Anyone used AT-205 to seal front axle?
- Thread starter romelm
- Start date
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How would you propose to use it?
I think the problem is that they get worn. Also the axle shaft develops a groove. I don't think you could fix that chemically.
- Thread starter
- #5
Ok, so here is my experience and I want to share. This is just my experience with the product.
- Front hubs been leaking daily since I purchased the Land 45 days ago - needs a rebuild I know
- I know the gear oil is low in the front axle because of the daily puddles about the size of an orange in diameter, dripped off the inside of the tires onto the payment, even though the oil was changed already
- Purchased (1) Bottle of AT-205 and (1) QT. of SAE 90 gear oil to top off axle
- (1) bottle of AT-205 treats (6) QT's
- I poured half the bottle into the front axle using a NEW turkey baster
- Topped off the gear oil, used about 3/4's of the bottle of gear oil
- Drove the car for 50 miles
- Parked it over night, came out the next morning, one side of the axle was no longer leaking and the other side had a drip the size of a 50 cent piece
- Drove the car another 50 miles, parked it again - overnight. Now no leaks on either side.
- I know there probably is no more grease in the birfield joint, where there was soup before, but it should still have some lubrication
- Knuckles are still wet, but no more drips. I am going to hit them with degreaser and the power washer to further monitor
- Front hubs been leaking daily since I purchased the Land 45 days ago - needs a rebuild I know
- I know the gear oil is low in the front axle because of the daily puddles about the size of an orange in diameter, dripped off the inside of the tires onto the payment, even though the oil was changed already
- Purchased (1) Bottle of AT-205 and (1) QT. of SAE 90 gear oil to top off axle
- (1) bottle of AT-205 treats (6) QT's
- I poured half the bottle into the front axle using a NEW turkey baster
- Topped off the gear oil, used about 3/4's of the bottle of gear oil
- Drove the car for 50 miles
- Parked it over night, came out the next morning, one side of the axle was no longer leaking and the other side had a drip the size of a 50 cent piece
- Drove the car another 50 miles, parked it again - overnight. Now no leaks on either side.
- I know there probably is no more grease in the birfield joint, where there was soup before, but it should still have some lubrication
- Knuckles are still wet, but no more drips. I am going to hit them with degreaser and the power washer to further monitor
Ok well you just over-filled it. It should only be about 3/4 of the way full. I would crack open that top square plug and remove a bit.
- Thread starter
- #9
Hmm, of all the 4x4's I have had. Montero, Daihatsu Rocky....etc. I was told when it flows out slowly, your good. Screw the bolt back in. I guess with the Land its different. I will leave it alone for now.
You know what, now that you mention it. Ever since I topped it off, I dont hear the infamous "clunk" when going from P to D. I maybe onto something..........two birds with one stone type of deal.....
You know what, now that you mention it. Ever since I topped it off, I dont hear the infamous "clunk" when going from P to D. I maybe onto something..........two birds with one stone type of deal.....
You are leaving no room for expansion and movement. Oil doesn't like to compress 
I wouldn't look at any other 4X4 in your treatment of LCs. I stopped doing that a long time ago because it kept getting me in trouble.
I wouldn't look at any other 4X4 in your treatment of LCs. I stopped doing that a long time ago because it kept getting me in trouble.
Huh?! The square plug is pretty much at the top of the knuckle. You need to use that "previously new" turkey baster and remove some of the moly. The moly level needs to be LOWER than the fill plug. If you can stick your pinky in and touch moly its likely over filled.
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- Thread starter
- #13
Some confusion here: when i filled the front axle, I unscrewed the 6 point bolt in the middle of the axle(the one I rounded trying to get off the first time, then had to take it in), on the front. Just above the drain bolt if you will. Not sure what your refering to about square plug. I never messed with that..
Ok ok, THAT is your diff. If your inner seal is in working order then the oil and moly don't mix. Yes for the diff its until the gear oil flows out.
- Thread starter
- #17
HA! Its like the "whos on first" skit. Ok, so now I need to pack my birfield joint. Just did a search and many threads on it, but no picture of where it is. I saw one thread, but the picture was removed. Do you have one to post?
why pussy foot around with an additive when you know it needs a rebuild. Thats like putting a band-aid on a severed limb, might as well get the rebuild kit & tools even if its on credit then do the job. Get it done right and don't waste money on additives.
- Thread starter
- #19
I dont have the tools to install it myself - really dont think I could do it either, and my only options below.
- Dealer $1308 parts included
- SD Trux $1100 parts included
I know the kit is like $140 shipped, do you know anyone in San Diego that can do it cheaper??
- Dealer $1308 parts included
- SD Trux $1100 parts included
I know the kit is like $140 shipped, do you know anyone in San Diego that can do it cheaper??
you can do it its very easy. There are information step by step videos on youtube that are fantastic. I'm sure there are mudders around your that wouldn't mind helping either. I paid 240 for a very comprehensive kit from marlin crawler (bearings and everything) and it took me two days and about 8 rolls of paper towels. All the tools are common sizes except for the 54 mm socket to remove the spindle nuts but thats like 8 bucks at nappa. Do not go to the dealer, this is a 700 dollar job + parts so maybe 1000. If you do the labor its 300 or less. Also if you do the work yourself then you start accumulating tools, and the jobs become even cheaper.
The unfortunate thing about the 80 series is that they are getting up there in age and as such need a decent amount of maintenance. The worst thing you can do is put band-aids on things that you know need work. Then you end up with a list of 20 things needing major service rather than one at a time.
Someone from San Diego chime in!
The unfortunate thing about the 80 series is that they are getting up there in age and as such need a decent amount of maintenance. The worst thing you can do is put band-aids on things that you know need work. Then you end up with a list of 20 things needing major service rather than one at a time.
Someone from San Diego chime in!