1994 FZJ80 re-paint- 2-Stage process w/ closure of roof rack (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
951
Location
Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
Re-painting your rig is very hard and expensive, but the end result is gorgeous and I something I am proud of.

Click here for pics of my rig before the painting and what I had to asses (2014) [yea i am a bit on the slow side, just took me 7 years but who is counting right?.

3/15-3/22/2021- begin removing the running board, flares and other nick nacks off the rig installed circa 1994.

EEDC3456-9958-458B-A962-FEEB18F19E1F.jpeg



On 3/22/2021, I arrived at the body shop in Tampa to begin removing the lights, the front guard which was tack welded onto the frame and any other part to make the painting go on nice and neat.
I am planning on putting an ARB so care had to be taken to get the bolts off and not damage the opening.
As you can tell, the paint on my rig was very bad.

Headlight and grille removal:
  1. Remove the center grille (5 JIS screws, 2 on each side and 1 in the center)
  2. Remove the amber corner light. It is held in with 1 JIS screw and you gently pull it towards you to remove the light.
  3. Un-bolt 4 10mm bolts holding the headlight into the frame.
  4. Go ahead and follow the instructions on how to twist the bulbs out. Wipe off the dirt and you will see instructions. Once you remove the bulbs, hold them by the base, wipe off your fingerprints and place them into the headlight. Helps to keep things organize and not bang them up.
  5. Thread all bolts and screws back into their holes so you do not loose anything


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Supply run to the auto body shop to get materials needed.

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Back to the shop.
Time to think about the roof. I went ahead and decided to close up the 2 larger roof racks on the sides and keep the 4 inner ribs. I also decided to close the rear dust visor as it was starting to rust. I am planning a roof rack and roof tent. The items I removed do not fit my future needs for the rig.

  • The outer 2 racks have 2 JIS screws in each cap. I spent the previous week soaking them with penetration oil and was able to get 7 of them out without any issue. The last screw had to be cut off with a small hacksaw.
  • The 4 inner ribs are held on with JIS screws and they were sprayed earlier and came off without any issues.
  • Inner 4 ribs SLIDE OUT. These will be re-used.
  • I then cleaned the rubber with PREPSOL and masked it up. Wiping them down will allow the masking tape to stick better.
  • The holes are sanded as there was surface rust.
I want to add- I had to buy the 2 very long rubber moldings that go on the roof drip edge as well as a new under hood mat. Both were brittle and the under hood mat crumbled when trying to get access to the nozzles and all 12 snaps broke. $500 in 3 parts I really didn't plan on, but had to in order to do the job.

INSULATOR, HOOD - Courtesy Toyota of Brandon$241.1453341-60100
MOULDING, ROOF DRIP SIDE FINISH, RH$111.2175551-60020
MOULDING, ROOF DRIP SIDE FINISH, LH$111.2175552-60020
CLIP(FOR HOOD INSULATOR)$1.34 x 12 = $16.0890467-09014

Since the nozzles broke off, I am going to do the 3 nozzle upgrade.

NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, WASHER$9.02 x 2 = $18.0485381-42070

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That green compound laid is a fiberglass type of bondo. Once it dries, it will be sanded and then epoxy over with the USC Icing (Polyester Finishing putty) Pinholes will be filled with the red putty if they form.
The side mirrors were also removed. I carefully pried the rubber part off so the mirror itself could be sanded and re-painted. I hate over spray!

Time to take care of 27 years worth of dings and bumps son!

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Now it is time to scuff it up. The whole truck is sanded 2 times with the DA using 300 grit paper. A DA sander (dual action), is an orbital sander. The dual actions are combined, they are (1) the circular rotation of the head, and (2), the orbital or oval movement of the head.

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3/24/2021
This was a lot of work to go through the whole car with the DA 2 times. I am putting in about 12 hours a day as I am working on the truck myself with a helper from time to time.
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Time to prime all of the places where we had to fix the bumps and holes. It was lightly washed and then it is going into the paint booth. Using the air compressor, we blew as much of the dirt off.
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Care is given to the fender flares, which were cracked by road damage by the PO. I wanted them repaired and ready to be put back onto the truck in case I do not go with the Kut Snake style fenders and keep my options open.
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It is time to call the paint shops and get quotes for the PPG paint I want to use on the truck. To paint the entire truck, it will require 3 quarts. With a 1:1 ratio, that will make over a gallon. I really want someone to call around and check the price of this paint, Shop Line JBP 6M1 3 quarts. No shortcuts here.


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Cowl and fender flares were the first to be sanded and painted.
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3/25-3/26/2021
The worst days of my life begin. Wet sanding the entire truck by hand followed by a wash with soap and air drying. Also, washing out the jams and creases (think a full detail at the wash)
  1. Wet sand with 400 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
  2. Wet sand with 600 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
  3. Wet sand with 800 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
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3/26/2021 late afternoon.
Final wash before going inside to be masked up.
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3/27/2021
Time to start masking the car up. This took all day. If you look close at the hatch and the last photo, I double edged the jams with foam tape to prevent overspray into the jams and making sure all of the lights, the locks, the rear emblem and wiper are all off. I want this to look as close to original as possible.
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Had to apply some red putty as some pinholes were noticed


The rig windows are masked and also that blacked out side area near the windows.
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In this photo you can see the amount of stuff taken off the rear hatch. So much care went into masking the rubber gasket.
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Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
951
Location
Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
Lol you are right

I’m over here building an overland type rig and looking at all these trails I want to go on which will probably not happen for some time ... worst case is I just use it to shuffle the family to and from the beach or a local camp site :bang:
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
951
Location
Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
More unicorns killed in restoring this rig, mostly because they were cracked and destroyed. The outside molding was all peeling up from the sun. The louvers were all cracked from the POS PO.

MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, RH$20.7675660-60010
MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, LH$20.7675670-60010
MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, RH$34.1275710-60011
MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, LH$34.4375740-60010
MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, RH$33.3875730-60010
MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, LH$34.1275720-60011
LOUVER, QUATER VENTILATION, RH$47.4262905-60020
LOUVER, QUATER VENTILATION, LH$48.4662906-60020

These mouldings I bought are sold on partsouq.com and NOT THE OEM JET BLACK. They have this trim of chrome in them.

If you want the jet black OEM, you have to call the USA toyota dealers and here is the part number for those. Notice the 2 in the last set of part numbers below from my table above. They run about $80 each plus tax so for 6 pieces, you are at $480 for trim... (and they will curl up at the edges in 20 years)

75710-60021 MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, RH
75740-60020 REAR DOOR BELT, LH.
75730-60020 MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, RH
75720-60021 MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, LH
75660-60020 MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, RH
75670-60020 MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, LH
 
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