Biodiesel Piggie #2 Buildup (was Sad Sad day...)

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Here is how the pig body sits now... My buddy with the BJ42 is picking up a Sawzall tomorrow for residence at the shop and I will get after the body mount bolts and hopefully have the body off shortly... Basically there is almost nothing other than the actual body mounts that needs to be done to easily remove the body. Then that gets taken apart and some cutting then off to the sand blasters... PS anyone want some '69 axles real cheap? :D
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I also replaced the back right rotor and replaced the lug studs so the wheel could be bolted back on.. It was basically just sitting on the rear full float hub and that was it.. So it was a little tricky rolling it around. I am also waiting for Kliers to return home from vacation so he can mail me the keys for the 80, that has also made it a bitch to manuver around because the wheel is locked in place... Also, it wants to stay in park unless the battery is dead or disconnected...

Anyway, you can see here is the rear rotor from when it dragged for god knows how long against the pavement... You can also see the bottom shock mount has been ground to just barely the bottom of the shock mount.
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The rear wheel was also ***completely sheared off** as in all 6 lug studs were snapped off in the wreck. Unbelievable.. Anywhoo, had to replace those too..


Also, some backing plate carnage. I trimmed this up with a cutoff wheel on the grinder tonight, I am probably just going to leave it like this..
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Lug stud replacement teqnique. 1) Luckily, all the old stud pounded right out with a 2.5 lb hammer and one or two big wacks... 2), Use air tools to suck the new stud in. I also greased them and used a bigger nut as a spacer with a lug nut to suck them in.. Got them nice and snug, nothing like 6 new lug nuts. It was very easy to replace them all, probably the easiest of any vehicle I have worked on. Of course its easy too because it is only the rears... ;)
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this was pretty cool. I pulled the original OEM spare from the 55, definetely original and definetely still in very good shape. Also under the piggie in rust free Oregon / Washington, somehow the rubber was also excellently preserved. It is a Dunlop, pretty agressive tread I thought. I think I am going to clean it up and hang it somewhere I think..
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I also cleaned up a lot of the glass that was inside the truck as the windows, windshield, and rear window were inside completely shattered. Took me about 45 minutes of vacuuming with the shop vac to get most of it out and even then there is still plenty of glass in there. I also pulled the seatbelts and handles to probably use in the 55 as well...
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So that is about it... Also my buddy with the BJ42 stopped by to fix his leaky primer pump hand-priming mechanism. It was so tight that he had to remove the battery tray to get at it.. . This was a few days ago... We also replaced his exhaust manifold gasket this afternoon as well...
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And finally, we also had time for a quick trip this weekend into the southern part of the Uintahs which is a mountain range near here. Just gorgous of course.. It was a friend's birthday and about 20 people showed up for a party way out in the middle of nowhere... Damon (guy with the BJ42), Carrie (the GF) and me all rallied in her camper which we also spent a good amount of time on, on Saturday.. I welded up a pretty nasty exhaust leak and we pulled out some of the nasty old rotten wood, then stayed in the camper for the first time. Also put about 150 miles on it, it rallies around pretty good actually :)

And my buddies nice Utah-clean bone stock 1974 FJ40 other than an OME lift... He drove it all the way out there getting about 8-10 mpg, ouch... The camper actually got about 13 surprizingly...
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Wow. Absolutely amazing build up.

What's the deal with the hand priming mechanism on teh 42? Is it a hand operated way of pressurizing the fuel system before start up? That is neat.
 
Basically, all diesels need to have absolutely no air in the their system... The primer pump is a push lever system that pushes fuel through the system so you can bleed air out of it later, similar to how you bleed a brake system. On 3B's (and 2H's) the actual pump lever is known for leaking after a few years. In this case 22 :) Diesels have a mechanical "lift pump" similar to a 2F actually that also has a mechanical "lift pump" or fuel pump. Its only purpose is to take engine from the tank and deliver to the carb or fueling mechanism. On a diesel, the priming system I am mentioning is on the lift pump.

A little diesel tutorial if anyone is interested:

The lift pump then pushes fuel to the actual 'fuel pump,' that takes place of pretty much everything on a gasser: the carb/FI system, distributor, ignition system (plugs etc), all in one unit. Basically, gassers take in air and fuel together, compress, then use the spark plug to detonate. A diesel takes in air only, compresses that air only to more than twice the pressure of a gasser, then (when a spark plug would normally fire if were a gasser) the main fuel pump injects a tiny amount of diesel fuel in a wide spray pattern. The pressure and heat of the compressed air is so great that the fuel instantly combusts, so no spark plug required.

This is also why diesels suffer from poor starting in cold weather versus a gasser unless the engine itself and its starting aids (glow plugs, etc) are all in tip top shape. Glowplugs basically heat the fuel and combustion chambers before the engine starts and slightly when running on some models.

In between the fuel pump and the injectors are hard, prebent metal lines (usually brass) go to each injector, so 4 injectors and 4 fuel lines on a 4 cyl, 6 and 6 on a 6, etc. Then the whole think is timed very carefully to the engine via a gear so it knows precisely when to fire. The fuel pump adds more fuel (and pressure) into the brass lines to each injector precisely when the fuel is supposed to be squirted into each cyl. The injector is tuned to release the fuel at a certain pressure so it releases at the given moment the fuel pump adds more fuel to the line. And the fuel pump always keeps that fuel at a certain (usually very high) pressure. Naturally, the throttle is on the actual fuel pump this is what controls reving and power in diesels: simply adding fuel...

This is why air is bad for diesels, because it will compress and throw the whole thing off. Just like a brake line.

The main fuel pump is also surprizingly reliable for what it does, it really is the 'heart' of the system. But this is also why it is susceptable to issues like fuel properties and things like that.. Because diesels have an injector for each cyl, even a completely mechanical diesel (like a 4BT, or a pretty much most diesels before 1995-1998ish including 3B/13B-T/2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/) still act like a fuel injected gas engine in that they run at any angle and no bogging etc. This is because there is no carb to bog down. But other than that they are suprizingly similar to gas engines, they are afterall still internal combustion engines, they still have heads and valves and pistons and blocks and oil pans and all that jazz...

A guess a little tutorial on diesels... :) But they sure are cool as you can tell, I am pretty into them :)
 
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Ooooh, BJ42s only had a half dozen and a couple were 1984s with interior hood latch.


Looking good, got your work cut out for ya.... hey kid.....



dieselcruiserhead said:
So that is about it... Also my buddy with the BJ42 stopped by to fix his leaky primer pump hand-priming mechanism. It was so tight that he had to remove the battery tray to get at it.. . This was a few days ago... We also replaced his exhaust manifold gasket this afternoon as well...
 
Lengthy speal, to late and tired to read the rest of it, but the toyota does not need all the air out of the system before firing. Hardy little 3Bs can start with a little air in the system. Put your foot to the floor and it will purge.


dieselcruiserhead said:
Basically, all diesels need to have absolutely no air in the their system... The primer pump is a push lever system that pushes fuel through the system so you can bleed air out of it later, similar to how you bleed a brake system. On 3B's (and 2H's) the actual pump lever is known for leaking after a few years. In this case 22 :) Diesels have a mechanical "lift pump" similar to a 2F actually that also has a mechanical "lift pump" or fuel pump. Its only purpose is to take engine from the tank and deliver to the carb or fueling mechanism. On a diesel, the priming system I am mentioning is on the lift pump.

A little diesel tutorial if anyone is interested:

The lift pump then pushes fuel to the actual 'fuel pump,' that takes place of pretty much everything on a gasser: the carb/FI system, distributor, ignition system (plugs etc), all in one unit. Basically, gassers take in air and fuel together, compress, then use the spark plug to detonate. A diesel takes in air only, compresses that air only to more than twice the pressure of a gasser, then (when a spark plug would normally fire if were a gasser) the main fuel pump injects a tiny amount of diesel fuel in a wide spray pattern. The pressure and heat of the compressed air is so great that the fuel instantly combusts, so no spark plug required.

This is also why diesels suffer from poor starting in cold weather versus a gasser unless the engine itself and its starting aids (glow plugs, etc) are all in tip top shape. Glowplugs basically heat the fuel and combustion chambers before the engine starts and slightly when running on some models.

In between the fuel pump and the injectors are hard, prebent metal lines (usually brass) go to each injector, so 4 injectors and 4 fuel lines on a 4 cyl, 6 and 6 on a 6, etc. Then the whole think is timed very carefully to the engine via a gear so it knows precisely when to fire. The fuel pump adds more fuel (and pressure) into the brass lines to each injector precisely when the fuel is supposed to be squirted into each cyl. The injector is tuned to release the fuel at a certain pressure so it releases at the given moment the fuel pump adds more fuel to the line. And the fuel pump always keeps that fuel at a certain (usually very high) pressure. Naturally, the throttle is on the actual fuel pump this is what controls reving and power in diesels: simply adding fuel...

This is why air is bad for diesels, because it will compress and throw the whole thing off. Just like a brake line.

The main fuel pump is also surprizingly reliable for what it does, it really is the 'heart' of the system. But this is also why it is susceptable to issues like fuel properties and things like that.. Because diesels have an injector for each cyl, even a completely mechanical diesel (like a 4BT, or a pretty much most diesels before 1995-1998ish including 3B/13B-T/2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/) still act like a fuel injected gas engine in that they run at any angle and no bogging etc. This is because there is no carb to bog down. But other than that they are suprizingly similar to gas engines, they are afterall still internal combustion engines, they still have heads and valves and pistons and blocks and oil pans and all that jazz...

A guess a little tutorial on diesels... :) But they sure are cool as you can tell, I am pretty into them :)
 
not much to report other than we had fun cutting the roof off the 80 with our new sawzall.. I kind of want to take the 80 apart ASAP but I want to get it running to make sure the engine is AOK before we sell it to make sure the engine has good compression... And I think we may even use this thing for a quick dump run this weekend or early next week. We also straightened up the shop including some new shelving which sucked a lot of the misc items I have had all over the damn place into one convient place, nice to finally have the shop semi-organized..
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Hey, back from vacation and I'll send the keys tomorrow, its a bit sad seeing the 80 like that:crybaby: , but I'm glad that you, Dave, and Simon are getting some use out of it. That rear shock mount didn't drag for more than about 100 feet, but it did have the weight of the 55 and trailer on it, as well as 4 doors, two fenders, a front axle, tanny and case, springs, driveshafts and a tailgate, wouldn't take much dragging with all that weight on it.

Anyhow, looks good so far, when you get the keys make sure to pull the plugs and bow out the oil. the last time I laid it over every single drop of oil had run into the intake. I don't know how long it sat on the roof before they got it righted, but just beware of that (as if you didn't know already):D

Dan
 
Hey Dan good to hear from you and welcome back... Hate to say it but I sort of got impatient so I started tearing into it aggressively and I've reached a point where I don't think she'll ever see the road again unfortunately.... I will pull the plugs and clean out and do a compression test but probably after I pull the engine. theBut that said I would still like the keys whenever you get a chance as I think I'll be using the steering column from the 80 in the new 55.... Thanks and appreciated.. PS I also found all sorts of neat bullets, 9MM hollow point, you name it.. Nice ;)

Yesterday I spend about 8 hours on it doing the tear down.. Again, to keep the harness in tact, it has come close to requireing almost a complete dissassembly and I have the harness about 95% out... My buddy Damon keeps calling it the big black python because it is just so huge.. It is amazing to me how complex the wiring is, etc, to keep all those great gizmos going in the 80.. I will probably be using the ignition circuitry (start etc, or at least the plugs into the steering column), the heater and heater core assuming it all fits in the 55, the lockers and diff lock computer / switch etc, and probably the electric 809 series seats. Then there are a few other small goodies. I am also considering putting the lock catches from the 80 simiar to how Buckroseau did with his FJ45 in his awesome FJ45 buildup thread...
 
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