Anyone swap rear springs? (2 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

2. Thanks for this information, I had not even considered bag stretch. It’s probably wise to have new bags ready to install before starting this project.

3. Take these measurements while loaded for a trip, I assume. This is not a daily driver so there is not much difference in gear that it carries. I have a 10mm and 5mm spacer so between these I should be able to get it in spec.

Thanks.

3. technically your call, I would do them based on your normal load... if that's loaded up for a trip then do it that way. Or you could measure unladen and fully loaded and take the average if it seems like you'll be way off in one direction depending on weight. I think the FSM's spec of "within 15mm" is done as unladen (but with vehicle options) but I don't think it's set in stone to do it that way if your scenario is a bit different.

Edit: FYI my front alignment is set assuming excessive weight in the rear, even though the FSM would say to do it unladen, because I know that when weighing down the trunk the nose will lift and the tires will add camber and reduce caster.

 

[Artie]

3. technically your call, I would do them based on your normal load... if that's loaded up for a trip then do it that way. Or you could measure unladen and fully loaded and take the average if it seems like you'll be way off in one direction depending on weight. I think the FSM's spec of "within 15mm" is done as unladen (but with vehicle options) but I don't think it's set in stone to do it that way if your scenario is a bit different.

Edit: FYI my front alignment is set assuming excessive weight in the rear, even though the FSM would say to do it unladen, because I know that when weighing down the trunk the nose will lift and the tires will add camber and reduce caster.

I gotcha, this all makes sense. Looking over my spreadsheet I’m leaning toward no spacer as I’m within the spec.

 

[linuxgod]

I gotcha, this all makes sense. Looking over my spreadsheet I’m leaning toward no spacer as I’m within the spec.

If you’re within 1/2” unloaded and loaded then I definitely wouldn’t bother. If it varies a lot when you’re loaded then maybe consider a small one to get you closer. That said normally the difference should shrink as you load down for a trip since you’re adding weight (hopefully evenly) and compressing both springs

 

[Artie]

Moving from 2722 ->2723

How far down do I want these bags before installing them?

 

[Artie]

I figured the bag situation out. As mentioned in a previous post, you will want new bags if you are changing springs and want to keep a bag set up. My used ones were deformed at the top. I’m not sure if this is normal wear or evidence of too heavy loads omand too high PSI. I would run yhese bags at max psi (60psi) when towing and 15 psi just driving around town.

New 2723’s may be the sweet spot for my set up. I’m going to test out with the camper this week.

Rear hight went up .75” with the minimum 5psi in the bags, previously I was running 15psi and .75”’lower. I’m half an inch too high to get in the garage now, I had my wife push the door up higher with a stick and was able to get in. It’s my maxtrax mounting stud things clipping the door. Either these springs will settle in some or I’ll make a change in how I carry the traction boards.

Old bags:

 

[bloc]

I figured the bag situation out. As mentioned in a previous post, you will want new bags if you are changing springs and want to keep a bag set up. My used ones were deformed at the top. I’m not sure if this is normal wear or evidence of too heavy loads omand too high PSI. I would run yhese bags at max psi (60psi) when towing and 15 psi just driving around town.

New 2723’s may be the sweet spot for my set up. I’m going to test out with the camper this week.

Rear hight went up .75” with the minimum 5psi in the bags, previously I was running 15psi and .75”’lower. I’m half an inch too high to get in the garage now, I had my wife push the door up higher with a stick and was able to get in. It’s my maxtrax mounting stud things clipping the door. Either these springs will settle in some or I’ll make a change in how I carry the traction boards.

Old bags:
View attachment 3717066

You may be able to adjust the door as well.

 

[gasman4u]

I figured the bag situation out. As mentioned in a previous post, you will want new bags if you are changing springs and want to keep a bag set up. My used ones were deformed at the top. I’m not sure if this is normal wear or evidence of too heavy loads omand too high PSI. I would run yhese bags at max psi (60psi) when towing and 15 psi just driving around town.

New 2723’s may be the sweet spot for my set up. I’m going to test out with the camper this week.

Rear hight went up .75” with the minimum 5psi in the bags, previously I was running 15psi and .75”’lower. I’m half an inch too high to get in the garage now, I had my wife push the door up higher with a stick and was able to get in. It’s my maxtrax mounting stud things clipping the door. Either these springs will settle in some or I’ll make a change in how I carry the traction boards.

Old bags:
View attachment 3717066

Don’t worry about the door @bloc @Artie Just remember to have your wife ready with the stick!

 

[Artie]

You may be able to adjust the door as well.

Actually, this is on my to do list for today.

 

[linuxgod]

The bags hang down from the top jounce stop. Once they compress it should push a bit of the air line up above the jounce stop... just remove that slack at the top and the bag will hang in the spring. (Or at least that's what I did).

I didn't have the kevlar sleeves but my bags were only rated for 30psi. I used to run them at 5psi when empty so as not to affect my normal ride too much and then 30psi when towing.

 

[Artie]

Had a chance to tow with the new springs… I wish I had these from the jump. 400lb tongue weight dropped the rear 1.25 inches, 25psi in the bags and it’s level. Truck is stable and feels more planted over bumps.

Hopefully, this will solve my tire cupping issue.

For future reference, my set up is: 2724’s, dual swing out bumper with 2 jerrycans of water, 40 gallon LRA, skids and sliders, drawers, and 350-400lb tongue weight trailer.

 

[linuxgod]

Had a chance to tow with the new springs… I wish I had these from the jump. 400lb tongue weight dropped the rear 1.25 inches, 25psi in the bags and it’s level. Truck is stable and feels more planted over bumps.

Hopefully, this will solve my tire cupping issue.

For future reference, my set up is: 2724’s, dual swing out bumper with 2 jerrycans of water, 40 gallon LRA, skids and sliders, drawers, and 350-400lb tongue weight trailer.

Probably won't help your tire cupping. You're lifting the rear up but the weight has still shifted off the front so the front tires are still adding the same positive camber and negative caster. The only way to get them back to the right alignment is to use more weight distrbution in your setup.

Airbags and stiffer springs will help control your handling, reduce the likelihood of hitting the bump stops, and ensure your headlights are better aimed though.

 

[Artie]

Probably won't help your tire cupping. You're lifting the rear up but the weight has still shifted off the front so the front tires are still adding the same positive camber and negative caster. The only way to get them back to the right alignment is to use more weight distrbution in your setup.

Airbags and stiffer springs will help control your handling, reduce the likelihood of hitting the bump stops, and ensure your headlights are better aimed though.

Alignment is in the near future. I’m at 3 on the caster now, will add more there and address the camber at alignment. Thankfully, I have access to a Toyota friendly shop with a penchant for perfection. Hopefully we can get it to where it needs to be.