Special thanks to all of you who helped me sort through this issue. I will now check the threads prior to purchasing parts for my 1978 FJ40.
Thanks again and have a great day.