BP51 lift and second thoughts on 35’s

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Roanoke VA
Picked up a new to me 2016 that has a BP51 lift and uca’s already installed, on factory rims and stock size BFG tires. I’m taking it to TEQ in Raleigh in a few weeks for some work and then aftermarket rims and 35” tires. Obviously this will require some trimming, bmc, and other stuff to fit but TEQ seems confident on that size working.

Now since doing more research on the lift and tires for these 200’s I’m discovering that the BP51 lift is only good for about 2” of lift and I’m pretty much there now (2721 rear spring) and any adjustment higher will suffer performance issues. The truck does not feel very tall or lifted on its current setup, but I’ve never been around a stock 200 to compare.

With that being said I’m thinking of stepping back from going to 35” tires and down to something more manageable like a 275/75/17 instead.

Wondering the hives thoughts on this move? My wife wants the truck to look pretty tall and rugged (make it as tall and as big of a tire as possible was her exact instruction), but we do off-road and this is her daily driver so I want to be reasonable on what we do.

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I run the same BP51 and 35s setup. Mine are 35x11.5 and are on +25 offset wheels. I needed to do a KDSS relo to keep them from contacting the sway bar and KDSS arm, but otherwise they fit my setup without issue. YMMV depending on wheel offset, tire width (if you go with 35x12.5), and alignment settings… make sure you dial in 3+ degrees of caster.

I had 34s before (285/75r17) and had slight sway bar and KDSS rubbing until I did the relo kit. Every larger tire requires removing the mud flaps and massaging the fender liner. IMO anything 34”+ will take a little work but is doable
 
I run the same BP51 and 35s setup. Mine are 35x11.5 and are on +25 offset wheels. I needed to do a KDSS relo to keep them from contacting the sway bar and KDSS arm, but otherwise they fit my setup without issue. YMMV depending on wheel offset, tire width (if you go with 35x12.5), and alignment settings… make sure you dial in 3+ degrees of caster.

I had 34s before (285/75r17) and had slight sway bar and KDSS rubbing until I did the relo kit. Every larger tire requires removing the mud flaps and massaging the fender liner. IMO anything 34”+ will take a little work but is doable
So I think we were going to try 35x12.50, but I said an 11.50 would be fine if needed. My Raceline wheels however only have a 0 offset, maybe they are planning to use spacers?
 
0 offset will poke an additional inch outward from my +25. I think that plus 12.5” width will contact your fenders. Even 34x11.5” might be an issue unless you extend the bump stops, or roll the fenders.

I’ve towed with my setup and on full rear hits the tires tuck in but just barely. And the fronts have been good even crossed up on trails, but there’s maybe 1” of fender clearance. I wish I had a good pic of that.

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So I think we were going to try 35x12.50, but I said an 11.50 would be fine if needed. My Raceline wheels however only have a 0 offset, maybe they are planning to use spacers?

Offset has more impact on fitment than lift. Adding more won’t help.

0 offset is going to cause you a ton of problems in terms of getting clearances along the entire suspension cycle. It can be done but it’s a ton of work man.
 
0 offset will poke an additional inch outward from my +25. I think that plus 12.5” width will contact your fenders. Even 34x11.5” might be an issue unless you extend the bump stops, or roll the fenders.

I’ve towed with my setup and on full rear hits the tires tuck in but just barely. And the fronts have been good even crossed up on trails, but there’s maybe 1” of fender clearance. I wish I had a good pic of that.

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Ahh so it’s backwards, lower offset more poke? Well now I’m concerned about the wheels themselves.
 
Ahh so it’s backwards, lower offset more poke? Well now I’m concerned about the wheels themselves.

To echo others, +0 offset is a no go as it'll require hacking the body mount and sheet metal to make even narrows work. Or limit uptravel which will take away all the suspension travel goodness.
 
Factory wheels with a 1” spacer I think are ideal. That’s about +35 offset
 
Oof, sounds like those wheels are a no go then.
It will be a lot of work to make them fit without contact if you’re going to off-road it at all. Fender rolling, possible BMC, possibly longer bump stops. If you’re not trying to achieve “max stance” I would look at +25 to +35 options. It’ll be sooo much easier to make any tire work as it’s not just the potential to compress into the fender, but also the arc of the wheel when turning is wider and is more likely to make contact with the body mount or sway bar
 
For what its worth, I have BP51, SPC upper control arms and 305/70r17 on methods with a 0 offset. I know its not 35's but these are some beefy tires and I have not had one issue with them. I have tackled may of Colorado trails and all is good.

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I currently have 35x10.5R17 with 0 offset wheels. I have trimmed plastic, and removed my front mudflaps... Cycled the truck's suspension many times. No need for body mount chop or anything radical. I do not currently rub but I agree offset and tire width are major factors. But my tires are pizza cutters and I couldn't find a decent set of rock warriors this time around so I bought cheaper nomad wheels.
 
I currently have 35x10.5R17 with 0 offset wheels. I have trimmed plastic, and removed my front mudflaps... Cycled the truck's suspension many times. No need for body mount chop or anything radical. I do not currently rub but I agree offset and tire width are major factors. But my tires are pizza cutters and I couldn't find a decent set of rock warriors this time around so I bought cheaper nomad wheels.
That seems reasonable and is good info. I’m on 35x11.5 with +25 offset. So your 10.5” wide tires are 1/2” further out when on 0 offset. So based on that I could likely run 35x12.5 on +25 offset…
 
For what its worth, I have BP51, SPC upper control arms and 305/70r17 on methods with a 0 offset. I know its not 35's but these are some beefy tires and I have not had one issue with them. I have tackled may of Colorado trails and all is good.

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The only way this works is if you have really stiff suspension, limiting bumpstops, or both and you're not fully cycling the suspension. Just looking out for those fenders as this has played out time and time again.
 
Caster, or more specifically what's needed out of the alignment eccentrics to get it into range, could also be a factor.
 
I ended up doing 285/75/17 on 0 offset on the assurance from the off-road shop that 0 offset would work despite my concern. I don’t see how they will work off-road, and it looks silly imo. Swapping to 2+25 methods even though they aren’t as nice looking.
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Caster, or more specifically what's needed out of the alignment eccentrics to get it into range, could also be a factor.

For body mount, yes.

For fenders, camber may help but not even close to enough.

For the rear axle, no provisions for any alignment to prevent eating the fenders.
 
Here to show my 200 with 10k + miles and dozens of trails on zero offset wheels and 35x 10.5’s. I’ve said it other places and I’ll say it here again.

They dont get into the body at full articulation.
They don’t stick out past the body.
They don’t rub body mounts.
They don’t rub on the kdss.

If you don’t like the aesthetic, totally understandable. But the formula works and it’s been proven to work with stock and aftermarket bumpers.

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Here to show my 200 with 10k + miles and dozens of trails on zero offset wheels and 35x 10.5’s. I’ve said it other places and I’ll say it here again.

They dont get into the body at full articulation.
They don’t stick out past the body.
They don’t rub body mounts.
They don’t rub on the kdss.

If you don’t like the aesthetic, totally understandable. But the formula works and it’s been proven to work with stock and aftermarket bumpers.

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I second this statement

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+25 offset seems to be the sweet spot on the 200, so that's what I went with. I've been on the fence over 35s as well and I go back and forth. I'm on BFG 275/75 now, which run small. I've been considering swapping to a 35x11.5, but seriously considering just staying on 275/75 but swapping to Toyo or Falken, which are closer to a true 34. Not sure yet but still have a few months to decide...
 
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