Axel swapping questions! (1 Viewer)

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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I recently found and purchased a 1996 FF rear axel to replace my rear SF on my 1994...

845C22D3-5055-4F5A-8EB1-0E845FA45ED0.jpeg

...It’s not pretty now but I have plans to completely rebuild it, media blast, and paint or powder coat it locally along with the rest of my chassis. My question is will this 96 axel fit my 94?
 
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I assume you dont plan on elongating the axel at all and that it is just a swap in. In that case it is a direct bolt on. I was thinking about buying a 97' rear and swapping it into my 92'. Im not sure what SF and FF mean butttt it is obsolete in regards to swapping in. If i can find the website that sells oem axels I will link. I so recommend getting longer brake lines. As much as I hate Icon with a firey passion, they have good steel lines. Also recommend mig welding steel on the suspension base due to the apparent fatigue. just dont warp to bad ;)
 
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I did this exactly if I have 1994 FZJ80 i would like to have FF with disk brakes not the SF with C clip and drum brakes

YOU WILL NEED THE HAND BRAKE CABLE FORM THE FF RIG

you can look at my build thread

SF - semi float yacccch
FF - full float goooood
portal the best (NO OEM)
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Saint George, UT
I assume you dont plan on elongating the axel at all and that it is just a swap in. In that case it is a direct bolt on. I was thinking about buying a 97' rear and swapping it into my 92'. Im not sure what SF and FF mean butttt it is obsolete in regards to swapping in. If i can find the website that sells oem axels I will link. I so recommend getting longer brake lines. As much as I hate Icon with a firey passion, they have good steel lines. Also recommend mig welding steel on the suspension base due to the apparent fatigue. just dont warp to bad ;)
Thanks for your feedback man. SF = Semi-Float. FF = Full-Float. I’m happy to hear it’s just a bolt on. I’ve heard this was the case I just wanted a few more opinions. @cruiseroutfit has all the OEM parts I need to rebuild this thing including axels. I have longer break lines now but the dummy who fabricated my exhaust paid no mind to my break lines and I just about melted through my rear break line:bang:. Needless to say replacing break lines is Great advice. I’ll look into Icon...and I’m still trying to convince the wife we need a welder!
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Saint George, UT
I did this exactly if I have 1994 FZJ80 i would like to have FF with disk brakes not the SF with C clip and drum brakes

YOU WILL NEED THE HAND BRAKE CABLE FORM THE FF RIG

you can look at my build thread

SF - semi float yacccch
FF - full float goooood
portal the best (NO OEM)
Thanks for your reply! Looks like we are on the same page. I’ll for sure follow your build and get that break cable. Thanks again:cheers:
 
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Thanks for the heads up. The valve acts like a reducer right? Less fluid pressure?
yeah pretty much, since there needs to be more stopping force in the front it will reduce the pressure in the back so that it is a safe split. and since drum brakes need less force you will have to "recalibrate" hence the introduction of the valve. Brake balance is something that is often overlooked while doing a swap in any car. Im not completely sure but some master cylinders will have them built in.
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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yeah pretty much, since there needs to be more stopping force in the front it will reduce the pressure in the back so that it is a safe split. and since drum brakes need less force you will have to "recalibrate" hence the introduction of the valve. Brake balance is something that is often overlooked while doing a swap in any car. Im not completely sure but some master cylinders will have them built in.
That sounds totally logical to me. Damnit I love this forum! I’ll post help questions when I get stuck which I’m sure I will.
 
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Oh man Lyle I just swapped my front axles and i can’t but call my friends over if you are alone. My friends are
  1. Harbor freight 3 Ton low profile jack
  2. Oem bottle jack
  3. Heavy duty zip ties to suspend stuff without a helper
They won’t drink all of your beer. Doing my rear in a few weeks after my back and wrist heal. I just painted the girl also and wet sanding 3x by hand ain’t fun
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Oh man Lyle I just swapped my front axles and i can’t but call my friends over if you are alone. My friends are
  1. Harbor freight 3 Ton low profile jack
  2. Oem bottle jack
  3. Heavy duty zip ties to suspend stuff without a helper
They won’t drink all of your beer. Doing my rear in a few weeks after my back and wrist heal. I just painted the girl also and wet sanding 3x by hand ain’t fun
Those are the best kind of friends...the ones that don’t drink all you’re beer. Looks like I’ll have to head over to your buddy Harbor Frights house. I’m jealous you just painted. That’s like the last thing on my list, but the thing I want the most!

Do you have any experience swapping frames?
 
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If you are going to completely rebuild the axle, I would look into dropping in a locker since it will all be apart anyway. I did the SF to FF conversion on my 92, along with a lift and locker+regear. lt1fire is correct, you do need a 93+ hand brake cable. I am still running the 92 LSPV and brake master. Brake propertioning is fine, although brakes are kinda soft probably due to old worn out master cylinder. The shop who installed the axle said they backed out the LSPV almost to the max and it behaves fine.
 

Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Joined
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Saint George, UT
If you are going to completely rebuild the axle, I would look into dropping in a locker since it will all be apart anyway. I did the SF to FF conversion on my 92, along with a lift and locker+regear. lt1fire is correct, you do need a 93+ hand brake cable. I am still running the 92 LSPV and brake master. Brake propertioning is fine, although brakes are kinda soft probably due to old worn out master cylinder. The shop who installed the axle said they backed out the LSPV almost to the max and it behaves fine.
The axel is on its way here today and I couldn’t be mor excited🤘🏻 I plan on dropping off the third members at @cruiseroutfit to have them put in 4.88’s and ARBs. The problem is that it’ll cost $3500-$4000 to have both diffs rebuilt, re-geared, and lockedo_O I figured I’d buy the axel while it’s available, completely disassemble it, clean it, media blast it, and either paint or powder coat it(I haven’t decided yet). Then that axel will just have to sit in it’s beautiful disassembled glory until I can save my pennies.

I’m swapping out the axel myself when the time comes so I’ll defiantly need help with the LSVP and breaks seeing as Ive never done this before.
 
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Sounds like you have a plan! As for the brakes, I would also recommened you go with extended brake lines. Seeing as you are regearing to 4.88, you're probably going to get a lift. The extended lines would prevent stretching the lines to the limit when articulated. I used these: 96940-34705. For the LSVP, there are posts on here talking about how to adjust it. And remember there's a specific order to follow when bleeding brakes.
 

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