Bosch primer pump

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Radd Cruisers said:
So, check the country of origin on these particular parts very carefully.

~John
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Country of origin doesn't matter at all, the only concern is how well it is made.
I don't know or care where my bosch primer was made, it works perfectly.
 
Just bought one myself , when i get it , il post the info.. It looks like a bosch box from the add. We Will See

VT

Edit : bought mine as a spare part , as needed.
 
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muskeg said:
Hello diesel42, lostmarbles and others. I am a shop teacher in northern BC new to the diesel world as well as the world of forums so please bare with me.My 3B starts fantastic thanks to new 10.5 v ngk glow plugs wired direct and runs fantastic untill it suddenly dies after several minutes with significant air accumulated in the injection pump.I know I need a new primer pump but havent been able to find one through mercedes benze parts or the bosch #'s with my local parts stores BUT I noticed an o-ring at the top of the plunger and assumed that if it was tightly threaded closed it would seal. I have been using an inline electric pump between tank and fuel pump to bypass primer pump leak problem assuming the air leak problem would go away. Even with the electric pump running during operation the engine will konk after several minutes of running with lots of frothy air built up in the injector pump. If I purge the air I am good for another too short while.I wonder if anyone has a ngk, nd or any other # that might help my local store find me a primer pump like the bosch 2 447 222 126 you guys talk about and more important Is this the cause of my air leak? With pressure from an electric pump I thought I would be avoiding all problems like primer pump and fuel return line leaks.Sorry for all the words.
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This is a suggestion I made to another "Mudder" some time back. His, yours and my problem seemed to be very similar.
Offered as retired shop teacher - best job I ever had!





Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Manitoba CANADA
Posts: 46
The IP has two "pumps", the first ( on the side of the IP) is the transfer pump that moves fuel from the tank to the IP.

A good check is to remove the fuel line from the transfer line and put clear plastic fuel line from the transfer pump into a container of diesel on the ground under the engine. Bleed the system with the primer pump (I like to keep a short - 10" or so - piece of clear line on the bleeder screw and keep it submerged in a plastic water bottle about half full of clean diesel - that keeps air from coming back into the system and avoids the mess associated with bleeding the system).

Start the engine, let it run for a while and see if there is any air in the supply line.

If there isn't, shut the engine down and keep an eye on the clear line. If bubbles start to move through the line you know that you have a leak in the primer or the line from the injector return line to the banjo fitting on the transfer pump. There is short piece of flex line at the back of the return rail that goes onto a steel line that runs behind the intake manifold down to the transfer pump.

A leak in that 3" line took me 2 days to isolate and 5 minutes to fix!

The clear line to the transfer pump was the answer for me but for all it takes to change that line it is worth it to assume that it might be leaking and replace it.

Of course all of the other suggestions you are getting could also be the problem.

Good luck!
 
Dougal said:
Country of origin doesn't matter at all, the only concern is how well it is made.
I don't know or care where my bosch primer was made, it works perfectly.
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Generally, with critical parts such as this, the country of origin says a lot about quality.

There are many, many cheap and counterfeit parts out there and much if it is very inferior quality.

~John
 
Radd Cruisers said:
Generally, with critical parts such as this, the country of origin says a lot about quality.

There are many, many cheap and counterfeit parts out there and much if it is very inferior quality.

~John
Click to expand...

No it doesn't. I can show you perfectly made parts from china and india and expensive tools with alignment problems which are made in the US. "Country of origin" concerns usually boil down to either trade protectionism or thinly veiled racism.

It's not about counterfeiting, no-one here has bought a counterfeit bosch pump.
 
Dougal said:
No it doesn't. I can show you perfectly made parts from china and india and expensive tools with alignment problems which are made in the US. "Country of origin" concerns usually boil down to either trade protectionism or thinly veiled racism.

It's not about counterfeiting, no-one here has bought a counterfeit bosch pump.
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And I can show you garbage quality parts (or just about any other product) from China, India, and many other countries - even first world countries. It has nothing to do with "thinly veiled racism" and everything to do with cost-cutting as well inferior materials/workmanship.

There are lots and lots of counterfeit items out there - along with Gucci watches, clothing and all kinds of other goods.

A brand name product in one country is not necessarily equivalent to a brand name product made in another country. That is merely a fact, and in my particular trade I see it on a daily basis. It is also not about "you get what you pay for" either, there are lots of poorly made items that are costly, and lots of inexpensive items that are very good.

Another company I was dealing with, and is located locally to me, was having parts machined in a third world country from a clearly specified grade of chromoly (needed to be exactly the right product for durability and safety as specified by their engineers). When the finished products were tested, and with the clearly labeled alloy requirements on the products, the actual alloy was quite different - a less expensive alloy that was not up to the task.

It happens all the time. If you don't see it in your trade or profession that is great, but I see it all the time in my profession.


~John
 
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Radd Cruisers said:
And I can show you garbage quality parts (or just about any other product) from China, India, and many other countries - even first world countries. It has nothing to do with "thinly veiled racism" and everything to do with cost-cutting as well inferior materials/workmanship.
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Exactly my point. Country of origin is irrelevant, only how well the parts are made. There are many people who beleive everything from china, taiwan or india has to be junk while not realizing that virtually every company has factories of their own or subcontractors in those countries.

If you find a real bosch primer that doesn't measure up, tell us about it.
 
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Well not that i want to do a cut-a-way , But mine has been sent , and ill post pix of it.



Now it seems , C / I / or just at home is risky..

I agree with both you guys. Crap can come in many boxes.

I bought a few from this gent on e-bay.
German and even have a Bosch stamp in the metal.


VT
 
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somewhat related question on bleeding fuel system

Looking to replace the red hose in the picture as it has a pinhole leak.

I found the fuelcircuit.jpg posted by lostmarbles to be interesting - if I am understanding it correctly, an ingenious design as the air will naturally rise to the highest point (in the fuel filter - the location of the bleeder screw).

Unfortunately I have a system that is not so ingenious. See pic if it shows up. The fuel goes from fuel feed pump to a plastic fuel filter to the biofuel deal to another plastic fuel filter to the (leaking) red hose to the injection pump. The biofuel thing is the high point of the system but has no bleeder valve that I can see.

I'm not sure how to bleed it once I replace the red hose. Once it is put back together it seems that if there is an air bubble in there, there wouldn't be any easy place to bleed it out.

I am thinking try not to get any air in there in the first place:
1. park it on a slope so that fuel will be less likely to fall out of the injection pump and create an air bubble
2. detach hose keeping closest fuel filter up so air doesn't enter it
3. attach new hose to injection pump and fill to brim with fuel
4. reattach fuel filter line to new hose
Errrr.... feel free to laugh... any suggestions? Would I be able to put a stock spin-on filter on this system and eliminate the problem?

Bear with me please, I don't know much but I am trying to learn!
This is an '79 Australian BJ40 btw
IMG_3163.webp
 
Ah! I think with further searching I found my own answer. Will try replacing the hose introducing minimal amount of air. If running poorly bleed injector pump. If still running poorly bleed pump then injectors. Right?

I still want to know if a stock fuel filter will work with this though. Considering removing the Lovecraft as I can't get biodiesel in my area anyway and it seems to cause issues.
 
If you're not using that biofuel stuff then I'd definitely get rid of it MadMel and I'd try to return the fuel system to OEM.

:beer:

PS. The "bio installation" looks very substandard to me ...in the hoses ....in the way the hoses are attached with hose clips after the fuel pump . .... in the choice of filter(s) (remembering that proper filtration is vital in a diesel) ....and in the way it all tends to trap air will no means of purging it out.
 
I second that.
Before starting , check with original stock setup.
Your can of worms could turn into a basket of snakes , then trying to drive to parts zones is now out of the question.

VT
 
Diesel42 said:
Will it pump at all if you haven't cracked the bleeder fitting(the one at the fuel filter)? Because this will pump although you don't fell any resistance. Once you crack the bleeder it does spit fuel but not with alot of pressure. It did get the job done though. Considering the lines and tank very completely dry i was happy not to have to crack the injectors. After a couple 4 second starts, it just purred. Just want to determine if this pump is working completely as i could returnit for a new one if it isn't.
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My OEM pump will lock up after a couple of pumps. In order for me to screw it down I have to crack open the bleed. That's with the system full of fuel.
 
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