CDL not working (1 Viewer)

[smoothcruiser]

Let me try this again. Which tool works best to remove the sensor? My 27mm wrench is apparently too long, but I have not found a shorter one in local shops. I must be missing some basic info here. Thanks.

 

[Rifleman]

Smoothcruise, i used a Martin service wrench, they have very shot handles and it worked great to remove this switch. Here is a link to a set of metric Martin service wrench's. The set your looking for is part number SW11KM. http://www.martinsprocket.com/products/product-search?Website_Code=HT2?Website_Code=HT2?Website_Code=?Website_Code=

 

[Jim S.]

Picked up a inexpensive wrench at Home Depot. Cut it in half with with my cut off wheel. Works like a charm.

 

[smoothcruiser]

^ Thanks for the tool suggestions ^ . I was able to get the switch out with my over-sized spanner. Cleaned up the ball end of the switch with brake cleaner, then cleaned it and the contact with electrical cleaner, the species that's plastic-friendly. Squeezed a little delectric grease into the contact zone and screwed it back into its home and hooked it up. Took the truck out to the nearest gravel road and wahlah!, the CDL and ABS dash lights came on and I was able to lock both front and rear diffs. How do I spell relief! L-O-C-K-E-D.

Recent treasure hunting these pages for CDL issues info, I notice that CDL/locker issues are commonplace with the FZJ80 factory lockers and sensor switches. The two common fixes for the sensor switch I found are: 1) remove and clean, and 2) randomly try to engage CDL/lockers slowly driving back and forth on gravel or dirt on the way to grandmother's house, etc.. I'm betting that these two fixes are somehow connected, no pun intended, i.e. that by randomly engaging the switch it somehow self-cleans or otherwise makes contact that it was not previously able to perform.

 

[Phildoh]

I'm diving into getting mine fixed this weekend. Locker lights blink currently, even after repeatedly turning lockers on and off in low range, loose gravel, moving a few mph at a slight turn so it senses slip. Is that true that they need wheel slip to engage? I'm a noob to the 80/factory setup and I've been reading a bunch. 7pin mod/switch happening tomorrow, from there I'm gonna try what this and other threads suggest. Any other tips for the noob????

 

[smoothcruiser]

As you can tell by my entries above, I'm a noob, too. Does the center diff lock come on the dash when you shift into low? If not, a fairly common cause for this and thus lockers not locking up is the sensor switch on the top front right of the transfer case. Identifying this cause is pretty easy with the paper clip trick. You can either clean up the switch or buy a new one for less than $30. There's a lot of good info to support these (easy) DIY techniques.

 

[Phildoh]

Correct, no cdl light at all. Are there any fuses to check as a pre-lim or is it pretty much dive under and start checking things? I haven't heard ANY noises of actuators moving/engaging which tells me they're either frozen, or no juice activating them. PO boasted about lockers blah blah blah and didn't want to haggle on the 5k price, or now the recent brake booster, PS pump or O2 sensor I've had to do already...

 

[smoothcruiser]

Yes, there is a fuse to check. I think it's under the hood. The owners manual shows the location.

When you shift into low (and light does not come on), does the truck indeed engage into low, i.e. gets heavy and deliberate?

 

[Brian Delgado]

Guys,

I realize that this is an old post.
The problem that I have is that the CDL switch does not engage the centre diff but the transfer case does. I’ve checked the switch and it’s fine. Could it be the relay?

 

[Cruzerman]

...looks like it just took some massaging to wake up 20 years of never being activated.

20 years of never going into low range? One of the saddest things I've ever heard.

 

[SnowroxKT]

Just sharing what mine ended up being and how I solved it, but first some background.

I just bought the rig and it sat for 3 years or maybe more? for the most part. When I installed the CDL switch in the dash I kept trying to activate the center diff by clicking the switch on and off, but I could only hear the relays clicking by the drivers footwell for the most part, at least once I heard the motor actually engage and that was a pleasant whirring sound that lasted maybe 2 seconds?

This last weekend I went out on the family's first offroad trip in the rig and kept switching the CDL off and on, but I had no idea if it was working since the indicator wasn't functioning.

I replaced the CDL indicator switch (the one more accessible from the front side) but the connector and wiring had a lot of corrosion on them. I used a trick I had learned before and used on my Tacoma to clean up the corrosion and get it working again. I hope the video helps, please like if it did!

 

[MHS]

Hello,

I need some help. I've done alot of research and now im kind of stuck. Before taking the actuator off the transfer case I want to discuss my case so please listen and helo if you could.

I have a 95 HDJ80 3 locked with a H151 tranny. The cdl and ABS lights are not working ON START UP. I short the Cdl cable and the lights do come on. So I thought the switch was bad! I replaced the switch and still no lights.

I next went behind the Transfer case and shorted the 4lo sensor, no lights whatsoever.

If there anything im missing or is the actuator dead. Kindly let me know. Thank you.

No 7-pin mod or cdl switch installed.

Kindly help