Anyone struggle with Rear UCA replacement?

[AARONTLC]

I am doing this job right now on a 2001LC non AHC stock height. I jacked up the body until my 6 ton jack stands were fully extended and placed them on the frame rear of the rear wheels. When I lowered the jack down the wheels droop to the floor but extends the spring to where my bolt passed through the coils. I got the passenger side done very easily. I blew the seal in my 12 ton hydraulic press starting the drivers side. Installing a 20 ton tonight so I can finish.

 

[scubadoober]

Wrapped up the panhard bar and lowers last night. The only minor advise is keep a long 3/8" extension to move your bushings around, and place the bolts in the rear of the lowers arms first. I had to jack the passenger rear frame up a little to help get the new panhard lined up. Easy one banana job, and I was spraying cold galvanizing in all the hidden areas when I took the arms off. Surface rust is something you have to punch in the mouth every time you replace items.

 

[scubadoober]

Wrapped up the uppers last night, and it was not as bad as I thought. Driver's side needed some help by jacking up at the hitch, and a mini-pry on the bracket to get the bolt in. Passenger side front bushing next to the muffler was TOAST, but the bolts dropped in after replacement. It is very tight torquing the bolts with the suspension at ride height (especially on the passenger). I hit the rear bolt on the passenger side with the big rattle gun since there was no way to get the 1/2" torque wrench in there. I'm still calling it a one banana job. Bolt heads were 19mm, and nuts were 24mm on all.

 

[Jack90210]

It's a great time to hit these areas with rustproofing of choice, especially if you pull the muffler and/or other items for access (I pulled the muffler, the rear hitch, and I forget what else). Also it's a good time to replace the rear diff breather valve and hoses.