Does anyone have a trusted shop who has repaired/replaced components on their fan controller board?
My controller is out of a 78 FJ40.
My controller is out of a 78 FJ40.
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I had the same issue on my 78. Have you taken it apart for a look. Took it apart and decided it was too much trouble so I found a good used one in the classified section of mud. If it's some minor cold solder repair it shouldn't be a big deal.
I believe I found a burned circuit trace on the controller for my '78 and just soldered a wire across that. Another place that typically fails is the solder joints where a plug connector is attached to the board. Look for broken solder joints there and just re-solder them.
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Here are some images of the damaged components.
I just put a thermal switch in my cylinder head and called it done.
More info please.
Just buy a thermal switch that comes on at 195 and turns off at 185 or so and wire it in bypassing all your other stuff you can get the whole kit on line for about $15.00 and it includes everything you need . I put one on my LV and it works perfectly.
LCDriver, The parts that you have pictured are covered with what I think would be glue to stop vibration . It has not come from the parts. If you want to fix it yourself? You would only need the ability to solder, have a meter that can read capacitance and get replacement capacitors. It is a simple fix and I can be more detailed if you are interested. Mike
Yeah, I don't see any damage in your photos. They just used glue to lock a few parts together. Honestly, you need to look at the PC traces for any burned spots and look at the solder joints of the connector at the back of the board. If you see a ring around a solder joint, it may be cracked.
Have you verified the fuse is good? Its hidden under the dash to the right of the steering wheel
I recently got my carb blower working on my '79 for the first time since I have owned it. Both the controller box and relay were bad and the fuse was blown. Got both parts used off the internet. The fan motor had been lost somewhere along the line, so I bought one from an FJ60 for $20 plus shipping and modified the mounting flange to get it aimed at the carb. Made a mounting bracket to hold the snap switch on the intake manifold and it works fine now. The snap switch I used is ON at 165 and OFF at 145 degrees.
Any chance you have a link to the thermal/snap switch you used and would recommend? Thanks!
Was it something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0796331DP/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1
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Just go on eBay the kit came with the switch, wire, the relay and instructions. Easy stuff
are you sure the relay is the issue? Why don't you post an image of both sides of the full board.
Check the fuse and clean the contacts in all the connectors under the hood and under the dash.
I went into mine with the same assumption that the relay was bad and that wasnt the issue. After cleaning all the contacts, blowing out 40 years of dirt and changing the fuse...mine cranked right up and hasn't missed a beat since. I used contact cleaner and a wire brush on all the terminals...and its like new.
Check the fuse and clean the contacts in all the connectors under the hood and under the dash.
I went into mine with the same assumption that the relay was bad and that wasnt the issue. After cleaning all the contacts, blowing out 40 years of dirt and changing the fuse...mine cranked right up and hasn't missed a beat since. I used contact cleaner and a wire brush on all the terminals...and its like new.
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The OP has the later style fan system that does not have the relay on the control board. If you look at the photo he posted, you can see the cylindrical M3 type relay next to the controller. ( I see now that was NOT the OP who's photo had the later style controller, it was a later contributor. )
In answer to the question about the heat sensor snap switch, you want a single connector type like this:
https://www.amazon.com/American-Vol...4801450&sr=8-9&keywords=165+degree+thermostat
Yes, thats my image from an 81. My point in posting is to check all the connectors and fuse before you assume the board is bad. I know someone who found out the hard way
The fuse is a bitch to get at and after 40 years, the connectors could use attention. I cleaned all the corrosion off of mine, replaced some aging cables and brittle connectors and installed a new fuse and the fan came back to life. This was only after I spent a week tracing every line and completely removing the relay and controller which also were covered in a layer of dirt. My 81 has factory AC, so getting to the controller and fuse is not fun. I should have used a small child or trained monkey, but I didnt trust them so I did it myself.
