ARB rear bumper wiring

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Curt 56196 2 to 3 wire converter did the trick for my 03 LC with ARB rear bumper and the rear lights.
 
I was able to get it 90% there without a converter by skipping the factory plug and just tapping into the wiring. Only issue right now is that my indicators light up when pressing the brakes. Would the converter eliminate that problem or do I need to wire the indicators directly to those in the taillights?
 
I was able to get it 90% there without a converter by skipping the factory plug and just tapping into the wiring. Only issue right now is that my indicators light up when pressing the brakes. Would the converter eliminate that problem or do I need to wire the indicators directly to those in the taillights?
Yeah that’s the function of the curt converter. towing combines turn and stop. The curt converter separates them again. How it does that I have no idea. Yes you can just tap into the turn signal harness but I liked having all my wiring in one place
 
Fantastic, ordering now. Thanks!
 
Just got a fresh ARB bumper for my 1994 and we found this old thread about it while trying to connect the new lights.

Figured I'd share what ARB chat support told me when I asked why their "plug and play" harness didn't have my plug ends. The Hopkins kit he recommends looks pretty cool actually. Although I'll just be cutting the ends out to re-wire into my factory connectors :D

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This is the ARB side White is Ground.
3 Connectors (one is a 3 Pin but only has two legs installed)

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Colors are pretty straight forward but not laid out nicely in any instructions I found.

Red = Stop
Brown = Running/Marker Lights
Yellow = Left Turn Signal
Green = Right Turn Signal
White = Ground

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I am sorry but the connector that is installed on the bumper loom is only compatible with Australian vehicles with 7 pin trailer harness US Toyota models use 4 pin trailer wiring with a combined stop/turn circuit. There is a wiring adapter available from Hopkins that will provide you with wiring to connect to the bumper loom without cutting any of your factory wiring. The Hopkins part # is 43405 and is available online. If you are planning to tow with your 80 series and will still need a trailer harness you could use scotch lock or 3 way t connectors on the body side of the Hopkins adapter and still use the Hopkins trailer plug if not you can simply cut the 5 body side wires and connect them to the bare trailer wiring ends of the bumper loom. The wiring colors will match and the bumper lights will function as designed. If you have any further questions please respond on this support ticket.
Install pdf of the Hopkins kit. https://www.hopkins411.com/doc/instruction-sheet/43405_INST.pdf

These trailer wiring codes seem helpful in general when comparing different connection types out there. https://hopkinstowingsolutions.com/doc/trailer-wiring-codes.pdf


And for a couple before and afterish photos.

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Well my CURT purchase was NOT helpful. Thing does not work and every time you turn on a light, blinker or break...this thing clicks and clacks and turns on a different light each time. What a PITA. Even see it change based on vehicle running vs. off with voltage change. Guess I will just tap into the factory harness. I will attach below.
 
On my 2003 100 Series LC using the curt 56196 to wire the ARB bumper. I did this in 2021 so I’m going by some notes I kept and memory.
I went nuts with mine too, being color blind doesn’t help (I had to get my kids to ID some colors. I also used a 12v test light to help me figure what was what from the LC. On mine the LC wire red was left turn, connected to curt input yellow. From LC Brown was right turn was connected to curt input green. From the LC the Geen wire is the running / tail light and was connected directly to Brown on the bumper harness(no converter). The output of the curt was just straight color match.
Hope something here helps.
 
Look right to you? Really only one way to wire this. But the curt unit goes nuts and can’t keep the lights working correctly
Don't wire it up blindly color to color and be surprised it doesn't work...


But it if is correct, check the voltage at the trailer connector. Sounds like it might be a resistance from old wiring issue
 
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I gave up and just tapped into the factory harness that runs across the back of the LC. Wire for wire...all 5. Worked great. Just took some tome to identify, strip, splice and solder.
@BullRunOverland you wouldn’t by chance remember or have pictures for which ones you spliced? I can see that the tail light wires and the ones on the bumper would line up one-for-one (three for the combined stop/running light, two for the turn light) but once those wires run into/underneath the car it’s hard to start matching.
 
I don't. And with the dirt and limited space I just wanted it done. I used a test light and my son to run through the blinkers, marker and brake lights. Cut and pasted as I identified. Drop the rear tire for more room if its still up there. Good place to cut was along the rear cross member just to the passenger side from center.
 

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