Build: 40th Anniversary Restoration

[Charles4x4]

97 40th Anniversary Axle Swap and Dobinsons Suspension Upgrades Part 4:

Fully Rebuilt Factory Locking Front Axle installed and Dobinspn Flexi Coils with IMS Shocks all done for the front. Also added new brakes pads and rotors, Slee caster plates, Slee Sway Bar Drop Brackets, Extended Stainless Steel Brake Lines, and all new Diff Breathers front and rear. Glad this part of the rebuild is done.

Next up: Bleed Brakes, Diff Fluid, Wire Lockers, etc.

 

[Charles4x4]

I appreciate you sharing your restoration. I am also restoring a 40th anniversary and want to pick you brain regarding fender flare pads. Most I’ve seen go with the oem or generic black padding, but the original grey is NLA. Someone suggested pads from a 04-06 tundra and I ordered a set to see if the color would look right. What do you think?

I bought a full set of OEM ones off EBay. I thought they were gray but will have to look. They are buried in boxes right now while I do all the drivetrain and suspension stuff. I’ll dig into them more once it comes back from paint!

 

[Charles4x4]

Even though my 97’s power mirrors weren’t bad, shaky mirror syndrome was only a matter of time. So while I had them out for paint next week, I installed the Solvefunction remedy. Solid design, should cure the mirrors for good!

Bracket to fix shakey mirror on FJ80

Commonly the mirrors bracket breaks on the outside rear view mirrors. Comes with stainless steel screws made for use in plastic that are a little longer. Tabs will need to be cut, if not already broken off. Marked with a L or R to designate side of vehicle, L for Drivers and R for Passenger...

solvefunction.com

 

[Charles4x4]

Help Needed - Lockers Won’t Engage
97 40th Anniversary Axle Swap and Dobinsons Suspension Upgrades Part 5:

Today I spent the afternoon installing the OEM wiring for these exact factory locking axles, new OEM actuator, new OEM switch, and new OEM bulbs/sockets in the instrument cluster. Unfortunately neither locker would engage - both lights just kept blinking.

The lockers probably haven’t been engaged in a decade, so I’m guessing they are just stuck. Any ideas from the 80 Series braintrust? I tried tapping them gently with a hammer then forward and reverse 25x, but no luck.

 

[ikarus]

Were you in 4 hi or 4 low? Have you installed a CDL switch or done the pin 7 mod?

I believe lockers only engage once the CDL is locked, which happens automatically once you're in 4 low.

Lockers in high range?

I've been playing with my new '97 LX and my curiosity has now reached the lockers. I experimented for a while in an empty parking lot this morning before work and discovered I can only get the lockers engaged in low range. Is this stock config? Seems silly that I can't be locked in high...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Charles4x4]

Were you in 4 hi or 4 low? Have you installed a CDL switch or done the pin 7 mod?

I believe lockers only engage once the CDL is locked, which happens automatically once you're in 4 low.

Lockers in high range?

I've been playing with my new '97 LX and my curiosity has now reached the lockers. I experimented for a while in an empty parking lot this morning before work and discovered I can only get the lockers engaged in low range. Is this stock config? Seems silly that I can't be locked in high...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes, I realized that and just now went ahead and did the CDL Switch and Pin 7 Mod. CDL is definitely engaged. Tested it out, but lockers still aren’t engaging.

 

[duece71]

Yes, I realized that and just now went ahead and did the CDL Switch and Pin 7 Mod. CDL is definitely engaged. Tested it out, but lockers still aren’t engaging.

I have noticed recently that it took some driving, forwards and backwards for the lockers to engage. The lights flash and after forwards and backwards turn solid.

 

[Charles4x4]

Update: After a bunch of research, I got the CDL to engage. To fix it, I took the CDL Sensor out of the front of the T-Case, tapped it with a spanner wrench, and exercised it a few times. I also checked the CDL Bulb and it seemed fine. After those two things, the CDL Light came on with no issues. Before, I was jumping the CDL Switch and still got no light, so I'm guessing messing with the bulb might have fixed that end of the problem and working the sensor fixed the other.

Once the CDL was up and running, my Front Locker worked flawlessly. No luck on the Rear Locker just yet (light flashing), but I'm going to pull it and plug it into the Front Locker harness to if it's electrical or just gunked up inside. If electrical, I'll trace it and see. If it's gunked up, I'll have to open it up and check it out. I'll also be confirming it isn't in the Locked position right now at the same time (I'm 99% sure it isn't from driving it, but want to jack it up and turn the tires to confirm 100%).

 

[ppc]

Rear factory lockers are notoriously more difficult to lock as compared the front locker. Design is different which accounts for part of the problem. It's easier to get the splines aligned because you turn left or right. In the rear you have to do figure eights and such to get movement for the splines to matchup and lock.

@Charles4x4 , both front rear lockers have the same type of sensor switch. Before anything else make they are working in the rear. Remove the sensor and test off the truck. Unfortunately shorting of the pins of the connector is more involved by design related to the operation of the diff lock ecu. The CDL does not have the flashing light, if it doesn't lock.

 

[Charles4x4]

Another Locker Update:

Short Version:
I got my rear locker actuator to lock finally after swapping in new factory locking axles, but now it won’t unlock. At first it would lock and unlock when plugged into the front wiring. But then when I plugged it into the rear wiring for the first time, it locked but didn’t unlock. Surprised, I then plugged it into the front wiring again to see if I could get it to unlock that way but it wouldn’t unlock. It is still locked now reinstalled back in the rear axle.

Long Version:
After swapping in Factory Locking Axles while redoing my suspension on the 97 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser, I’ve been having some issues with the lockers. After fixing my CDL Sensor, I finally got the Front Locker to lock. With the rear refusing to lock, I pulled the rear locker actuator and plugged it into the front while sitting it on a stool. It would lock (rod out) and unlock (rod in) perfectly. So, I knew it was electrical.

That’s when I found out they my 97’s body harness didn’t have the 5 wires needed for the locker (I had read that 96/97 models should have been wired for lockers in the body harness, but no luck on my 97). Luckily I have a body harness from the vehicle I got the axles from, so I carefully plugged them into the right slots of my 97 harness (and triple checked them).

I then tried locking the rear again with the actuator out of the housing (sitting it on a stool again), and this time it worked (so I thought the electrical issue was resolved ). But when I went to unlock it, it wouldn’t unlock. So I unplugged it from the rear and plugged it back into the front but it again wouldn’t unlock. So, I installed it in the Lock Position in the rear axle and tired a few Figure 8s and Forward/Reverse but no luck.

So I guess I have a few questions:
1) What triggers the rear locker to actuate and unlock?

2) Is there any way that me plugging it into the rear harness and cycling it on made the rod go too far and get stuck somehow? It had no problem going in and out when plugged into the front harness so I’m not sure why that would have caused an issue. I just don’t know why it wouldn’t cycle the rod back in while plugged into the rear wiring (just sitting on a stoll not in the housing).

3) I’m pretty sure it isn’t the wiring because it would lock and unlock when plugged into the front originally and it would lock when plugged into the rear but then wouldn’t unlock when plugged into the rear OR the front wiring.

Any ideas?

 

[Charles4x4]

Update:
All Lockers Finally Work! After swapping in factor locking axles, new Dobinsons suspension, and fighting with the lockers, the 40th Anniversary cruiser is officially triple locked with solid diff lock lights on all three. Here’s what I learned:

1) Fot my cruiser, the PO didn’t run the lockers for 30years so I had to pull all the locker sensors to clean and “exercise” them a bunch of times to wake them up. Once done, the CDL and Front Locker worked flawlessly.

2) My non-factory locking 97 did NOT have the locker wiring in the body harness. I had the harness from the donor, but it was from an older year cruiser I guess as they didn’t match up at all. So, I stripped the 5 rear locker wires out and plugged them into my 97 factory harness. I then ran the underbody wiring harness and the final harness down to the locker itself. I had read that 96/97 LX450s had the locker wiring in the body harness and I had assumed mine did too, but it didn’t.

3) I’m now an expert on all things rear locker actuators, just not by choice. If your rear locker doesn’t work and you’re confirmed it isn’t a wiring issue, most likely it is either gummed up inside or clean but one of the magnets has broken off in the motor. Mine was super clean (almost like new inside) but 1 of the 4 magnets had broken off in mine and was preventing the motor from turning. If you ever open up the actuator, try to hold the top worm gear in place. As soon as the coil and shaft come out, there are 2 springs and 2 metal squares that pop out and are super hard to get back into place. Avoid it if you can, and if not, be patient and get ready to use some really thin tools to hold them in while sliding the coil mechanism in place. It took my wife and I more attempts than I want to admit to get everything lined up perfectly. Once in place, for final “clocking”, I set the shaft to Unlock, inserted the bolt through the shaft, then inserted the big gear/springs/small gear assembly in the Unlocked position as well. This made it fast and easy for final install.

CDL, Front, and Rear Lockers All work great!

Next up: Paint and Body!

 

[Charles4x4]

While I still haven't installed mine (has to get through Paint first), I had a few people ask me about Toyota OEM Part Numbers for Window and Door Seals. The only one I had an issue with was the Door Glass Channel - I think it may share a part number with FJ40 Door Glass Channels or maybe they are the same. I'll find out eventually I guess. I got most of these from another iH8Mud thread, so I take no credit.

LH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67862-60073
Window run: 68151-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75720-60021

RH Front:
Weatherstrip: 67861-60073
Window run: 68141-60010
Door glass channel: 69971-60020
Door molding: 75710-60021

LH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67872-60043
Window run: 68152-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68189-60010
Door molding: 75740-60020

RH Rear:
Weatherstrip: 67871-60043
Window run: 68142-60011
Door glass channel: 69971-90D00
Small window run: 68188-60010
Door molding: 75730-60020

LH 3rd row:
Window run: 62756-60010
Weatherstrip: 62742-60040
Molding: 75670-60020

RH 3rd row:
Window run: 62755-60010
Weatherstrip: 62741-60040
Molding: 75660-60020

 

[Charles4x4]

While I really didn’t need another project right now, an opportunity presented itself and I now have a second 40th Anniversary land cruiser. This one in Dark Emerald Pearl (zero rust of course). Paint and body is really great, but interior and 40th anniversary molding (missing) needs attention. I’ll work on this one while the Antique Sage Pearl 40th Anniversary one is in at paint I guess.

If anyone has a lead on a set of factory locking axles (with wiring, actuator, and switch), factory exhaust from the upstream O2 sensor out the back, or front Mudflaps, please DM me.

Let the fun begin!

 

[Charles4x4]

Officially dropped the Antique Sage Pearl 40th Anniversary LC off for paint this morning. At the same time, I picked up my Black 85 SR5 4Runner that he just wrapped up for me and had been working on for a few months. Excited to see how well the 40th Anniversary LC comes out!

 

[Xland]

@Charles4x4 I’m into an almost exact mission. I swapped 1995 triple locked axels under my 1994 rig. Before the swap I freshened up coatings and everything else I had temporary access to. The locker module, switch, and front drop harness all had a socket waiting for them, and seem to have worked. The rear locker does not respond. The successful actuation at the front locker tells me the switch, module, and front drop harness are fine. I have the main body harness in my garage and have already swapped out the rear cross harness and drop harness. I had a look at the connections for the body and cross harness sockets at the back of the vehicle while I was linking them up. Every receptacle has a pin for both the cross and body harness. I’m hoping for confirmation that the body harness you swapped out was missing the 6 pins needed for the lockers. If so, I’ll troubleshoot elsewhere and not waste time swapping out body harnesses.

 

[ppc]

Pinouts on the harness to the rear locker had different pinouts. You need to verify with what you have to the electrical wiring diagrams. This has been documented in at least one thread on this forum.

 

[Charles4x4]

@Charles4x4 I’m into an almost exact mission. I swapped 1995 triple locked axels under my 1994 rig. Before the swap I freshened up coatings and everything else I had temporary access to. The locker module, switch, and front drop harness all had a socket waiting for them, and seem to have worked. The rear locker does not respond. The successful actuation at the front locker tells me the switch, module, and front drop harness are fine. I have the main body harness in my garage and have already swapped out the rear cross harness and drop harness. I had a look at the connections for the body and cross harness sockets at the back of the vehicle while I was linking them up. Every receptacle has a pin for both the cross and body harness. I’m hoping for confirmation that the body harness you swapped out was missing the 6 pins needed for the lockers. If so, I’ll troubleshoot elsewhere and not waste time swapping out body harnesses.

Yes, that’s correct. Check the main body harness. I’m guessing it’s missing 6 pins. If so, I’d pull those wires out of the body harness in your garage and plug them into your existing body harness unless they match up perfectly (mine didn’t). Then I bet you’re good to go!

 

[Xland]

Pinouts on the harness to the rear locker had different pinouts. You need to verify with what you have to the electrical wiring diagrams. This has been documented in at least one thread on this forum.

Noted. Thanks for the advice. @Charles4x4 and his post are the first I’ve found with info relevant to my case. Any idea what the threads are called? Locker pin out?

 

[Xland]

Yes, that’s correct. Check the main body harness. I’m guessing it’s missing 6 pins. If so, I’d pull those wires out of the body harness in your garage and plug them into your existing body harness unless they match up perfectly (mine didn’t). Then I bet you’re good to go!

Appreciate the response! I’ll have another look at the body harness to cross harness connections and verify that wires match. Brakes, corner markers, and license plate light all came back fine with the swapped cross harness.. fingers I don’t have to mess with it any more.

 

[Charles4x4]

Noted. Thanks for the advice. @Charles4x4 and his post are the first I’ve found with info relevant to my case. Any idea what the threads are called? Locker pin out?

Honestly, I just looked at the locked body harness and the unlocked harness. Found the 6-wires in the locked harness that weren’t in the unlocked harness. Then swapped them in one at a time so I didn’t screw it up. That kept everything OEM including wire, wire position, wire colors, etc.