Bad Water Pump?

[ADVFJ80]

So this is a continuation of my nearly overheating issues that started last summer....I have a post here somewhere, but didn't think I should resurrect it. Summer has arrived in Arizona, and my high-temperature issue has returned. Last summer and into fall, I was experiencing engine water temps above 220°. I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses, the thermostat, and gave it a fresh fill of coolant. Engine water temps were running 175-185°, with daytime air temperature around 100. Today it's 105 outside, and the same issue has come back. Today, the Scanguage read 222. It's only going to get hotter here until October...

Now, something has dawned on me today... the water pump. When the engine is cold, I hear varying degrees of a squeal or whine at start-up, which pretty quickly goes away. I'd say no more than 5 seconds or so. I don't think it is the belts, as I regularly inspect them and they appear to be in great shape. I'd sprayed them with a bit of belt conditioner a while back, and that didn't resolve the whine at startup.

Just ordered a new Aisin water pump from CruiserTeq, but I'm curious if others have had similar experiences, or other thoughts on this? I do know the water pump is original, and has 255k miles on it. Can't hurt to replace it as part of my troubleshooting...

Thanks,
Randy

 

[Fj80oregon]

Have you replaced the fan clutch ever? That could be a likely culprit and you will be taking it off to replace the water pump now is a good time to replace they are cheep, a aisin blue hub is the way to go. If you want to get temps under control modding the clutch with 15k or 20k fluid will really help out.

 

[MissahPapaJ]

If modding a fan clutch isn’t your thing Landtank has them ready to go

 

[ADVFJ80]

Have you replaced the fan clutch ever? That could be a likely culprit and you will be taking it off to replace the water pump now is a good time to replace they are cheep, a aisin blue hub is the way to go. If you want to get temps under control modding the clutch with 15k or 20k fluid will really help out.

Totally forgot, that was the first thing I did when this problem came up last summer. Blue fan clutch from Landtank.

 

[ADVFJ80]

If modding a fan clutch isn’t your thing Landtank has them ready to go

Already done. Forgot that!

 

[Fj80oregon]

Totally forgot, that was the first thing I did when this problem came up last summer. Blue fan clutch from Landtank.

Do a complete coolant flush from the block drain plug or whatever preferred method, this usually takes multiple flushes bring the engine up to temp, dump, refill, repeat until the water is completely clear, then replace water pump and refill and see if that does thee trick. Would not be a bad idea to grab a TYC 1918 radiator also and just get that out of the way then you know your cooling system is fresh.

 

[ADVFJ80]

Do a complete coolant flush from the block drain plug or whatever preferred method, this usually takes multiple flushes bring the engine up to temp, dump, refill, repeat until the water is completely clear, then replace water pump and refill and see if that does thee trick. Would not be a bad idea to grab a TYC 1918 radiator also and just get that out of the way then you know your cooling system is fresh.

I'm actually considering it... I'll be in there anyways.

 

[Broski]

I never heard of a water pump going bad on these. People always replace them as preventive maintenance, including me

 

[LongDuck]

As a native Phoenician, a new Radiator is in your future. The AZ crew like the TYC1918 and second only to OEM. The benefit of OEM is the preinstalled foam surrounding the radiator where it meets the support. This foam can and should be added to the TYC1918 Radiator, as it helps the fan to draw air through the radiator tubes rather than around the fan shroud and support edges.

Your quoted temps of 220°F are dangerously high, and you've run out of available buffer - and it's not even in the hundred-and-teens, yet. Get the new Radiator in there, and go from there. Also, be sure to replace the Radiator Cap while you're at it. It needs to work properly to vent pressure to the overflow, and suck it back into the cooling system when you shut down and it cools.

A lot of us have chased our tails over the years to avoid high engine temps in PHX. Take the shortcut and replace the Radiator first, as you've already replaced the #1 cause - a bad engine fan clutch. Good luck, and stay cool,

 

[ADVFJ80]

As a native Phoenician, a new Radiator is in your future. The AZ crew like the TYC1918 and second only to OEM. The benefit of OEM is the preinstalled foam surrounding the radiator where it meets the support. This foam can and should be added to the TYC1918 Radiator, as it helps the fan to draw air through the radiator tubes rather than around the fan shroud and support edges.

Your quoted temps of 220°F are dangerously high, and you've run out of available buffer - and it's not even in the hundred-and-teens, yet. Get the new Radiator in there, and go from there. Also, be sure to replace the Radiator Cap while you're at it. It needs to work properly to vent pressure to the overflow, and suck it back into the cooling system when you shut down and it cools.

A lot of us have chased our tails over the years to avoid high engine temps in PHX. Take the shortcut and replace the Radiator first, as you've already replaced the #1 cause - a bad engine fan clutch. Good luck, and stay cool,

Thanks, Longduck. For the price of the TYC, it's hard to beat. Any lead on the foam, or should I just see what I can scrounge up at Napa?

 

[robnicko]

I never heard of a water pump going bad on these. People always replace them as preventive maintenance, including me

mine went bad, the bearing only. started it one morning and it made a horrible screeching sound. I disconnected the belts and spun it by hand and could feel the bearing had given up the ghost

this was it after 500,000kms though.........

 

[BILT4ME]

What shape is your fan shroud in? Broken or cracked? Is the fan properly placed? (halfway in/out of the narrowest part)
Is the cover plate above your steering shock in place?
The noise you may be hearing could be the AC idler pulley or the alternator belt idler pulley. Replace those as they will also create extra heat through HP drag.

I believe the foam is about 3/4" thick x 1" tall, is like a "truck camper bed" foam gasket. Fairly soft and pliable. Place it between the radiator and the radiator support in the front.

What equipment do you have in front of the grille? Lights? Winch?

Have you flushed you radiator, AC Condenser, from the back side with a garden hose to make sure that it's not clogged with mud, bugs, oil, etc so that it cannot breathe (and cool)?

 

[Broski]

mine went bad, the bearing only. started it one morning and it made a horrible screeching sound. I disconnected the belts and spun it by hand and could feel the bearing had given up the ghost

this was it after 500,000kms though.........

View attachment 4159162

But it still pumped water and was not making it over heat

 

[ADVFJ80]

What shape is your fan shroud in? Broken or cracked? Is the fan properly placed? (halfway in/out of the narrowest part)
Is the cover plate above your steering shock in place?
The noise you may be hearing could be the AC idler pulley or the alternator belt idler pulley. Replace those as they will also create extra heat through HP drag.

I believe the foam is about 3/4" thick x 1" tall, is like a "truck camper bed" foam gasket. Fairly soft and pliable. Place it between the radiator and the radiator support in the front.

What equipment do you have in front of the grille? Lights? Winch?

Have you flushed you radiator, AC Condenser, from the back side with a garden hose to make sure that it's not clogged with mud, bugs, oil, etc so that it cannot breathe (and cool)?

Thanks for the info on the foam, and the other items to check. Yes, radiator has been flushed twice in the last four years. Radiator and condenser has been flushed multiple times.

I have a 4x4Labs bumper, and winch out front. No lights.

Fan looks properly placed? Not sure how that would be adjusted. As for the shroud above the steering stabilizer, no. I'm pretty far from stock in the suspension department.

 

[robnicko]

But it still pumped water and was not making it over heat

correct although i didnt drive it as soon as it made that sound. so glad it decided to do that at home as opposed to out in the sticks somewhere

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks for the info on the foam, and the other items to check. Yes, radiator has been flushed twice in the last four years. Radiator and condenser has been flushed multiple times.

I have a 4x4Labs bumper, and winch out front. No lights.

Fan looks properly placed? Not sure how that would be adjusted. As for the shroud above the steering stabilizer, no. I'm pretty far from stock in the suspension department.

Not having that plate above the steering shock, it allows air to bypass around the radiator.

 

[ADVFJ80]

Not having that plate above the steering shock, it allows air to bypass around the radiator.

Well, I guess I'll have to crawl under it when I get home!

 

[LongDuck]

As others have said above, hit up Home Despot for suitable foam to bridge the gaps. Before you remove your current Radiator, have a close look around it and you'll see that you only need to close up 1/8-1/4" gaps, at most. The foam you want is open cell and fairly pliable and collapsible so it doesn't affect the rubber mounts for the Radiator. Once foamed up, that helps air flow THRU rather than around the Radiator.

In my experience - and going by what others have shared - there's very little ram-air effect from the truck driving through the air (*at normal highway speeds). You want fairly clean air flow to the condenser and Radiator from the front with no obstructions like grill-mounted license plates or stuff like that. As long as cooler outside air can reach the front of the Radiator, you should be good there.

Lastly, folks are mixed on coolant (*pun!), but Toyota Red at the proper concentration is what Mr. T saw fit and is what I use. I've never had a coolant-related problem with overheating.

 

[Broski]

Just to stir the pot, I have been running standard Green in mine for 10 years without issues
That’s what was in it when I got it for who knows how long.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just to stir the pot, I have been running standard Green in mine for 10 years without issues
That’s what was in it when I got it for who knows how long.

BLASPHEMY!

May your HG blow any minute!