This will help you IF you need to delve into your CDL actuator. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/68015-cdl-actuator-fun.html
CDL Switch NOT working, indicator does not illuminate, now what?
- Thread starter lownslow
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Lownslow I feel your pain mine is also intermittent.
Things if done and still no success:
1) drove it around exercised the hell out of all 3 lockers
2.) checked all switches on tc with multimeter
3.) remove actuator and serviced clean contacts it moved freely hooked it up to a 9 volt batt. Turned on everytime
4.) I even did a new factory cdl switch and 7 pin mod.
After all that it's still intermittent
What I did notice when not working,I don't here the relay click on the left side kick panel......I'm starting to doubt it's the black box known as the transmission relay
Thoughts anybody?
is that black box also known as the locker ecm?
is there an actual "relay" im missing and should test besides the transmission relay box
Things if done and still no success:
1) drove it around exercised the hell out of all 3 lockers
2.) checked all switches on tc with multimeter
3.) remove actuator and serviced clean contacts it moved freely hooked it up to a 9 volt batt. Turned on everytime
4.) I even did a new factory cdl switch and 7 pin mod.
After all that it's still intermittent
What I did notice when not working,I don't here the relay click on the left side kick panel......I'm starting to doubt it's the black box known as the transmission relay
Thoughts anybody?
is that black box also known as the locker ecm?
is there an actual "relay" im missing and should test besides the transmission relay box
Last edited:
Hey Allan
The "locker" ecm is what Toyota calls the 4 Wheel Drive ecm, which is different than the transmission ecm. It is what controls the front and rear lockers. If you're having problems wiht the CDL, then you want to look at the tranmission ecm.
Since the grounds to complete the CDL actuator motor circuit run through those 3 little tabs inside the actuator, if there is any problem anywhere in the circuit it can cause the transmission ecm to look faulty (in this case, not click at all).
When I thought I had a bad transmission ecm, it was actually a gummed up CDL actuator. However - if you're able to "bench test" the locker actuator with 9 volt battery, then I'm not sure... also not sure if there is another relay in the switching system somewhere. I'd say check the fuses, but if it's intermittent that's probably not the issue either.
Any chance there could be a rotten connection in the wiring harness between the transmission ecm and the CDL actuator motor? Like I mentioned, if the circuit is broken anywhere in between, it will cause the transmission ecm to misbehave.
Any chance there could be a rotten connection in the wiring harness between the transmission ecm and the CDL actuator motor? Like I mentioned, if the circuit is broken anywhere in between, it will cause the transmission ecm to misbehave.[/QUOTE]
Well i did notice while underneath after checking every connection
on the TC unplugging/plugging the connectors i followed the wires from the TC all the way up to the firewall then lost track where it went just midway above the tranny the wire loom was very crusty and if you squeezed hard enough it broke to pieces exposing the wires but not the wire itself.....so i just covered that area with some aftermarket wire loom to avoid chaffing......but those wires showed no signs of damage just exposed its designated colors from the wire loom being so brittle.....i even got to the point just to rule that part out to turn on the rig and turn on cdl swith and crawl underneath and wiggle the wiring harness but no go
can wires be rotten internally with heat exposure?
i dont have an FSM.....can i just hardwire a new power source direct to the actuator and rule the wiring out?
Well i did notice while underneath after checking every connection
on the TC unplugging/plugging the connectors i followed the wires from the TC all the way up to the firewall then lost track where it went just midway above the tranny the wire loom was very crusty and if you squeezed hard enough it broke to pieces exposing the wires but not the wire itself.....so i just covered that area with some aftermarket wire loom to avoid chaffing......but those wires showed no signs of damage just exposed its designated colors from the wire loom being so brittle.....i even got to the point just to rule that part out to turn on the rig and turn on cdl swith and crawl underneath and wiggle the wiring harness but no go
can wires be rotten internally with heat exposure?
i dont have an FSM.....can i just hardwire a new power source direct to the actuator and rule the wiring out?
Well i did notice while underneath after checking every connection
on the TC unplugging/plugging the connectors i followed the wires from the TC all the way up to the firewall then lost track where it went just midway above the tranny the wire loom was very crusty and if you squeezed hard enough it broke to pieces exposing the wires but not the wire itself.....so i just covered that area with some aftermarket wire loom to avoid chaffing......but those wires showed no signs of damage just exposed its designated colors from the wire loom being so brittle.....i even got to the point just to rule that part out to turn on the rig and turn on cdl swith and crawl underneath and wiggle the wiring harness but no go
can wires be rotten internally with heat exposure?
i dont have an FSM.....can i just hardwire a new power source direct to the actuator and rule the wiring out?
If you have the time, you could "make" the wiring harness between the CDL actuator and the transmission ecm. I believe it's only 5 wires, two for power/gnd, and 3 for the actuator limit switch sensors (the little brass looking tabs). Just run the wire out the door of the cruiser and underneath, only for testing. That would rule out the wiring between the ecm and the actuator.
I'll PM you regarding the manual.