Canoe Repair

[CruisinGA]

Got a '89-90 model Old Town Discovery 158 canoe. Hoping to hit the water this weekend for the first time in years.

Just found a ~6" crack on the side of canoe, below the waterline. What is the best repair? My mind jumps straight to JB Weld, but I figure there's got to be a specific product, with as many of these canoes as there. See picture. It's a crappy phone pic but you get the idea.

Also- the cane seats have fallen through. Cane kits are available from Old Town for $20 a pop. I'm wondering if there might be a better option.

 

[Green Lantern]

A friend of mine used to rent Coleman polystyrene canoes. He made repairs with Shoe Goo. My canoe is Royalex. Mad River and other manufacturers made a repair cement for it. In the field I've repaired both canoe types with duct tape.
FWIW
Happy Trails! N

 

[titanpat57]

Seems to be along the right line..

Patching a Royalex Canoe

 

[hkeller]

The 158 is not a Royalex boat and repairs for Royalex will not work on the 158. Call Old Town and order the repair kit made especially for this type of boat. The Discovery line of boats are probably the hardest to repair and most good repairs involve heating the craked area with a torch and then appying the patch. I hate to say it, but it will be hard for a non pro to get a good patch on a 158. Royalex is much easier to repair.

You are MUCH better off doing it right the first time. If not, you'll probably never be able to properly repair repair it. However, a good first repair will be almost as strong as the originial.

 

[pc4400]

... In the field I've repaired both canoe types with duct tape.

Nice! Yet another use for duct tape

I also have an old Old Town (bought in the id 80's). I was thinking of possibly adding an extra fiberglass gel coat, but it doesnt leak after testing, but I'll have my ducttape handy!

 

[sirenmoses]

The 158 is not a Royalex boat and repairs for Royalex will not work on the 158. Call Old Town and order the repair kit made especially for this type of boat. The Discovery line of boats are probably the hardest to repair and most good repairs involve heating the craked area with a torch and then appying the patch. I hate to say it, but it will be hard for a non pro to get a good patch on a 158. Royalex is much easier to repair.

You are MUCH better off doing it right the first time. If not, you'll probably never be able to properly repair repair it. However, a good first repair will be almost as strong as the originial.

what he said.

You might drop by the nearest REI & ask to talk to someone in the Paddling shop. They can getcha lined out.

Might also be worthwhile to find a local independant paddling shop & have'em do the repair for you.

 

[titanpat57]

The 158 is not a Royalex boat and repairs for Royalex will not work on the 158. Call Old Town and order the repair kit made especially for this type of boat. The Discovery line of boats are probably the hardest to repair and most good repairs involve heating the craked area with a torch and then appying the patch. I hate to say it, but it will be hard for a non pro to get a good patch on a 158. Royalex is much easier to repair.

You are MUCH better off doing it right the first time. If not, you'll probably never be able to properly repair repair it. However, a good first repair will be almost as strong as the originial.

What caught my eye was the description on the box...looks to be made by the manufacturer.

The link I posted above has colored, step by step pictures, including polarizing the area with a torch

 

[sirenmoses]

What caught my eye was the description on the box...looks to made by the manufacturer.

Hmmm, that made me do some digging. Back in the day I was that Paddling Shop person, and once a year we had a rental fleet repair day.

Short version: Discovery used to be Crosslink, a 'solid' plastic, while Roylex was the favored lighter material, with a foam core. Different repair techniques were required.

However, I digress. Here's what I found, from here - https://crab.secure-host.com/extrasport/oldtowncanoe/access_instructions.php:

"Kit Contents:

Quantity Description Part Number

1 Sandpaper 1311.1050
1 Fiberglass Cloth 1314.0085
1 Can Resin 1331.0641A
1 Can Hardener 1331.0641B
1 Paint Brush 1311.0130
1 Stirring Stick 1311.0446

Other Tools and Materials Required:

Clean, dry dust cloth
1 ½ or 2 inch wide masking tape
Small handheld propane torch
Plastic sheet for drip cover
Disposable gloves
(Not needed for Royalex Canoes)
Scissors to cut fiberglass cloth
Measuring tape


Read all instructions, including the precaution labels on resin and hardener cans before beginning. Work in a clean area out of direct sunlight. Avoid exposing skin or eyes to resin by wearing gloves and glasses.

Step 1. Prepare the area.
Make sure the repair area is dry. Trapped moisture will ruin your repair. A hair dryer is a safe an effective way of drying.
· Position the canoe so that the hole or tear is flat, level, and easy to reach. Align the edges of the tear to as near original position as possible.
· On the inside and outside of the canoe, sand a rectangle 3” all around the damage with the sandpaper. Outline the perimeter of the sanded areas with masking tape.
· After sanding, wipe off the areas with a cloth. Carefully examine the surface. If you can see any shiny areas, sand them until the shine is gone.


Step 2. Flaming

· USE THIS STEP ONLY ON DISCOVERY(&) POLYETHELENE CANOES AND KAYKS. DO NOT USE ON ROYALEX CANOES.
· Remove the tape outline. You will be able to see the difference between the sanded surface and the shiny surface without the tape.
· “Flaming” will allow the resin to adhere to the surface. The process does not involve melting or blackening the surface.
· Light the hand held propane torch. The flame will have an inner cone and an outer cone. Adjust the flame so that the inner cone extends about 1” from the nozzle.
· Moving smoothly and quickly, bring the tip of the inner cone in contact with the surface of the canoe, and sweep back and forth over the area. The flame should touch the hull in any one spot only momentarily.
· If you feel that you might have missed a spot, wait about 20 minutes and repeat the process.
· After flaming the outside of the canoe, wait about 20 minutes to flame the inside sanded area. DO NOT touch the area after flaming as oils from your fingers will remain.
· Reattach the tape outline, and attach the plastic drip cover around the working area with masking tape, to prevent dripping resin onto your canoe. Press the tape down firmly all around to prevent resin runs under the tape.


Step 3. Prepare fiberglass cloth

· Cut six pieces from the cloth supplied with the repair kit. Cut two large pieces with a two inch margin all around the break and cut 4 smaller pieces with a 1inch margin around the break. (If you are repairing a large area, you may have enough cloth for only two layers on each side)


Step 4. Applying the cloth and resin

· Resin working time is 20 minutes at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. At temperatures warmer than 70 degrees, the working time is greatly reduced (90 degree temperature gives you only 10 minutes working time).
· Mix the resin. Pour all of Part B (hardener) into Part A (resin). If lesser amounts are needed, mix in a ratio of 5 parts A to 2 parts B. Mix thoroughly, until the mixture is uniform color.
· With the paintbrush, apply a liberal amount of mixed resin to the sanded area on the inside of the canoe.
· Apply a small piece of cloth to the wet resin, using the brush to work the resin through the cloth and work air bubbles out to the edge. Apply one of the larger pieces on top of the smaller piece, and apply more resin, if needed. Apply a second smaller piece, working the resin through the cloth and removing the air bubbles. Smooth or feather the edges of the resin as much as possible.
· Apply resin to the outside sanded area of the canoe and repeat the process with the last three pieces of cloth.


Step 5. Finishing

· Let the resin cure for at least 6 hours, then lightly sand the edges of the repaired area.
· Paint is available to match the canoe if desired."


IIRC, anytime we did a hull repair we slapped on keel protection.

HTH

 

[hkeller]

Looks like Old Town has a dual purpose kit now. Good to know.

 

[CruisinGA]

Some JBWeld and duct tape got the canoe through the weekend.

Now it's time to do the repair correctly so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Ordered up the Old Town Discovery/Royalex Kit.

Then it will be time to get some bladders and knee padding and hit some whitewater.

 

[hkeller]

Make sure you get all the JB Weld and duct tape adhesive off the canoe before you start the new patch or you are just throwing away your money on the patch kit.

Trust me, my freind, preparation is 90 % of making a good repair.

 

[CruisinGA]

I hear ya. I expected this to be the same as with most adhesives/coatings, prep is always the most important part.

Plan is to cut out a 1/4" wide slot or so to be sure all JB is gone.

 

[sirenmoses]

Some JBWeld and duct tape got the canoe through the weekend.

Now it's time to do the repair correctly so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Ordered up the Old Town Discovery/Royalex Kit.

Then it will be time to get some bladders and knee padding and hit some whitewater.

You hitting the 'hooch or going up north?

 

[CruisinGA]

Last weekend was the chestatee, good re-intro to paddling. First half before all the rafting companies was a lot of fun.

Probably do the north hooch and etowah before summer's over. Got to hit the etowah after a rain or it can be a little low.

 

[KayakPanic]

beer cans and duct tape, that is the professinal MacGuyver fix in the field!

 

[Chriscanoe]

Baily, you should get some mesh seats to replace your cane seats. I believe old town sells them, however you seem to be crafty enough to make some. What you should do is put that boat on Craigslist, and get a true whitewater solo canoe, off craigslist. A good choice would be a Mohawk probe. I have seen a few in the Atlanta Area recently. At any rate, lets get together and paddle sometime, my boating buddies are Sigs also, love to have you go with us.
In Hoc!

 

[CruisinGA]

Chris-
I saw the mesh seats. They look slick and definately what I would buy. Problem is, the duct tape worked so well, I doubt I'll do anything else until I either run out of duct tape or the wood fails.

My mom bought my dad this canoe years ago, so I don't think I could get rid of it. Doesn't mean getting another one is out of the question.

However- my paddling buddy has a badass old school perception that his dad paddled whitewater solo all over in for years. I could borrow it whenever. Already set up with bladders and knee foam where you need it. Definately looking to get in a canoe on some whitewater.

It's the black canoe on the trailer- I don't know how those fugly fools got in the front of the picture.

 

[romegadave]

Last weekend was the chestatee, good re-intro to paddling. First half before all the rafting companies was a lot of fun.

Probably do the north hooch and etowah before summer's over. Got to hit the etowah after a rain or it can be a little low.

Yeah Bailey....back in the drought again and our 3 rivers are starting to show it. Although I will say if the water is low you can see ancient fishing weirs along the Etowah.

 

[Chriscanoe]

Hey man , All Hail The power of the Duct Tape, do not change a thing on that boat.
I once patched my friends nose when he dove in the river, and busted it, with a ripped piece of capaline and duct tape. I also paddled my pink Dagger Encore with a hole in the stern for more than a year, patched up with duct tape. That Perception boat is an Antique. I think they quit making open boats back in the early eighties. He needs to hang on to that. Any way, keep your dads boat for flat water rivers, and pick up a used white water canoe. I saw one today on cl, a Mohawk XL12 which is a pretty decent boat, with air bags, saddle, and thigh straps, for $500, in Atl. Not a bad deal, and you would be amazed at the difference in performance. Whatever you do, always remember," half the paddle, twice the man!"

 

[SunTzuMD]

I got my OT Penobscot off a guy in SoCal. The cane seats were a mess. I used the original frame, refinished them and then custom weaved some 1" tubular webbing from the climbing shop at REI for seats. It was cheap and they turned out awesome.

Just a suggestion for cheap / unique seat fix.