Carb/Vacuum Issues - Again

[Pighead]

Was the factory using bolts for the manifolds in 1980?!
Egads!
I always only use new OEM studs and the special nuts that fit them.
If I over torque, the nut will strip before the stud snaps. Much easier fix.
Can't find your BB? You can take the bottom cover off the flywheel (just a couple of screws)
to help you see it and shine it up.
Did you get the hand crank with your 40? Do they even work on the late models?
I use my handcrank to turn the engine for initial timing or valve adjusting.
Don't wait until after you get the engined timed to adjust your carb, do it all at the same time.
I go back and forth between the dizzy and the carb when tuning. Turn the dizzy, adjust the idle, turn the dizzy, adjust the idle.
To time by vacuum, advance timing (and adjust idle) until you get your best (highest) vacuum reading, then back off (retard) the timing just a few inches of Hg on the gauge.
Keep an ear out for pinging under load and be prepared to retard a little if it gets to be a problem.
BTW, sounds like you're doing a fine job learning and fixing your 'Cruiser.
Keep it up.

 

[NJFJ40]

Thx Pighead. Plan to re-assemble and go for timing later. I will look for the flywheel cover and tackle it that way - good advice.

I did not get a handcrank and not sure where it would go. I read here somewhere that you could advance the engine by putting a socket on the alternator bolt (I think) and turn but that method didn't work on mine.

Wrenching is becoming addictive. A few months ago, I would have stormed away from the garage after breaking a bolt like I did yesterday - especially when it potentially involved complete disassembly and maybe re-tapping the block. Yesterday - I got POd for about 30 secs and then calmly assessed where to start. Ended up going fine. Pretty cool.

AndrewT