Brake drum removal?

[Lor]

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've search the forum, but didn't find any info.

I just want to remove the drum to check on the brake shoes. I couldn't get the drum off. There's one threaded hole (12mm - I think) and one big hole on the drum. I tried to thread a screw/bolt in there, but it stripped. I banged the drum with a regular hammer (wood in between) without any success. Does anyone have any tip on removing this thing? I really would like to check this out because I haven't been able to take it off since I bought this FJ40 two years ago.

 

[bustanutley]

I'm assuming your truck drives if so it shouldn't be seized

When I break my front end I stick a screw driver in that hole and pry the drum off. There are two holes across from each other, pry evenly and it should fall off.

 

[Ian Rogers]

ok it sounds like your drums have not been taken off in years. So what happens is that is the pads wear out you adj. the weel cyl. out so that the pads stay in conctact with the drums. this will make a 'lip' in the drum on the inner edge. you will need to back down your weel cyl. to remove the drum. if i recall you would move the screw driver away from the axel.

 

[Trevor]

If the drum isn't even loose on the flange, then use a bigger hammer. 4 lb should do it. Don't worry about placing wood on there, just beat the hell out of it. It took me 20 minutes on each side, along with some PB Blaster to get mine loose.

 

[heavytlc]

If you use a hammer, facing the drum hit at 2'oclock aiming at 7, and 10 aiming at 5. It will help walk the drum forward, and is better then beating it to death.

 

[3_puppies]

front or rear? rear you can hit the axle right in the middle with a bfh or sledge.

 

[dd113]

Try to adj the cylinders in but chances are they will not move. Try a few times with different tools. Then get pissed off and get the biggest hammer you own and beat the crap out of it. I have had to use cold chisles in the hole you mention to move it.

 

[CruisinTiger]

I had the same problem with mine. The guy I bought it from had put cylinders from texas cruisers on they were longer than stock toyota cylinders. Well they basically exploded and pushed the pads against the cylinders. I had to stick a screwdriver in those holes and beat at it so it would pry off, alternating between the two holes. It's a pain in the ass but it'll come off. I'm not sure where you order most of your parts from, but I have found to stick with true toyota parts from the dealership for your breaks. If ya need anymore help with it just send me a note. I had to replace everything on both my front cylinders, and I did it with no help so I'm more than willin to share what knowledge I've learned from it cause it's a pain if you've never done it before.

 

[65swb45]

If it doesn't move at all, it's stuck to the flange. If it moves a little, it's stuck to the brakes.

If it's a front and doesn't move at all, pull your hub and outer wheel bearing and take the drum off with the hub. Your wheel bearings needed grease anyway!

If it's a rear and it's frozen to the axle, get a bigger hammer and don't baby it! The world is full of cast off Landcruiser brake drums.

I've also had frozen, overadjusted wheel cylinders where I pulled the brake lines and all the wheel cylinder bolts and then pulled the drum off with the shoes and cylinders all in one shot!

 

[Lor]

Thanks for all your inputs. I couldn't pull it off, so I put the tires back on. It's the rear. The front is disc. I will have to get a sledge hammer. Heck, I tried three or four times just to take the front hub out so that I can check on the bearings and replace a broken stud without any success. Anyone near me that is willing to show me? I do most of my maintenance work, but don't know why I couldn't figure this out. I'm around Seattle area (Federal Way). Thanks again.

Lor