Local dealer wants $275 for just the OEM key. Any idea where the best/cheapest place to get an OEM key fob is? Are there any aftermarket fobs that are trustworthy (will last a long time)?
Best place to get an OEM 98-02 key fob?
- Thread starter mhettleman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I just went through this on my Lexus SC430, after going through it on my LC. You may not like the answer.
1010keys, keylessbest, and a handful of other ebay/amazon sellers (who I'm convinced are all the same company) will sell you an unprogrammed, generic uncut blank for $20-30. I've tried a handful of them. Will they program? Generally yes, if the chip is correct. Are they as good as OEM? Not nearly. The range is awful, the plastic fit and finish is poor, and some of them use a cheap steel blade that can wear your keyway. I ended up keeping the $25 keylessbest key for the LC, but I had to do the remote antenna mod detailed in this forum just to get close to the range of the OE key. I would not trust it - it's just my backup. So that answers your question about cheapest.
The best comes from the dealer, and I'd consider buying during one of the SE dealer network sales and having it cut locally. My local Batteries+ store cuts my blanks for $25. All my programming has been DIY, even though the dealer and every locksmith will say that's not possible. The procedure is also in this forum.
The sweet spot I found is Dorman and Denso blanks. For my Lexus (which I believe is the same 'security' cut key used on later model LX470s), I found a Dorman blank for about $140, so $165 with cutting. Lexus dealer quote for OE was $219 cut, so a little cheaper. The 'name brand' blanks have printed FCC IDs, which I think is your quality tell. First, these were easier to verify the correct chip on. Second, I think they have more powerful transmitters, and the Dorman's range is identical to OE. For $54 savings, you give up the Toyota/Lexus logo on the case, but the plastic looks identical. It's possible these are actually white-boxed OE keys, but I'm not sure.
So, for $, you can have somewhat functional and kinda reliable. For $$$$ you can have perfect, and for $$$ you can strike a compromise.
1010keys, keylessbest, and a handful of other ebay/amazon sellers (who I'm convinced are all the same company) will sell you an unprogrammed, generic uncut blank for $20-30. I've tried a handful of them. Will they program? Generally yes, if the chip is correct. Are they as good as OEM? Not nearly. The range is awful, the plastic fit and finish is poor, and some of them use a cheap steel blade that can wear your keyway. I ended up keeping the $25 keylessbest key for the LC, but I had to do the remote antenna mod detailed in this forum just to get close to the range of the OE key. I would not trust it - it's just my backup. So that answers your question about cheapest.
The best comes from the dealer, and I'd consider buying during one of the SE dealer network sales and having it cut locally. My local Batteries+ store cuts my blanks for $25. All my programming has been DIY, even though the dealer and every locksmith will say that's not possible. The procedure is also in this forum.
The sweet spot I found is Dorman and Denso blanks. For my Lexus (which I believe is the same 'security' cut key used on later model LX470s), I found a Dorman blank for about $140, so $165 with cutting. Lexus dealer quote for OE was $219 cut, so a little cheaper. The 'name brand' blanks have printed FCC IDs, which I think is your quality tell. First, these were easier to verify the correct chip on. Second, I think they have more powerful transmitters, and the Dorman's range is identical to OE. For $54 savings, you give up the Toyota/Lexus logo on the case, but the plastic looks identical. It's possible these are actually white-boxed OE keys, but I'm not sure.
So, for $, you can have somewhat functional and kinda reliable. For $$$$ you can have perfect, and for $$$ you can strike a compromise.
Last edited:
Pro tip: if you go the cheap route and are DIY programming, swap the innards of the new blank into the shell/blade of your existing cut key and program the new key's wireless and immobilizer BEFORE you have it cut, so you at least know the electronic portion works. Once you have cut the blade, you won't be able to return an unprogrammable key.
Your bio does not show your model year, but again, don't assume you need a locksmith for the programming.
Also be mindful: There are master keys and valet keys. Different things. Master keys have keyless lock/unlock programming AND immobilizer (RFID) programming, which are separate processes. Valet has immobilizer only. Again, all DIYable depending on model year - it's been broadly covered in this forum. But, if all you have is valet keys, you will not be able to create a master from them - you'll need an ECU re-program.
Also be mindful: There are master keys and valet keys. Different things. Master keys have keyless lock/unlock programming AND immobilizer (RFID) programming, which are separate processes. Valet has immobilizer only. Again, all DIYable depending on model year - it's been broadly covered in this forum. But, if all you have is valet keys, you will not be able to create a master from them - you'll need an ECU re-program.
- Thread starter
- #6
2000… thinking I definitely need an ECU reprogram as the dealer told me the only thing they can do is replace the ECU (discontinued part of course). Other thing I’m curious about is whether keyless entry was standard in the 2000 model. I thought it was, but this evening a locksmith wasn’t able to program the keyless entry so I need to confirm.
You need a master key to program either a starting key or the lock/unlock buttons. If all you have is valet keys, you'll have to find a locksmith that can do a Toyota ECU flash.
I'm pretty sure keyless entry was standard on all US 100s, I've never heard of one here without it.
And FYI for all those who just need a key cut, try going to a locksmith/access control installer. I had three keys cut for $5 (total) from one earlier this year.
And FYI for all those who just need a key cut, try going to a locksmith/access control installer. I had three keys cut for $5 (total) from one earlier this year.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks all. Really hate the engineers that came up with this bs lol
- Thread starter
- #12
What year? I think since mine is a 2000 its a lot more difficult
this was on a 98
US 2000MY had standard keyless entry. Pre-facelift models like yours are fully DIY programmable using the “chicken dance” method. If a locksmith was unable to do it, they’re either doing it wrong or your blank’s transmitter is incompatible with the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #15
Even if the key used in the ignition is a sub and not a master? Thinking either that was his issue or weak door lock actuators
I don't understand your question, and maybe I don't fully understand your scenario. Here's what I have learned, having made a couple of keys for a Toyota and Lexus:
- There are master keys and valet keys. The master typically has a head with keyless entry buttons, the valet does not. On a Lexus (and maybe some Toyotas?), the valet blade is slightly different from the master blade so that the valet cannot be used to open the glove compartment.
- All keys contain an RFID chip that disables the vehicle's immobilizer by proximity to the ignition switch. You are programming the vehicle's ECU to recognize the RFID chip, not programming the key itself.
- Separately, a master key has a wireless transmitter that must be registered to the vehicle to lock/unlock the doors using the buttons on the key head. Again, you are programming the ECU to recognize the key's transmitter.
- Earlier Toyota key blades are edge cut: the 'ridges' are on the outer edge of the blade. Any basic hardware store that makes keys can cut these. Lexus and later model Toyotas are 'security cut': there is a squiggly channel down the center of the blade. These require a special key milling machine that any good locksmith will have. These are also mistakenly referred to as 'laser cut.' There are no lasers involved in cutting them.
- The wireless transmitter's frequencies have varied over the model years and you must have a blank that transmits at the right frequency for your vehicle. The blank's FCC ID (printed on the case) is your clue about the frequency. Cheap blanks sometimes don't have a printed FCC ID, so it's hard to tell if they will work. I believe the RFID chips are universal.
- The ECU will know the difference between a master and a valet, and how many keys of which type are registered to the vehicle. It stores them in different 'slots' in its memory. This is limited. Once you run out of RFID slots, you cannot program any more, and you have to clear the ECU's key memory (DIY-able). Once you run out of keyless entry slots, the ECU will over-write the oldest ones (so the keyless entry of the first master key to have been programmed will stop working).
- A master can be used to help register a new valet. A valet key is lower-order in terms of security, so it cannot be used to help you register a new master.
So, if 1) you have a wrong-frequency blank, 2) your ECU's key 'slots' are full, 3) you're trying to program using a valet, or 4) you're doing the programming procedure wrong, you'll fail.
Hope that helps, and maybe the key gurus here can check my assumptions above.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks for the help, I really do appreciate it. I only have valet keys so an ECU flash seems to be my only option to get a fob. Locksmith that came out last night (although very nice and didnt charge me anything) wouldn't go any further as he failed to program the lock/unlock first (which makes sense as there was no master available to program it). Might just live with what i have depending on how much a flash will cost. Again, thanks for all of the help.
I just went through the non-OEM struggle to find a key that worked for both the immobilizer chip and the door remote. I tried an Ilco brand key from Key4, a locksmith supplier. Shipping was pretty quick and the key worked well the first time. Remote range is as good as OEM (for an ‘04 LX).