CEL P325 & 330 Knock Sensors (1 Viewer)

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Don't know if this makes any difference from the technical point of view for this discussion, but the part number for the 1FZ-FE knock sensors is the same for the entire run of the engine.

ECU's are different during the production run, and different between the LC and the LX.

:meh:
 
Ok, so is the 89615-30050 still the correct part number?

Also, what ECU "should" be in an 04/1995 truck?
 
Great to see some complete information on knock sensors and trouble shooting as I was had an issue with my #1 sensor. Which recently I found to be a result of a PO bad splice. I have made a temporary fix, but need to do a permanent repair in the near future.

My question is, how does a knock sensor fail, do they simply wear out? Aside from a wiring issue, what is the week link?

clownmidget...glad to hear things are on the mend for you and your Cruiser.
 
My 95 LC just had first head job after 270,000 it was leaking everything from everywhere and was running what I thought dam well for those miles. But after new radiator,water pump,head job with no valve adjust or new parts just all new top and bottom seals/gaskets.
After work was complete I pick truck up and drove, it was very sluggish they said it was the big tires it wasn't that, they ssid it was timing wasn't that, they said it was knock sensor wasn't that, they said it was mass air sensor wasn't that, I was looking over all the work during the 3 days I had it back and noticed the fuel injector wiring connector was wiggly/loose when touching it.
The clip that secures it was broke so I zip tied it to stay in place and we'll what do you know the intermittent gas going to the cylinder was giving bad readings to ecu and giving me poor gas milage and sluggish peddle response and intermittent sputtering slow and high speeds. Called back up and told them the solution .looks like a new wiring harness is in store.
 
My 95 LC just had first head job after 270,000 it was leaking everything from everywhere and was running what I thought dam well for those miles. But after new radiator,water pump,head job with no valve adjust or new parts just all new top and bottom seals/gaskets.
After work was complete I pick truck up and drove, it was very sluggish they said it was the big tires it wasn't that, they ssid it was timing wasn't that, they said it was knock sensor wasn't that, they said it was mass air sensor wasn't that, I was looking over all the work during the 3 days I had it back and noticed the fuel injector wiring connector was wiggly/loose when touching it.
The clip that secures it was broke so I zip tied it to stay in place and we'll what do you know the intermittent gas going to the cylinder was giving bad readings to ecu and giving me poor gas milage and sluggish peddle response and intermittent sputtering slow and high speeds. Called back up and told them the solution .looks like a new wiring harness is in store.
Check all wiring connections before buying any in new parts I was ready to buy a new knock sensor, MAY sensor, O2 sensor, Cam sensor, crank sensor and distributor to solve this problem glad. I didnt. Unecessary.
 
Thought I'd start my own thread as I continue to chase this. Started out here (96 FZJ80 missing at Bad at 2800-3500 RPM full throttle) but now it seems I've got more work to do...

Swapped back in the stock MAF and drove truck around for 4 days in mixed driving with no issues. Started a 1300 mile trip yesterday and after about 2 hours of interstate driving with cruise set and loping along at ~70 mph, ~2200 rpms, had the CEL come on. Same old ones - 0325 & 0330 for 1 & 2 knock sensors. Re-set it repeatedly and it kept coming back on. Only "new" clue was when I would re-set it at a gas station stop, on the first re-start of the engine, the engine would rev and not find it's idle. I could kill it, and then restart it and it would behave normally. If I did not kill it, it would keep reving up and down between 2000 rpms and 1200 rpms, never finding its normal idle. It would then drive normally on the interstate but once I'd pull off, it would still not have a normal idle. Still same CEL's for knock sensors.

Both have been pulled, bench tested and reinstalled. Harness is new. Checked connections at MAF, but the harness side is new so everything looks great. It does behave like the MAF is wacky but not sure why this is setting off knock sensors codes. Engine is running very smooth, I went ahead and reset the ECU and put in some high octane fuel but the CEL's came on right away again.

Thought I'd try and clean the MAF with some spray cleaner for it. Maybe clean up the electricl connections. I don't have an EWD with me and really don't want to pull the glove box and crap to check the pins on the ECU.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

Thanks and :cheers:
Check for loose or broken fuel injector connections if loose or broken secure snap it will wiggle loose from vibration giving intermittent gas to that cylinder causing the lunging and surging it happen to me
 
As stated already, CHECK the actual wiring from the ECU to the knock sensors. One of mine went bad due to the mileage, connections were flaky. So I ran new wires from the ECU pinouts to both Knock sensors. Problem solved. I had good continuity on both wires but during certain engine movement or heating/cooling cycles, something was failing. These sensors are very robust and about as smart as a toaster, so they don't go bad often.
 
My 95 LC just had first head job after 270,000 it was leaking everything from everywhere and was running what I thought dam well for those miles. But after new radiator,water pump,head job with no valve adjust or new parts just all new top and bottom seals/gaskets.
After work was complete I pick truck up and drove, it was very sluggish they said it was the big tires it wasn't that, they ssid it was timing wasn't that, they said it was knock sensor wasn't that, they said it was mass air sensor wasn't that, I was looking over all the work during the 3 days I had it back and noticed the fuel injector wiring connector was wiggly/loose when touching it.
The clip that secures it was broke so I zip tied it to stay in place and we'll what do you know the intermittent gas going to the cylinder was giving bad readings to ecu and giving me poor gas milage and sluggish peddle response and intermittent sputtering slow and high speeds. Called back up and told them the solution .looks like a new wiring harness is in store.
Hi know this is an older thread. But I am having the same exact issue. All knock sensors have been replaced. Recently had the engine rebuilt and head gasket done. Engine is way underpowered and my fuel consumption is worse than it was before. Were you able to trouble shoot what the issue was?
 

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