Brake Booster Failure.......................Confirmation, Please?

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The difference between getting the distance correct is as little as the thickness of a washer, I have had to adjust a couple that were too tight, keeping the brakes on, I first experienced this in the late 70's on a Ford Corsair.

More recently on a call out with a similar problem, I had to pull the master cylinder off the mounting bolts and slipped a washer on each of the studs, with the master bolted back in place the brakes then remained perfect for the rest of his journey. The washers a mere 1/6th of an inch.

regards

Dave
 
I, of course, don't have the special tool. I'll measure the old one to get me started and go from there to the grease trick. Thanks errbody!
 
Took me 16 minutes to remove the old one, which I discovered is NOT factory. I've had the rig for almost 3 years & 50K miles so it did okay. Hopefully the new one goes in as easy as this one came out! :cheers:
 
Your symptoms sound exactly as mine did. Replaced booster (after first looking the grommet and fitting) and that fixed it.

Mine was intermittent, but it failed completely two days later.
 
Took about 35 minutes to replace so less than 1 hour R&R. Not too bad since I haven't done one in 10+ years and that was on old Chevy trucks. Brakes work way better now. Thanks for all yall's help!
 
And it's not even the correct part number for your year.

Thanks for letting me know !

Any chance it is still available? The original lasted 21 years, my truck was built in 5/95, and I would like to get the OEM part. I'm probably going to get OEM booster too.
 
I just had my brake booster fail. What reman brand are people having good luck with?
 
Yes its booster I had the same problem and its a bit difficult to replace because the bolts are so long when pulling booster out it hits the manifold I would suggest using OEM replacement because after market comes with plastic connector for vacum and does not seal as well as metal one on original booster. but any way you can wiggle it out you may need 2x4 to apply pressure to engine by moving it just an inch or to over to clear the manifold.
 
I think I will just go with the OEM booster. Being quoted $500 CDN from the local dealer or approx. $350 USD. Seems like a decent price relative to iffy quality aftermarket or reman options.
 
I have the, oh s*** leg day brake pedal, I ordered me a new booster, I look forward to change it :eek:, I have done them on BMW cars and they are a PITA, and yes I will be pulling my drives side seat out :flipoff2:
 
Took about 35 minutes to replace so less than 1 hour R&R. Not too bad since I haven't done one in 10+ years and that was on old Chevy trucks. Brakes work way better now. Thanks for all yall's help!
Well, this one has gone out. Last couple of days there's been a super tough pedal so I'll be replacing it again. Mine is the Brake Best booster from O'reilly for $250. Lasted 14 months to the day. :mad:
 
Well, this one has gone out. Last couple of days there's been a super tough pedal so I'll be replacing it again. Mine is the Brake Best booster from O'reilly for $250. Lasted 14 months to the day. :mad:

Operator error. :flipoff2:
 
Ha! Nah. Just a POS non OEM part. Good thing is, I should be able to R&R in 30 minutes this time! Next time we meet up I'll teach you how to turn a wrench.
:rofl:
 
Ha! Nah. Just a POS non OEM part. Good thing is, I should be able to R&R in 30 minutes this time! Next time we meet up I'll teach you how to turn a wrench.
:rofl:

As long as you show me how to bust a hole in the wall on a scooter afterwards. :grinpimp:
 
My booster in the 40th was bad when I bought it w/ 360K on the OE one.

As it was dying it had moments where it was better than other times, if that helps anyone diagnose theirs.

1 new booster & problem solved.
 
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