Best Locking Differentials for a stock PIG?

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For a stock rig, I would want selectable lockers, especially in the front.

I don't think anyone has mentioned Yukon's Zip locker, although I have not heard anything good or bad....

I have also had very good luck with ARBs.
 
Another lucky guy here with ARB over 10 years of use .. there were installed on Tencha back then when she was my DD .. there days are plenty other options listed in this thread .. so at the end it's up to you and the installation / installer .. but the habillity to run them of ( disengaged ) like an open 3rd makes them pretty option.
 
Hi all,

76WestTXPig, why do you want/need locking diffs in your stock FJ55? How do you use this rig?

Regards,

Alan


Guys,

I need to know what my best options are for front and rear lockers for my stock '76 FJ-55. Appreciate any insight. Thanks!

Bob
 
For a stock rig, I would want selectable lockers, especially in the front.

I don't think anyone has mentioned Yukon's Zip locker, although I have not heard anything good or bad....

I have also had very good luck with ARBs.

Zip locker vs ARB destructive testing:

Here's my opinion. Seems like everyone has one of those.
Since us Cruiser guys have a limited market, parts availability, and long term support is a big deal.
At least to me.

Harrop and TJM seem to have a decent product. However, they have not been around in the US for as long as ARB.

Check out this thread: Think this ARB locker is salvageable?
specifically, posts 30 and 31.

Looks like Mace had a discontinued locker, from the thread, it looked like ARB didn't directly have the part, but tracked it down through resellers to get the part for the customer, then shipped it, internationally, to the customer that needed the part. To me, this is insanely good customer support.

Everything I have heard about bad ARB units is typically due to either poor installation, or lack of maintenance (eg, turning it on and off once a month or so).
I put an ARB in the front of my Fj40 back in 2010. Every time I drive the '40 I engage front drive, and lock up and unlock the diff several times (even though the hubs aren't locked). I figure this keeps the o-rings lubricated and I haven't had a problem with the locker.
Just my 2 cents.
 
Really only three choices

1. Cable Lockers from a 60 series

Actually four...

7Xs came cable locked and the mechanism fit the Pig better, since the lineage isn't too far removed, plus they're more common.

To go one further, 7X cable locked axles, complete, with the spring perches relocated are a better option, since full float and the steering (which works better on the similar 55 front) is an improvement, as well.

Don't know current inventory, but @joekatana can source......but if you gotta ask....

Cable lockers were available when they built the 80-series. Why not use them?

Very rare.....like golden pink unicorn that poops rainbows rare.

8" HP and think the axle shafts are exclusive to 80/105s, which may preclude all but custom option, since 80 is wider.
 
Fast Eddy said:
Cable lockers were available when they built the 80-series. Why not use them?

Very rare.....like golden pink unicorn that poops rainbows rare.

8" HP and think the axle shafts are exclusive to 80/105s, which may preclude all but custom option, since 80 is wider.

No, I meant the idea and the cable locker system was available to Toyota, who could have used them in the 80 series instead of e-lockers if they were that much more reliable. They did not.

If you swap from a '70 series to a piggy, you're going to have to make a custom cable for the rear axle somehow. Good luck with that.
 
ARB all day. Have used them on multiple cruisers, I have never experienced any issues with leaking. And if they do ever leak it is usually a pretty easy fix. They are also the most expensive, but imo well worth it.
 
Custom cable- no problem. Had mine made up by Tom at engineering components inc.

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More on the install here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/84...pair-and-upgrade-making-it-mine.807688/page-8

I vote for factory lockers.

P

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Do you have any pics of the shaft on which the collar rides, and how it attaches to the cable?

Aren't there times when the diff is bound up and you can't unlock it? Do you just have to apply constant pressure until it's able to unlock? With the e-locker, the spring takes care of this for you.

Just curious. I have the idea to make a low-profile e-locker actuator. You can't use a Toyota e-locker in a stock rig. The oil pan interferes with the elevated e-locker motor.
 
Just like the e-locker there is a spring that takes care of the engage/disengage so as long as one wheel turn at a different rate than the other you can engage pretty much instantly. However when it's all bound up it may take a bit just like the 4wd selector.

I modified the bracket to be in double shear because the original rod end had a 10 mm eye on a 6x1.0mm shaft and was impossible to obtain. So I had to go with a 6 mm eye.
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Pete
 
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