Bob's Blue FJ60 (1 Viewer)

maxbob002

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Sorry haven't posted any updates. We have been enjoying riding around regularly. I found someone parting out an FJ60 for the solenoid. I also had Fondren make two extra keys for me. The lady was really nice and they did a great job.

Now on to the problem at hand. About two weeks ago I drove Bluebird to work. It started a loud irregular knock at idle. I had to work and it didn’t knock when I started it that afternoon. Thought maybe it was the AC compressor but when I got home it did it some more with the AC off. Bought a stethoscope but never heard the knock again. The alternator bearings are not terribly smooth and the bracket bolt was loose. But probably nothing that would knock.

I also found out that the stock gauge for oil pressure should be much higher than the lower hash mark. I troubleshot per the FSM and found the sender was at fault. I ended getting an oil pressure test gauge as well. It showed 35psi at idle at operating temp and went up with RPMs. Today I decided to adjust/inspect the valves. Pulled the valve cover and saw bad things. The adjusters for both valves on #5 were eaten by the pushrod ends. This is the opposite of what I have found by reading around ih8mud. Most threads show pushrods mushroomed, bent, broken, etc. I also cranked it to see if the valves looked stuck. I figured it had been run for sometime like this anyways so another minute wouldn’t be that bad. The valves for #5 do move, just much smaller amounts than the others due to the ¼” gap. So my question is what would cause this other than a stuck valve? The valves were supposedly lashed recently before my purchase. The adjusters for these two valves also appear to have been screwed more than any of the other valves. Meaning this may not be a new problem? Two or so of the other pushrod ends have red pasty stuff but most of the others have regular oil on them. I consider myself handy with the steel (wrenches) and not any geek off the street but worry I am beginning to surpass my skills. I haven’t build a top or bottom end before.

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So replace the adjusters and pushrods, adjust lash and go?

Pull the head and take it to a machine shop? Other testing?

Swap motor to another 2F and rebuild this one overtime? I was told it was the original block to the truck but haven’t verified it or anything.
 

Bossman

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Is that metal shavings all over the place in the pics? If so, you really have no choice but to pull it down. If not, you may be able to save it with a few new pushrods and adjusters. It really depends on what the other end looks like. Did the truck sit for a period of time? Looks like some rust formed on the tip of the pushrods which is likely the cause of the problem.
 

maxbob002

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Yeah metal shavings are in there. Wasn't sure if I could use a magnet to get them all out. I'm not sure if it sat a long time but seems possible. It's out of Oregon and I bought it from a guy in Nashville who had it about a year. Supposedly he drove it frequently.
 

Bossman

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Yeah, that's gotta come apart. Your current problem is just the first to manifest itself. Your lower end bearings and cam are hating life right now. Sorry, man.
 

maxbob002

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Yeah I was worried about that but was hoping for better things. Now onto the options I guess. Swap a used one,rebuild, or go big with an lsx or crate 2f
 

wngrog

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I just bought two 2Fs. I did it because they were cheap but now that they are hear I'm suspect they are not worth s***.

I'll gladly let you take one and crack it open and see if it looks Good inside.
 
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Stuck in Lodi (Again)
Man, sux to get a disappointment like that right off the bat. At least you have a great body/interior that is worthy of a rebuild or swap.

Where you go from here largely depends on budget.

Sorry man.
 

maxbob002

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I'll have to take some time to decide a budget and direction. Certainly a used 2f is the cheapest and easiest. I appreciate the offer for a used one close and may end up on that route with a rebuild on the mine. I have always wanted to build an engine and this seems as good a time as any. Each option has pros and cons. The R2.8 is an interesting option as well. I'll have to read up on it.
 

wngrog

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I'm going to be talking to Jackson Cylinder Head soon about doing a rebuild on mine. I'll post up what I find out.

After looking at all the options I'm leaning toward a local rebuild with Japanese high quality parts
 

YotaJosh

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Personally, if I was facing a rebuild like you are from that issue, I would source some rockers and pushrods (going to have to do it anyway), clean out the shavings the best I could with magnets and parts cleaner, and drop the pan to clean it out the best you can. It might live thousands more miles, or it might die in a 100.

Shutting it down now and doing a full rebuild or replace is ideal, but what's the fun in that. These motors get fixed in strange ways all over the world and keep on going.
 

maxbob002

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Good to know about Jackson Cylinder. I'm glad there's a solid local resource for machining/building. I've been reading quite a bit about my options and don't want to rush.

One day, I think keeping the 2F is best with a good rebuild. The next day, I read a vortec build thread and feel excited. It looks like the vortec swaps don't have the resale value of some trucks with 2F's. Although a lot of these swaps for sale are on driver quality trucks rather than super clean ones. I realize the swap is a big job that takes considerable time. However, I could get it done over time and hopefully enjoy the process. (This should read today is a vortec day.)
 

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