Changing expansion valve

[Rusty Marlin]

this is available at autozone locally. What is ICE32? Is this acceptable or should I be looking for pure PAG46?

After Googling "ICE32 additive", it sounds like a good thing, actually.

 

[flintknapper]

this is available at autozone locally. What is ICE32? Is this acceptable or should I be looking for pure PAG46?


View attachment 2265016
After Googling "ICE32 additive", it sounds like a good thing, actually.

Snake Oil mostly....,but won't hurt anything if that's what you want to use. Just start with fresh PAG46 in what ever form.

 

[Cruzerman]

I like either adding PAG oil that comes with florescent dye or adding just dye if it isn't in the PAG. If it leaks in the future, it will help in finding the leak.

 

[baldilocks]

And with it the drier/accumulator.
Should I also change the evaporator, compressor and condenser while "in there".
From Rock Auto total system parts are around $450.
The compressor, expansion valve and drier are Four Seasons, the two coils are Denso OE parts.

Any one have experience with Four Seasons components?

Back in 2016 I bought an entire system from Rock Auto. I went with the 4 seasons compressor and haven’t had any problems with any of these parts.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Are the bolts that hold the manifold fittings anything special?
The low pressure side bolt was rusted and fused to the compressor, the head snapped off. Grrrrrr
Is a hardware store SST 6mm bolt good enough?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Well, right there's your problem...Pic to follow.
The system is so full of UV dye it looks like I slaughtered a movie alien. Holy crap, what a mess.
The drier is kaput and the and desiccant bag is ruptured, media is plugging the expansion valve and the liquid line. When I blew out the liquid line between the condenser and the fire wall it built up pressure and POPPED! clear. Luckily I had it pointed away from the truck, sounded like shotgun pellets going out through the trees. LOL
I'll pull the drier next and blow out the line between the evaporator and the drier.

Cruzerman, I don't think there will be a need to add any dye, there will be enough left in the condenser to handle future needs.

The system's been opened "recently", there is very little detritus on the input side of the condenser, and I can see through all its fins.
I'm changing it anyway, the new one is on the bench.

 

[flintknapper]

Well, right there's your problem...Pic to follow.
The system is so full of UV dye it looks like I slaughtered a movie alien. Holy crap, what a mess.
The drier is kaput and the and desiccant bag is ruptured, media is plugging the expansion valve and the liquid line. When I blew out the liquid line between the condenser and the fire wall it built up pressure and POPPED! clear. Luckily I had it pointed away from the truck, sounded like shotgun pellets going out through the trees. LOL
I'll pull the drier next and blow out the line between the evaporator and the drier.

Cruzerman, I don't think there will be a need to add any dye, there will be enough left in the condenser to handle future needs.

The system's been opened "recently", there is very little detritus on the input side of the condenser, and I can see through all its fins.
I'm changing it anyway, the new one is on the bench.

Exactly why I don't recommend ANY additives (dyes, sealants or anything other than the correct oil and refrigerant). Any significant leaks will be visually apparent or can be found with a sniffer. Minor leaks are not worth chasing down (just top off refrigerant every couple of seasons).

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I have broken off more bolts with this job than any other on the rig. The only one that is a PIA is for the low pressure line at the compressor top cap.
The others have been on throw-away parts (luckily).
I'll have to get serious with it and drill it out and re-tap.

 

[Cruzerman]

Exactly why I don't recommend ANY additives (dyes, sealants or anything other than the correct oil and refrigerant). Any significant leaks will be visually apparent or can be found with a sniffer. Minor leaks are not worth chasing down (just top off refrigerant every couple of seasons).

I get the pag oil with the dye in it. I don't think it adds any liability in itself. And I have a UV light. I don't have a sniffer. JMHO.

 

[flintknapper]

I get the pag oil with the dye in it. I don't think it adds any liability in itself. And I have a UV light. I don't have a sniffer. JMHO.

Probably safe enough, since the dye used 'should' be compatible with both the oil and refrigerant. An issue can occur when technicians or unwitting DIYers use a dye that is not Co-Solvent free. So be certain what you are putting in there. For instance Dyes containing the Co-Solvent 'Aromatic 200' can affect the Viscosity and Lubricity of the refrigerant oil.

Additionally, if YOU are not the only person to have worked on the system, over the years there is no telling how much of an additive has been introduced to the system or what it was. UV dyes have their place (and limitations) but their chemical properties might not play well with other additives that could be in the system. Just be aware.

Most 'line of sight' leaks (if significant) are easily discovered by the oil residue left behind. Leaks that are hidden (evaporator) are not easily found using dyes unless you happen to note some dripping from the drain line or pull the air box apart at which point you might as well replace it.

Front seals on the compressor are the best candidate for UV dye detection IMO. Anyplace there is an O-Ring or connection of any kind, "Nylog' should be used and you won't have a leak there...period. So that leaves lines and components. If you choose to use a dye product...just make sure its compatible with everything in your system.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Evaporator: 40 cc (1.4 fl.oz.)
Receiver: 10 cc (0.35 fl.oz.)
Condenser: 40 cc (1.4 fl.oz.)

When draining a new compressor you won't get every bit of it out...but there isn't much you can do about that. I don't like to use the oil shipped in the compressor, but prefer to start with a new bottle of PAG46. So in your situation...drain as much oil from the compressor as you can. Add 1.5 oz to your Evaporator, Add .5 oz to the new Drier, Add 1 oz. to your condenser (just so we'll be sure) and then Add 4 ozs. to new compressor. You should be fine.

I drained the old one and got 30ml of oil, that's close enough to 1oz not to worry about it.
The new compressor yielded 130ml (4.4 oz).
The dryer is bone dry, the media shakes like a maraca.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

IT'S WORKING!
Its about 5 oz short on the weighted charge, the third can I bought has a defective valve and won't discharge.
So 24 of 29 oz loaded.
I'll exchange the bad can tomorrow and top it off.
But its working. YEAH ME!

 

[HHR137]

Just curious if someone in here with more knowledge than me can help me out.

Couple weeks back I took it to get a recharge because it wasn’t blowing cold. Figured it was just needing a recharge since I recently purchased it and had no clue when it was last done. They told me that it wasn’t leaking but my low pressure line was freezing over when they would run the AC. They said it was either a clogged line or expansion valve.

I took it the following week to a Toyota dealer in my area. They had it for several days and couldn’t find the issue. The low pressure line was still freezing over.

I’ve decided to try and fix it myself. I replaced the expansion valve today. Since taking it to both places I never had the system evacuated. Today when I disconnected the AC lines where they meet the evaporator at the firewall, there was no hissing sound. Just the UV dye leaking out. This makes me think that my system was already empty meaning I have a leak somewhere.

I pulled the evaporator and cleaned it as well as replaced the expansion valve. I am planning to get it recharged. If anybody has any thoughts please let me know.