Ballast resistor (1 Viewer)

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Saskatchewan, Canada
Does anyone know a good place to get a ballast resistor for a 74' fj40. Had someone install a flame thrower electronic ignition coil. The resistor was removed now the coil is shot, I bought a new one but the resistor is MIA. Thank you for any leads you may have.
 
I would think your local parts store would have something, you could look into getting an internally resisted coil.
 
any auto parts store will carry what you need its getting some of the morons behind the counter to understand
 
Does anyone know a good place to get a ballast resistor for a 74' fj40. Had someone install a flame thrower electronic ignition coil. The resistor was removed now the coil is shot, I bought a new one but the resistor is MIA. Thank you for any leads you may have.
I just had a similar problem. Mine was k ow one could find a external resistor Coil all they could find was coils that were internally resistor coils. I finally ended up at NAPA and they had what I needed. Make sure the coil that you have says you must use a external resistor.
 
I think the one I got was for a mid 70's chevy pick up. About 5 bucks as I recall.
 
Thank you, I searched a few of the regular parts stops ( SOR, CruiserCorps, Jt outfitters) all were out of the ballasts. This site and community sure have come through for me with my project. Thanks again everyone
 
There is always Amazon, but then you would have to choose from a dozen choices.
 
http://www.amazon.com/OEM-5203-O-E-M-Ballast-Resistor/dp/B000CSS5RK

The OEM 5203 is identical to the one removed, and made-in-Japan. Although it's NLA on amazon, should be able to find it elsewhere. I've seen it under various brands, but do not remember which ones.

But you can use a ceramic one, too, from Autozone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ballast-Res...-L4-/251874123348?hash=item3aa4de1e54&vxp=mtr

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But *I thought*, if you have electronic ignition installed, you don't need the resistor anymore?

I have a 4/74 (points ignition) and I replaced the coil/resistor with this Diamond Gel made-in-Japan
.

Also, if you want, I have a new resistor I'm not going to use, if you want it.

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Talk to Mark Algazy, Marks Offroad. He is a pertronix distributor and can set you up with a coil and a pertronix unit to eliminate the points, he sold me one for my 69 40 and all I can say is Vroom.....
 
Whether you need a ballast resistor or not depends only on the coil used.
"Ballasted ignition systems were designed to accommodate a wide range of operating conditions. A 3 ohm coil can only produce it's power when it is being supplied the necessary 12 volts. This means that in cold cranking situations when the batteries voltage dropped, the coil wasn't receiving enough power to create a spark.

On the flip side, there is the 1.5 ohm coil which is happy to operate in these lower voltage scenarios. Unfortuantely, they would burn out quickly if operated constantly at 12 volts. The solution to this problem was the ballast which reduces the voltage down to the 6-9 volts the 1.5 ohm coil prefers. It isn't, however, just that simple. In order to maximize the coil's output during starting, ballasted ignitions have a ballast bypass which sends 12 volts directly to the coil during startup. This doesn't create any issues for the ballast because the jump wire now creates 12 volts on both sides of the resistor. There is no longer a current flow, so the resistor doesn't do anything."
 
"Ballasted ignition systems were designed to accommodate a wide range of operating conditions. A 3 ohm coil can only produce it's power when it is being supplied the necessary 12 volts. This means that in cold cranking situations when the batteries voltage dropped, the coil wasn't receiving enough power to create a spark.

On the flip side, there is the 1.5 ohm coil which is happy to operate in these lower voltage scenarios. Unfortuantely, they would burn out quickly if operated constantly at 12 volts. The solution to this problem was the ballast which reduces the voltage down to the 6-9 volts the 1.5 ohm coil prefers. It isn't, however, just that simple. In order to maximize the coil's output during starting, ballasted ignitions have a ballast bypass which sends 12 volts directly to the coil during startup. This doesn't create any issues for the ballast because the jump wire now creates 12 volts on both sides of the resistor. There is no longer a current flow, so the resistor doesn't do anything."


Would u please explain what the external starter Diode is for and why there is one mounted on this coil like it is ?



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Would u please explain what the external starter Diode is for and why there is one mounted on this coil like it is ?



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From my American Autowire Hwy 15 wiring instructions; "7) Connect the brown wire to the "ACC" terminal of the ignition switch either directly or through the in line diode as follows: Note 1: Depending on your alternator and ignition switch manufacturer, it may be necessary to use a DIODE in the alternator's regulator circuit to prohibit any alternator feedback after the motor is shut off. If so, install the diode "in series" as shown. Optional Diode Kit 500529, is available from AAW, or your local AAW distributor."
 
Why do you think that is a diode?

What does the vendor or mfg say about it?

I was told the black box attached to the coil was a diode by another member

Do u know what it is Jim ? whats your opinion or concrete answer , i know this is your area of expertise

i found no information online from Denso.com , I have had this NOS coil for over 20 years , the vendor was a Nippondenso Rep. that visited my Collage campus in 1997
 
I've never seen it, that's why I wondered why it was a diode vs noise suppressor vs capacitive discharge module vs secondary ballast resistor.
Maybe a Japanese fluent Mudder could tell what the box & label says?
 
I was reviewing my wiring today in preparation for installing a GR starter. I remembered that there were more connections shown on the starter than I had on the car. Since my harness is not Toyota the "3 wire" scenario did not apply. However, when looking at my old starter and the way I am wired, it would be a piece of cake to install the GR starter as I have one spade terminal and then fused and unfused 12 power to the main lug on the starter. I do have the "yellow" wire (shown in the attachment) going to the ballast. That is when my memory was joggled regarding tech instructions from AAW to add a diode in that line so that the 12v could only go one way. I'll have to check tomorrow to see what voltage difference there is from one side of the ballast to the other. Mind you, the car runs fine, I'm just curious to see if my wiring is negating the ballast or not.
 

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The ballast resistor bypass wire (yellow in your diagram) does not need a diode because it is only hot during engine cranking. The purpose of this wire is to make cold weather starting more reliable (like -20C). I don’t know if you need this in Ecuador, but if you live up above the snow line it might come in handy.
 
I was told the black box attached to the coil was a diode by another member

Do u know what it is Jim ? whats your opinion or concrete answer , i know this is your area of expertise

i found no information online from Denso.com , I have had this NOS coil for over 20 years , the vendor was a Nippondenso Rep. that visited my Collage campus in 1997


It is used as a Flyback diode. A voltage spike , after shutdown, can happen and cause issues. Never was a problem until more modern semiconductors were appearing. Not to be to long winded, review some info. Technology went so fast that those years merging old and new went away. That coil you have was an answer for that period.



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