Axel swapping questions! (2 Viewers)

Lyle Kilson

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I recently found and purchased a 1996 FF rear axel to replace my rear SF on my 1994...

845C22D3-5055-4F5A-8EB1-0E845FA45ED0.jpeg

...It’s not pretty now but I have plans to completely rebuild it, media blast, and paint or powder coat it locally along with the rest of my chassis. My question is will this 96 axel fit my 94?
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Sounds like you have a plan! As for the brakes, I would also recommened you go with extended brake lines. Seeing as you are regearing to 4.88, you're probably going to get a lift. The extended lines would prevent stretching the lines to the limit when articulated. I used these: 96940-34705. For the LSVP, there are posts on here talking about how to adjust it. And remember there's a specific order to follow when bleeding brakes.
Yeah I have 3” lift now with 35’s. But I still have the stock 4.10s. I have some sort of steel braided extended break lines left over from the previous owner but I’ll probably end replacing those too. I don’t trust the previous owner AT ALL nice guy, but man I had to do a lot of work after picking it up from him. Do you have any experience with steering stabilizers, drag links, or any other related suspension mods I’m missing out on?
 
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For steering stabilizers, I used the standard OME to match my lift. I have a 2.5" so I have minimal suspension mods. Shocks, springs, steering damper, and caster correction bushings. I don't know of any special attention that drag links need.

With a larger lift, you may want to consider control arm drop brackets and double cardan driveshafts. These help restore the driveline geometry to proper angles. I didn't go with a bigger lift because of the complications. 2.5" is said to be the line upto which lifts do not require intense mods.

Oh, btw: between paint or powdercoat, I say paint. You can more easily touch it up. Powder coat chips and cant be easily restored.
 
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Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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I am not a fan of powder coating, I read somewhere it retains water which could inhibit rust. Trying to milk this 25+ year car already
Yeah I’ve read a couple things about that too. I think the idea is if you DO somehow chip it (which is tough to do) water can get underneath the coating. It is very durable though. On the other hand paint can be touched up:meh:

Im like you in the fact that I want this truck to last 25+ years. I want my girls to eventually drive this truck when they are old enough. It’s gonna be the family heirloom. So I’m not worried about chipping powder coat too much. I don’t plan on jumping it and smashing the undercarriage on boulders. But who knows, maybe I will...

The idea of paint is actually sounding more and more appealing...
 
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Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Joined
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Location
Saint George, UT

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