I've got to tackle the stereo in my truck sooner than later. I think I will just put something in the dash and new front door speakers and make new rear cargo area panels and add 6x9s, I don't plan on an amp or sub.
Builds Buster Brown-Slow maintenance, slow owner, slowing my roll way down.
- Thread starter Comet
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- #42
Sound Ordinance has a powered sub that fits under the seat. Crutchfield is less than a mile from my office so I plan on popping in regularly to find a deal. Kenwood makes the same set up for just a little more coin. They are small and will make up for the lack of thump the 2-way speakers don't have. Buster will not be a thumping machine but I'd like some response when Brass Monkey by the Beastie Boys is blaring out the windows (HaHa!).
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I don't sell the felts, they are still available from Toyota.
Just door seals and lockstrip.
J
- Thread starter
- #45
Thank you gentleman. What I want to do is just leave the door with as much metal as possible. This would entail only having the door cards below the top of the door. Thus the area where the push/pull lock (which is not working) would be metal. The felt on the inside of the window would not attach to the door card anymore because there is no door card in that area. @Racer65 has utilized quite a few different approaches for our rigs. Going to have to put up pictures because words are useless.
- Thread starter
- #46
So the paint should come back nicely. Washed on the left. Rubbing compound and cleaner wax on the right. Don't see me, see me and the dents. Pretty cool.
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- #47
Just a few parts are staring at me. Going to have to tackle this soon.
- Thread starter
- #48
Now is where I ask for the MUD collective help and beg forgiveness for mixing up who posted what about which system. I have scoured the site, read a few posts, and realized they may or may not contradict themselves. @mwebfj60 posted a few drawings I like but I am confused which to use. It seems like you can pick and choose what to do and not do.
I have removed the choke breaker, choke opener, deceleration fuel cut system, and HAC. Are any of these necessary for 2400 ft above sea level?
The HIC (Hot Idle Compensator) will be activated from the "T" in the EGR and this vehicle has the cooling fan that is attached directly to the crank and turns at engine speed all the time. The fins will level out at WOT. Spectre or Man-A-Fre book outlined the function of this fan.
THe HAI (Hot Air Intake) is activated off the HIC and can be capped if not necessary per JimC post I read.
The non-USA japanese carb vacuum port nearest the valve cover is sent directly to the distributor, there are no other ports. The HAC (High Altitude Compensator) is capped on the distributor.
The distributor vents have one vacuum tube to a one-way valve placed in the engine bay (not into the cabin) and the other vent functioning with a vcv to the air cleaner to minimize the amount of moisture that can collect in the distributor. The charcoal canister is currently not being used as I need a second functional vcv.
Eliminating the charcoal venting system seems counter intuitive but when I consider using the vcv with the distributor vent and the vcv for the charcoal canister I am running both to the air cleaner. How can I do that with only one air cleaner vent to atmosphere fitting?
BVSV 1 is currently not hooked into anything because I dont have the deceleration fuel cut vacuum switch, BVSV 2 is capped and not utilized, the three fuel filter vacuum lines are currently capped.
My knowledge is tapped and I haven't had a #6 the whole time.
I have removed the choke breaker, choke opener, deceleration fuel cut system, and HAC. Are any of these necessary for 2400 ft above sea level?
The HIC (Hot Idle Compensator) will be activated from the "T" in the EGR and this vehicle has the cooling fan that is attached directly to the crank and turns at engine speed all the time. The fins will level out at WOT. Spectre or Man-A-Fre book outlined the function of this fan.
THe HAI (Hot Air Intake) is activated off the HIC and can be capped if not necessary per JimC post I read.
The non-USA japanese carb vacuum port nearest the valve cover is sent directly to the distributor, there are no other ports. The HAC (High Altitude Compensator) is capped on the distributor.
The distributor vents have one vacuum tube to a one-way valve placed in the engine bay (not into the cabin) and the other vent functioning with a vcv to the air cleaner to minimize the amount of moisture that can collect in the distributor. The charcoal canister is currently not being used as I need a second functional vcv.
Eliminating the charcoal venting system seems counter intuitive but when I consider using the vcv with the distributor vent and the vcv for the charcoal canister I am running both to the air cleaner. How can I do that with only one air cleaner vent to atmosphere fitting?
BVSV 1 is currently not hooked into anything because I dont have the deceleration fuel cut vacuum switch, BVSV 2 is capped and not utilized, the three fuel filter vacuum lines are currently capped.
My knowledge is tapped and I haven't had a #6 the whole time.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Example of keeping the charcoal purge system.
Vacuum line X, how do I attach it to the air cleaner if I am already using the port on the air cleaner for the distributor?
Vacuum line X, how do I attach it to the air cleaner if I am already using the port on the air cleaner for the distributor?
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- Thread starter
- #51
Current set up with a few vacuum ports plugged off. I will correct the routing to reflect the diagrams. This is NOT the way to run things correctly.
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- Thread starter
- #52
additional.
- Thread starter
- #53
Passenger side has been done. I was premature saying I capped the carb spacer port. It is hooked to the vcv but surely not correctly. BVSV 1 has vacuum lines coming off but currently terminating to air.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Why would you ditch the charcoal canister? Your gas tank will thank you if you keep it. If not the whoosh you'll have when you open that gas cap will blow you away.
And why would you ditch the fuel decel?
I can't help but feel a tad lost by some of those choices.
Even me at sea level, I've kept the fuel decel. I have a working CC and it's evap VCV. When it was capped off w/ no VCV over there all it had was one line from the tank... I gutted it and refilled it. One I got a VCV online I have no more whoosh. (The LX80 series $100 typically... I got mine for $66, I can sweet talk my guy at the dealer if you want to get one or two).
Marc @mwebfj60 is a great help and has helped me tons (and put up w/ my way too early for Cali time texts) so I realize you have been directed by good hands, I'm just a tad baffled. Doesn't take much tho.
Felicity
And why would you ditch the fuel decel?
I can't help but feel a tad lost by some of those choices.
Even me at sea level, I've kept the fuel decel. I have a working CC and it's evap VCV. When it was capped off w/ no VCV over there all it had was one line from the tank... I gutted it and refilled it. One I got a VCV online I have no more whoosh. (The LX80 series $100 typically... I got mine for $66, I can sweet talk my guy at the dealer if you want to get one or two).
Marc @mwebfj60 is a great help and has helped me tons (and put up w/ my way too early for Cali time texts) so I realize you have been directed by good hands, I'm just a tad baffled. Doesn't take much tho.
Felicity
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
What carb is that? Trollhole or city racer? Must be if only has one port on the valve cover side...
- Thread starter
- #56
@NeverGiveUpYota thank you for the reply. Full disclosure time. I read a lot of posts and opinion for five days straight. I haven't reached out to anyone as of yet. I formulated a basic game plan and executed said plan. I was doing all my research on a cali-build carb desmog. I then proceeded to fuss and cuss in front of my land lord who teaches ministers for a living in Africa. I followed 23 of 24 pages of a very detailed read only to realize page one said enter at own risk. At midnight I went out and ripped everything out. In true Newby fashion, I took a day off to come at it with a fresh mind and eyes. I am DEFINITELY open to any and all suggestions related to my city racer carb. It seems like there's great information on MUD but with contradicting statements at every turn.
Phew, where do I send the check for that therapy bill?
I want as much functionality as possible. I agree about the charcoal canister and venting.
My understanding is that I want a functioning VCV for the distributor. This will prolong the life of the distributor by venting both gas fumes and any associated moisture.
I used the constant vacuum from the fuel filter vacuum (three prongs on intake manifold) to run the vcv for the distributor. Tested both VCV and used the one that works.
Only carb vacuum port from valve cover side goes directly to the inside vacuum port on the distributor. Outer port is blocked but I like the idea of having that additional advance available on command. How do I do that?
Fuel cut off is now functional. One wire, one vacuum hose plugged into #2 of three fuel filter vacuum. Third port in fuel filter vacuum is plugged.
As for charcoal, I unplugged the relay and switched the lines and capped off the intake port at the base of the carb riser. I'd love to figure out how to get the charcoal filter back online but have yet to understand where to hook it into the air cleaner.
Very excited to be working on this beast and thankful again to the community.
Phew, where do I send the check for that therapy bill?
I want as much functionality as possible. I agree about the charcoal canister and venting.
My understanding is that I want a functioning VCV for the distributor. This will prolong the life of the distributor by venting both gas fumes and any associated moisture.
I used the constant vacuum from the fuel filter vacuum (three prongs on intake manifold) to run the vcv for the distributor. Tested both VCV and used the one that works.
Only carb vacuum port from valve cover side goes directly to the inside vacuum port on the distributor. Outer port is blocked but I like the idea of having that additional advance available on command. How do I do that?
Fuel cut off is now functional. One wire, one vacuum hose plugged into #2 of three fuel filter vacuum. Third port in fuel filter vacuum is plugged.
As for charcoal, I unplugged the relay and switched the lines and capped off the intake port at the base of the carb riser. I'd love to figure out how to get the charcoal filter back online but have yet to understand where to hook it into the air cleaner.
Very excited to be working on this beast and thankful again to the community.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Chuckling cuz I think you talk as much as me... and I'm a girl.
Lots to consider. Where are you living? Seek a person who is desmoged and lives in a similar elevation.
I believe the outer port for the diz would need a blue VTV (smaller and different than a VCV) I do have one new but prob won't place it in my system because if im remembering right it would be hooked up to the HAC which I have ditched. (If after talking to folks and you need it, it's yours for shipping, just lmk).
Certain folks here have specialties in what they understand best. @mwebfj60 is phenomenal at all that stuff but he's in Cali so tweaking your system to satisfy your common ground is important to clarify.
@OSS is another guru here. Both of them explain things in such a way that it's easy to understand.
Reading days and nights on mud kinda just boggles me wicked. I've got all sorts of fsm printed as well as the 24 pg desmog PDF. It's all tricky stuff to grasp and comprehend. I had to write down my own systems picture or two... I had hoped to make it understandable but the lines ended up all over the place. And I barely get it still, but it's starting to sink in.
CC is important l. I don't recommend deleting it or swapping lines. Somewhere @FJ40Jim said swapping lines could cause a Big Bang. Reading words like that has a way of getting my attention. If it's hooked up correct and you get a whoosh, pull it and gut it. I did mine. Not hard compared to any of the other stuff I've done so far.
Have you sought out a local club? Looking at someone else's next to yours can really help tons. Most members are happy to hang out, have a few beers and dinner just to gloat over their truck.
Felicity
Lots to consider. Where are you living? Seek a person who is desmoged and lives in a similar elevation.
I believe the outer port for the diz would need a blue VTV (smaller and different than a VCV) I do have one new but prob won't place it in my system because if im remembering right it would be hooked up to the HAC which I have ditched. (If after talking to folks and you need it, it's yours for shipping, just lmk).
Certain folks here have specialties in what they understand best. @mwebfj60 is phenomenal at all that stuff but he's in Cali so tweaking your system to satisfy your common ground is important to clarify.
@OSS is another guru here. Both of them explain things in such a way that it's easy to understand.
Reading days and nights on mud kinda just boggles me wicked. I've got all sorts of fsm printed as well as the 24 pg desmog PDF. It's all tricky stuff to grasp and comprehend. I had to write down my own systems picture or two... I had hoped to make it understandable but the lines ended up all over the place. And I barely get it still, but it's starting to sink in.
CC is important l. I don't recommend deleting it or swapping lines. Somewhere @FJ40Jim said swapping lines could cause a Big Bang. Reading words like that has a way of getting my attention. If it's hooked up correct and you get a whoosh, pull it and gut it. I did mine. Not hard compared to any of the other stuff I've done so far.
Have you sought out a local club? Looking at someone else's next to yours can really help tons. Most members are happy to hang out, have a few beers and dinner just to gloat over their truck.
Felicity
- Thread starter
- #58
Woman called me out! Love it.
The diagram for the charcoal canister seems easy enough; however, where do I tie into the air cleaner? The distributor goes on the passenger side bung. Can I use the front elbow that I taped off?
It does start a whole lot easier now that the cali compliant carb is gone though. Minimal warm up before I release the choke.
Thanks again. I will be doing more reading and trying to offer up positive fixes for the community.
Comet.
The diagram for the charcoal canister seems easy enough; however, where do I tie into the air cleaner? The distributor goes on the passenger side bung. Can I use the front elbow that I taped off?
It does start a whole lot easier now that the cali compliant carb is gone though. Minimal warm up before I release the choke.
Thanks again. I will be doing more reading and trying to offer up positive fixes for the community.
Comet.
- Thread starter
- #59
Local clubs are heeps. I do have a trusted mechanic one town over. He will be rebuilding my carb.
Here's some 2F minutiae >
Although the VCVs used to control the charcoal canister venting and distributor venting are the same part, they work on different circuits which are completely separate from each other. It's just the same part (vacuum control valve) used for two different things.
The VCVs are triggered by vacuum (instead of an electric solenoid like the VSVs) and when vacuum is applied to pipe 'S' on the VCV, an internal valve opens & air can pass through the other pipes. It's a really simple doo dad.
The trigger for charcoal canister venting on a USA 2F carb is the advancer port in the carb. When the throttle is pushed down far enough, vacuum is created in that piping & the EVAP CC VCV is opened, allowing the L pipe at the base of the carb to suck vapors from the charcoal canister.
The charcoal canister is an emissions component. It's purpose is to minimize gasoline vapors evaporating in the gas tank from eeking out into the atmosphere- creating smog.
The cars of yesteryear didn't even have charcoal canisters. They just vented the tank through a vented gas cap.
The charcoal canister also has a side benefit of reducing the smell of gasoline vapors when the truck is parked. But most of that has to do with the spring loaded check valve in the CC preventing vapors from exiting in the first place.
Even if you don't care about smog & the truck doesn't require smog tests where you live, the CC serves an excellent function as an over-engineered gas tank venting repository... so it should be kept and used.
The problem with all these old charcoal canisters is that their inlet internal spring loaded check valve (which is supposed to keep -some- vapor pressure in the tank) becomes sticky. The sticky check valve then requires much higher pressures to open than it did when it was new.
This high pressure stresses the gas tank and over time can actually cause it to rupture at the seams. That's why there was a FJ60 gas tank recall.
Since the OEM CC is no longer available & the check valve can not be 'fixed' and a replacement CC was ridiculously priced in the first place, the two options are to swap the two hoses connected to the top of it (Purge & Tank) or purchase an aftermarket CC that sorta kinda doesn't really fit & make it fit.
98.35% of the FJ60 owners who don't care about these nuances just swap the hoses on the top of the CC and call it a day. If they have to smog test it, they just swap them back before the test.
Once the Tank & Purge hoses are swapped, the tank will vent freely without any pressure build up because there isn't a check valve in the purge port.
But... The CC active venting system through the EVAP VCV on the driver's side which vents to the base of the carb when it's open & you're driving - won't work.
It won't work because it will be trying to suck from the CC now on the port that has the check valve. And that valve is sealed tight.
So the moral to this long story is.... If the CC hoses are swapped, there's no need to worry about the function of the CC VCV on the driver's side - because it won't be able to suck past the stuck check valve anyway.
Might as well just plug the L pipe at the base of the carb.
Although the VCVs used to control the charcoal canister venting and distributor venting are the same part, they work on different circuits which are completely separate from each other. It's just the same part (vacuum control valve) used for two different things.
The VCVs are triggered by vacuum (instead of an electric solenoid like the VSVs) and when vacuum is applied to pipe 'S' on the VCV, an internal valve opens & air can pass through the other pipes. It's a really simple doo dad.
The trigger for charcoal canister venting on a USA 2F carb is the advancer port in the carb. When the throttle is pushed down far enough, vacuum is created in that piping & the EVAP CC VCV is opened, allowing the L pipe at the base of the carb to suck vapors from the charcoal canister.
The charcoal canister is an emissions component. It's purpose is to minimize gasoline vapors evaporating in the gas tank from eeking out into the atmosphere- creating smog.
The cars of yesteryear didn't even have charcoal canisters. They just vented the tank through a vented gas cap.
The charcoal canister also has a side benefit of reducing the smell of gasoline vapors when the truck is parked. But most of that has to do with the spring loaded check valve in the CC preventing vapors from exiting in the first place.
Even if you don't care about smog & the truck doesn't require smog tests where you live, the CC serves an excellent function as an over-engineered gas tank venting repository... so it should be kept and used.
The problem with all these old charcoal canisters is that their inlet internal spring loaded check valve (which is supposed to keep -some- vapor pressure in the tank) becomes sticky. The sticky check valve then requires much higher pressures to open than it did when it was new.
This high pressure stresses the gas tank and over time can actually cause it to rupture at the seams. That's why there was a FJ60 gas tank recall.
Since the OEM CC is no longer available & the check valve can not be 'fixed' and a replacement CC was ridiculously priced in the first place, the two options are to swap the two hoses connected to the top of it (Purge & Tank) or purchase an aftermarket CC that sorta kinda doesn't really fit & make it fit.
98.35% of the FJ60 owners who don't care about these nuances just swap the hoses on the top of the CC and call it a day. If they have to smog test it, they just swap them back before the test.
Once the Tank & Purge hoses are swapped, the tank will vent freely without any pressure build up because there isn't a check valve in the purge port.
But... The CC active venting system through the EVAP VCV on the driver's side which vents to the base of the carb when it's open & you're driving - won't work.
It won't work because it will be trying to suck from the CC now on the port that has the check valve. And that valve is sealed tight.
So the moral to this long story is.... If the CC hoses are swapped, there's no need to worry about the function of the CC VCV on the driver's side - because it won't be able to suck past the stuck check valve anyway.
Might as well just plug the L pipe at the base of the carb.
