Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel Installation in a Base GX460 (2 Viewers)

[THEOZMAN]

This is my first write up ever so be gentle.

This write up is for the installation of Auxbeam 8 gang switch panel (Or such) in a base trim 2012 Lexus GX460. I have created my own fuse and relay boxes with switches before, but for the money, functionality, and time savings, this is a solid option. I chose this model because of the auto dimming which means less wires to be integrated with OEM wiring. I hate green LEDs, so I went with blue Backlit version which is more expensive but better for my sanity. I could not justify paying a high premium for SPOD or SWITCHPRO setups.

This install has the Auxbeam switch panel activated by a Toyota small switch that is always connected to the battery via an OE fuse box inside the vehicle. this way I can turn on the accessories while the vehicle is off (Don't forget them on LOL).

My goal with any modification I do is to not mess or drill in factory brackets or plastics (When possible)

These are my mounting solutions to fit my needs, so if you find another way/Spot, post it below.

Auxbeam 8 gang Switch panel on Amazon:

Amazon product ASIN B08J6W4TJG
"Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel Automatic Dimmable LED On-Off Car Switch Panel Electronic Relay System LED Car Touch Switch Box Universal for Truck ATV UTV Boat Marine SUV Car - Blue Backlit"


Under the hood:

I found the best location for the Fuse/Terminal box in Under this cover. Which is removable by 4 plastic clips that like to jump around and get lost. As you will see in the final picture, this location keeps all the wiring rats nests hidden and somewhat protected.

I will be mounting the cradle that was supplied with the switch panel to this bracket.

I made a little bracket out of Aluminum to support the other side of the cradle.

Cradle has a little lip that will get perfectly sandwiched in a little grove on OE bracket.

I then Installed the bracket assembly back using the 2, 12mm bolts.

 

[THEOZMAN]

Install the Fuse/Terminal box onto cradle using supplied hardware. (I already installed the main power leads to the Fuse/Terminal box and added an Anderson Plug extension for my portable air compressor to piggyback on the supplied 60 Amp Fuse.

Leave the Main power wiring till later.

Next, sending wires to the other side of the firewall.
Cut a little slit in the big grommet using a box cutter (this worked for me for many years on many vehicles before without any issues. You can seal it back with some marine or silicon sealant.)
The extension for the switch panel should be more than enough in length to reach most mounting locations inside the cabin, but it is just a simple 4 wire extension and its can be extended even more.
The red wire is your trigger to activate the switch panel. This can be wired directly to an ACC using an ADD-A-FUSE or connected to a switch like in my setup.

 

[THEOZMAN]

Inside the Vehicle:

The following trim pieces will be removed in this order:

• Knee rest on center console (just clips, insert trim tool and pry out)
• 
• Lower cover (one Philips screw and finagle it off, there might be wires still connected depending on your trim level. No need to detach, just push out of the way)
• 
• Door Sill (just clips, Pry out with trim tool)
• 
• Foot well corner cover (hand tight plastic nut next to the footrest)
• 
• Main cover (2 screws on the bottom and a s*** ton of evil clips. Leave the air bag cover in place. Pry out with a trim tool and let hang.
• 

 

[THEOZMAN]

Depending on your trim level you may have fewer blank spots to add switches.
Insert the switch in an open slot right side up.
Wiring the switch:

1 - Wire to ADD-A-FUSE to fuse panel.

2 - Wire to red wire coming from the Fuse/Terminal Box under the hood.

3 - Wire to the interior lighting circuit (I chose to tap into the OE switch wiring next door)

4 - Wire to a ground nearby (I used an Eyelet and to an existing screw)

As I have the base trim, I had wiring for the other switches that were not functional so I tapped into one of those to get Backlight signal (Green Wire).

I decided to temporarily (maybe permanently) mount the switch panel in this location using double sided tape (did not stick, need to figure out another way) (I hate screwing into OE plastic and trim). the circled switch is the power switch to activate the switch panel.

I then connected the ADD-A-FUSE to the fuse box under the dash driver side. I have 2 empty spots that had power supplied to them. make sure to find which side is the power coming to and which side it fused.

Back to Under the Hood:

Connect the main leads to the battery terminals and contrary to common beliefs, the RED wire GOES to the POSITIVE terminal and the BLACK wire GOES to the NEGATIVE terminal. I hooked the black wire to the side body ground. (I didn't connect the red wire because I don't have any accessories to use just yet) mount the fuse nice and secure to the OE fuse box or somewhere else. Don't just leave it hanging. Circled is the Anderson plug I added for my portable air compressor.

 

[THEOZMAN]

Final View:

Can barely see any wiring and all the mess when adding accessories will be hidden under that big plastic cover.

Have fun and enjoy. Many more mods to come and if you have any questions, post them below and I will answer as best as I can.

 

[r2m]

Great write up! I have a gang switch panel on my rig also, but have it mounted vertically right next to my steering column on the left side. Works great there.
Regarding your double back tape not working, a couple of suggestions:

1. Clean your surface really good with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) and don't touch it after it's cleaned.
2. I attached mine with adhesive hook and loop (Velcro) so I can move it if necessary and it provides a little cushion for vibration. I've never had an issue with the adhesive in the last couple of years being mounted there.

Also, can the button block be mounted vertical or are the symbols not perfectly square and have to be horizontal?

 

[THEOZMAN]

Great write up! I have a gang panel on my rig also, but have it mounted vertically right next to my steering column on the left side. Works great there.
Regarding your double back tape not working, a couple of suggestions:

1. Clean your surface really good with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) and don't touch it after it's cleaned.
2. I attached mine with adhesive hook and loop (Velcro) so I can move it if necessary and it provides a little cushion for vibration. I've never had an issue with the adhesive in the last couple of years being mounted there.

Also, can the button block be mounted vertical or are the symbols not perfectly square and have to be horizontal?

Thank you for the suggestion. I will try the hook and loop solution.
Unfortunately, the switch panel have rectangular labels so they will be sideways if mounted vertically. but honestly, the difference is not much and a little backlight will bleed from the sides. I am looking into finding other labels that are the same size to use. I will post here if I find anything.

 

[r2m]

Can you maybe print your own on a clear sheet of "over head" film? Remember over-head projectors?
Or some other somewhat thick injet (or laser if that's what you have) printable transparency film.
Amazon product ASIN B07S6Z8DMR

 

[THEOZMAN]

Man, you are full of great ideas. I will looking the Printable transparent film.
And yes, I do remember the Over head projector. Great memories of messing with instructors slides.

 

[Gx460sd]

Nice, I just installed one of these myself. I noticed there are a few brands that sold the same switch so I just bought the cheapest one

 

[Jstawgn]

I bought one last thanks giving for 50% off. The are not programmable but for the price and convenience to install multiple lights they hard to beat.

 

[jmanscotch]

Nicely done for a first write up!

 

[THEOZMAN]

Nice, I just installed one of these myself. I noticed there are a few brands that sold the same switch so I just bought the cheapest one

That is true. I just preferred the 2 year Auxbeam warranty and Amazon bulletproof return policy

 

[THEOZMAN]

I bought one last thanks giving for 50% off. The are not programmable but for the price and convenience to install multiple lights they hard to beat.

Accurate statement as I didnt really need all the fancy features. For the first time ever, I dont go all out and buy the most expensive option haha

 

[THEOZMAN]

Nicely done for a first write up!

Thank you, I enjoy doing electrical work on vehicle so hopefully more write ups to come. I must say, it is more work than I originally anticipated, having to pause the install to take pictures and planning the steps and all that jazz.

 

[r2m]

Thank you, I enjoy doing electrical work on vehicle so hopefully more write ups to come. I must say, it is more work than I originally anticipated, having to pause the install to take pictures and planning the steps and all that jazz.

LOL, that you like the "electrical" That's the part I DON'T like!! I'm a mechanical person so I try to always keep my electrical simple. The most complicated thing I've ever built has been my 3D printer.

 

[THEOZMAN]

LOL, that you like the "electrical" That's the part I DON'T like!! I'm a mechanical person so I try to always keep my electrical simple. The most complicated thing I've ever built has been my 3D printer.

I am an Electrical Engineer and been into it since I was first shocked by an outlet around 5 years old LOL

 

[r2m]

Maybe that's why my degrees are in biomedical/mechanical and systems engineering instead of electrical engineering. Maybe I was shocked when I was a kid?? lol

 

[THEOZMAN]

Maybe that's why my degrees are in biomedical/mechanical and systems engineering instead of electrical engineering. Maybe I was shocked when I was a kid?? lol

It all affects us differently.
what kind of systems engineering? Automation is my field of expertise.

 

[r2m]

My masters degree is engineering systems management, basically trimming and tuning manufacturing processes, but not designing and building automated fixtures, just pointing out where and how one could be used for efficiency.