Build Building a Tow Rig

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I know diesels don't have much vacuum so I thought it would be best to use the Dodge. I also used the Dodge brake master cylinder. They have some weird brake line thing mounted on the driver side frame on the rear axle. I did want to use a Chevy master and not have enough pressure to stop the truck.
 
I pulled the 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Diesel engine out of my 1990 Dodge.

:confused:
I would have sold the Chebby, the '90 Dodge & other parts around the yard & just bought a '92 or '93 W250 or W350. You can find *some under $5K I'm sure. I see 'em on Ebay all the time..... I know yer wife said you couldn't buy one, but for all the time you are spending + D60 shipping, etc. you could have convinced :princess: in this case it would be *better to buy another used tow rig. JMHO, lookin good on the build :hillbilly:
 
DWitcher said:
No way! I understand the work and money involved but for conversation and coolness..........It'll ROCK!:bounce:
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I'm sure it will ;p
I don't get fired up about a stock type tow rig build. Sure, it takes some creativity, but I though this forum was about building up HARDCORE rock crawlin rigs? I LIKE THE BUILDUP, just sayin' I'd rather concentrate my skills on links, cages, custom axles, etc..... Again Just my opinion. Keep up the fawesome build! :bounce:
 
A build up is a build up right? I understand it's not Toyota but it's still Hardcore. It's nice to change it up every now and then.:beer:
 
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I've put more time and effort into this rig than I have my

Build FJ40
FJ45 Extended Cab
FJ60 Expedition Rig

My original plan was to intall a Cummins in the old style GMC. That was just not going to work since the 72 GMC frame was too narrow and cutting it and chanelling it would become a major safety factory. I regrouped my thoughts and started with pretty much a frame and built up from there.

This is my first Diesel engine conversion.

:beer:

If one of the three super mods want to delete or move it to other vehicle section, it is up to them. (As I stated in post #30.) :grinpimp:
 
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Maybe I missed it or misunderstood and if you already know this then it's just extra tech. To run brakes off of a diesel you have two choices.

1. Convert to hydroboost and run it off of the power steering pump. This really is the better way to go considering you will be using this as a tow rig. With your cummins you will definitely be able to get going but with a load I'm sure you'll want to stop and stop well. It has a small compressed gas cylinder on it to provide a pump or two if the engine dies.

2. Use a vacuum pump to run your booster. Cummins has a integrated vacuum/power steering pump like the one pictured or you could get a separate pump to run off a belt to produce the vacuum.

I don't think hooking up a line to the manifold is going to cut it for powering your brakes.
vac pump.webp
 
Thanks

The engine is staying the stock 5.9l. If it had a vacuum pump is still has one.

One reason I modified the vacuum booster mounting bracket was so I could use the Dodge vacumm booster and brake master cylinder and not the one from the GM.

boots4 said:
Maybe I missed it or misunderstood and if you already know this then it's just extra tech. To run brakes off of a diesel you have two choices.

1. Convert to hydroboost and run it off of the power steering pump. This really is the better way to go considering you will be using this as a tow rig. With your cummins you will definitely be able to get going but with a load I'm sure you'll want to stop and stop well. It has a small compressed gas cylinder on it to provide a pump or two if the engine dies.

2. Use a vacuum pump to run your booster. Cummins has a integrated vacuum/power steering pump like the one pictured or you could get a separate pump to run off a belt to produce the vacuum.

I don't think hooking up a line to the manifold is going to cut it for powering your brakes.
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Had a few hours to work on it last night.

Installed the Dodge Master Cylinder for the clutch. (What a plasic piece of crap that is.) installed the slave cylinder on the bellhousing.

Installed new waterpump and Serp belt.
Mounted the radiator support and the radiator. Bolted in place.
Passenger side fender is loosly mounted.
I put some junk 33"s on it so I would sit a little level.

R&R fluid in the T-case, Transmission, Rear Axle. Added fluid to the front axle.

Installed Extended rear brake line.
 
:bounce:You should have smelled some Sunday evening. :bounce:



The wind was blowing south. It fired right up. I booty fabed a front driveshaft to make sure it would move under it's own power, It does.

Now it's time to order a front driveshaft, 4"11's for the rear and a rear driveshaft.

My buddy is installing the front clip on it tonight for me.
 
D'Animal said:
My buddy is installing the front clip on it tonight for me.
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My buddy was a no show after work. He had to take his 4y/o son to hospital.

I was able to get the inner fenders cut out and loosely mounted. The out fenders are loosely mounted as well. Hood latch is loosely mounted.

Rusty fender clips are non-reusable.
 
lol, man wish someone would have said something, or i check in a bit more often.

cummins fits in chevy frame, loose the dodge a/c and buy one bracket
moves its postion and bolt it back in, or run no A/C USE 2nd gen not 1st gen motor
mounts, well you have 1st gen stuff but the vibes are alot less with 2nd. easier to
fab mounts as well really. not sure on the remove the motor to pull the starter ???

dodge brakes, specific to 1st gen, well this is the WORST thing on a dodge, rear
ebrakes are CRAP dodge vacuum booster and master is CRAP. loose the abs stuff in
the rear, trash it all, go GM hydroboost. and swap to different e brake setup, can
go bigger bore rear brake cylinders. no worries on if and when the vacuum pump will
go out or not, can get a direct drive PS pump or just run it through the vacuum pump
as it is setup now.

you did 4" diesel springs or thier 4" gas springs, ie part number. dont need an adjustable
drag for the 4" gas spring, run factory. AND THEY WILL settle in.

thinking dodge frame vs chevy cab is just sticking it to you, nothing looks remotely close
and looks like way to much work ;) chevy frame :)

BTW you passed me probably on your travels, i have the rad support :)
 
HI^C said:
you did 4" diesel springs or thier 4" gas springs, ie part number. dont need an adjustable
drag for the 4" gas spring, run factory. AND THEY WILL settle in.

:)
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Thanks for the input.

I installed 4" diesel springs. I have not done anything to the back yet. If I were to level it out right now, I would need 2" blocks. I heard the fronts will settle so I will wait a bit before doring anything to the back.
 
Ran into a bit of a snag.

I tried to install 4:11's in the rear. I could not get the backlash even close. I had 2 - 0.100" shims as well as a .035" shim on the left. I had one .065" shim on the right. The backlash was still 3/8".

Since I thought I was in over my head I took it to my local 4x4 shop. They could not see anything I did wrong. After a few phone calls I found that a 1990 2wd Dodge Dana 70 with stock 3:03 is an Uber rare housing. Not valuable, just oddball.

The pinion is offset in the housing. The only way to to install 4:11's is to install a specific built Detroit Locker.

I had the option of finding a Dana 70 U rear end or install the Detroit. I already had new brakes, wheel cylinders, drums turned, etc on this one. I opted for the Detroit.

The correct driveshafts should be in middle of next week.

They are "cleaning up" my wiring while waiting on parts.
 
Snag, hell! Sounds like an opportunity for an upgrade, hehe.
 
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