I'm just wondering, I have the abs and parking brake light on with the buzzer, brakes have very little stopping power. Is anything besides the booster/master cylinder ever the cause of this? TIA
Brake failure anything besides the master cylinder/booster assembly?
- Thread starter James Cody
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Low fluid in the brake reservoir? Broken wire in this line? Stuck floater inside the reservoir?
98% chance it's the abs accumulator motor that has gone bad
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- #4
The brake fluid is actually high, after pumping 40 times. Not sure where I read to do that. No visible damage or leaks. I'll look in the reservoir and see what I can see.
I had the same issue with my 4runner two years ago, and now again with my LC100 this weekend. I watched Jungle Cat's video on you tube. He changed his whole unit and then took the motor apart to show the worn metal contacts and brushes. Technically, you could take that motor apart and check for wear, clean the contacts and put it back in.... Jungle Cat's video is good. Check the last few minutes for the motor details I mentioned.
Essentially, that motor is pressurizing your fluid. If it isn't pressurizing due to a leak, you'll get all the flashing lights and noise.
If the motor isn't turning on because the brushes and contacts are worn out, then you get no pressure, and again you get the noise and lights.
Basically, you just follow the pressure.
One way to check:
Turn the car off, open the hood, turn the key to the on (not start) position and go listen to the motor on the bottom of your brake assembly.
It should run for about 30 seconds and you should see fluid leave the reservoir as it pressurizes the metal cylinder on the side.
If that motor does not come on, check the metal contacts on the bottom for corrosion. There is a little black cap over the connection.
If that is clean and it doesn't come on, you probably have worn brushes in the motor.
If it does come on, and you see fluid leave to the reservoir to pressure tank, it should only take 30 seconds or so. Then the motor should turn off.
If you have a leak, the pressure will release back into the reservoir. To check, leave the car overnight and see if it fills back up. If so, the motor may have been running overtime trying to keep pressure and worn itself out.
Let me know. Mine had a leak and I chose to replace the whole unit $1500 from toyota in Lakeland. In the shop as we speak getting it swapped by my mechanic.
Essentially, that motor is pressurizing your fluid. If it isn't pressurizing due to a leak, you'll get all the flashing lights and noise.
If the motor isn't turning on because the brushes and contacts are worn out, then you get no pressure, and again you get the noise and lights.
Basically, you just follow the pressure.
One way to check:
Turn the car off, open the hood, turn the key to the on (not start) position and go listen to the motor on the bottom of your brake assembly.
It should run for about 30 seconds and you should see fluid leave the reservoir as it pressurizes the metal cylinder on the side.
If that motor does not come on, check the metal contacts on the bottom for corrosion. There is a little black cap over the connection.
If that is clean and it doesn't come on, you probably have worn brushes in the motor.
If it does come on, and you see fluid leave to the reservoir to pressure tank, it should only take 30 seconds or so. Then the motor should turn off.
If you have a leak, the pressure will release back into the reservoir. To check, leave the car overnight and see if it fills back up. If so, the motor may have been running overtime trying to keep pressure and worn itself out.
Let me know. Mine had a leak and I chose to replace the whole unit $1500 from toyota in Lakeland. In the shop as we speak getting it swapped by my mechanic.
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Sales happen 3 to 6 times a year. They've lasted ,1 to 2 weeks generally.
Eric at Toyota of Decatur. Is the only Toyota parts guy I know of, that takes the time to repack. Even front drive shafts (CV) and rack & pinions come undamaged.
Looks like I need to make room for more parts!...
