Big brakes for 08-15 using 16+ parts

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Shop confirmed the PO put on aftermarket brakes all around — slotted rotors, unknown brand. Running 275/60R20 Toyo Open Country RT Trail.

Did Jones Pass this weekend, up and over into a camping spot near treeline. Could smell the brakes by the time we arrived, and hard braking on I-70 on the way home produced a clear pulse through the pedal and wheel.


Toy Doctors read is that the slotted rotors don’t have the thermal mass to handle a sustained descent, warping and glazing instead of dissipating heat.

For those running heavy mountain/camping/towing use on similar wheel/tire setups , what rotor and pad combo has actually held up for you? Back to genuine 08-15 solid-vented spec, or would you go straight to the 2016+ swap for the extra thermal capacity? Also curious if a fluid flush is worth doing proactively after a heat event like this.

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Shop confirmed the PO put on aftermarket brakes all around — slotted rotors, unknown brand. Running 275/60R20 Toyo Open Country RT Trail.

Did Jones Pass this weekend, up and over into a camping spot near treeline. Could smell the brakes by the time we arrived, and hard braking on I-70 on the way home produced a clear pulse through the pedal and wheel.


Toy Doctors read is that the slotted rotors don’t have the thermal mass to handle a sustained descent, warping and glazing instead of dissipating heat.

For those running heavy mountain/camping/towing use on similar wheel/tire setups , what rotor and pad combo has actually held up for you? Back to genuine 08-15 solid-vented spec, or would you go straight to the 2016+ swap for the extra thermal capacity? Also curious if a fluid flush is worth doing proactively after a heat event like this.

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Were you towing? Downshifting to control speed on descents vs dragging the brakes? (Sorry if this is obvious, just covering all the bases)

I personally have never liked slotted/drilled rotors on vehicles not designed for them. They usually introduce a rumble on braking that can be felt.. and yes it all reduces mass. Thing is, mass isn’t exactly what you want on a long descent.. extra mass is better for a single hard stop from speed, because that extra mass can have more thermal energy fed into it before the overall temp climbs. Basically it’s a better heat sink.

Slotting/drilling is actually better for cooling over sustained periods. The trouble here is the slotted aftermarket parts are rarely high quality in the first place..

In general I will advocate for the 16+ or Tundra parts. These rigs are heavy when stock and require care to prevent pulsing brakes whether it’s from uneven pad buildup or warping. Anything you can do to increase the rotor diameter (leverage) and mass (thermal capacity) will ultimately lead to less brake problems in the future. Let alone if someone is towing or running on larger than stock tires.
 
Look into Hawk LTS brake pads. They work great for me.
I went to go order these at the Hawk direct website and they appear to be multiple options. Can you tell me what specific pads you recommend?

Edit: Looks like the filter didn’t take and what I want is literally “LTS”.

I am assuming the 2016 MY rear pads will fit my 2015 as the rears didn’t change.
 
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My parts order arrived (brakes, and bearings).

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Should have made arrangements to deliver to directly to the garage so my wife wouldn’t see the full visual. Even my son-in-law said “the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem”.
 
My parts order arrived (brakes, and bearings).

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Should have made arrangements to deliver to directly to the garage so my wife wouldn’t see the full visual. Even my son-in-law said “the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem”.
I can quit whenever I want!!!

Proceeds to order more parts before current 15% off sale lapses.
 
I can quit whenever I want!!!

Proceeds to order more parts before current 15% off sale lapses.
lol! That’s exactly what I said and then ordered the brake pads on Amazon,
 
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