Centered rear output to offset diff?

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mookie

mookie

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is anyone doing this? i am getting ready to put a TH400/atlas combo in my rig with a centered rear output. i have every intention of going to a 14bolt or ford 9' rearend eventually but i am hoping i can get away with my FJ60 offset diff rearend for a year or so. my rear driveshaft is made from a '85 minitruck CV front d-shaft and is pretty long around 36" iirc (114" wheelbase). will i need a cv on each end to keep vibs down at speed or what?

what say you experts? try it or just fuhgeddaboudit?
 
As long as the combined angle does not bind you are fine
 
I have centered rear with offset output from the yota case, angles looke fine and I have driven it but not wheeled it yet. I dont think it will be an issue on my rig. My rear shaft does NOT run a CV and is 40" long from yota output to 14B spicer 1350 yoke
 
No problem
 
I have the opposite....center rear axle to offset t-case. It has been this way since 2008. I don't have a CV drive shaft. Not a single problem yet. The truck is pretty much a trailer queen though, never had it much above 50mph.

Eentually I will change out the t-case and not have an offset rear shaft anymore.
 
My first FJ60 had a complete Chevy drivetrain in it minus axles. I tried 3 different configuration driveshafts, all new, and none of them worked flawlessly. I ended up centering the diff in the housing and having custom axles made. I am picky and I could get the truck to have very little vibes with a DC shaft, but only at lower speeds(under50).
 
Offset t-case (Orion HD) to partially centered 14 bolt (short shaft on passenger side) with the same 85 mini-truck CV shaft. Runs decent up to 70 mph (don't go much faster than that with 39's) - tons of abuse in the rocks (bad driver and skinny pedal) and has held up for well over a year.

Still makes me nervous - constantly checking it - the only thing thus far is the bolts working lose on the pinion flange a couple of times, but I think that's mostly due to using the Toyota adapter on the 14 bolt. I still carry a spare shaft and new u-joints on the trailer just in case.

EDIT - actually, come to think of it - had to replace the pinion flange bolts during a week long wheeling trip last year - but still think it's the flange and not the offset driveshaft.

Go for it. :D
 
I'm wondering of the issue too.
Now I have stock RHS output on the TC on my 40 and running 60-series rear axle with RHS diff offset.
One of the options I'm considering is swapping engine, transmission and TC with Tacoma one which have center TC output. I build my 60-series axle and don't want to loose all that money.
Can I run center TC to offset diff without an issue? No CV shaft. CV help when you have both at the same plane, but different level; here there is 2 planes to work on on moves the shaft sideways due to offset and another vertically due to wheel travel). What is the maximum angle of the U-Joint for travel and what is maximum recommended for highway?
 
I did 2 rides like this with a mini-truck cv d-shaft and did not break any u- joints or have any binding issues either......whats ironic is that i went on my first ride this weekend with a centered rear axle and broke the fawking d-shaft on the 2nd trail:doh:
 
Unijoints don't understand gravity. Left, right, up, down, it's all the same. Think of the left/right offset as being up/down. ;)
 
Z()LTAN said:
Unijoints don't understand gravity. Left, right, up, down, it's all the same. Think of the left/right offset as being up/down. ;)
Click to expand...

The problem is with the lift. Say you have offsetting of 20 cm on 80 cm shaft. This is 14.5 degrees. No add 30 cm of vertical separation between flanges and it's 26 degrees already.
 
If the u-joints don't bind, there really isn't a problem. If you're going to drive the truck on the street, then you will have some driveline vibrations.
 
Hmm been pondering same thing465 205 with cruiser diff
Am going to build a hybrid with mini truck axles and housing ends
But this might do till I build it
 
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