Any options for custom front stabilizer links?

[NLScooby]

I know a few of us with Tundra IFS lifts and/or KDSS relocation brackets have the same issue where our front stabilizer bar links are being tweaked to a point where the bushings are likely being asked to flex beyond their design parameters (for an extended period of time).

Are there any options our there for Longer Links or custom bent/fabbed links? In my case (Tundra IFS), I think simply having a longer link (by 1.5" or so) would really help get the stabilizer bar back to the stock height geometry. Those with KDSS relocation brackets may need something more custom.

Currently I know @Willy beamin has mounted his links on the outside of the control arm bracket - which I think I will do as a stop-gap measure....but I'd prefer a longer unit mounted in the factory location.

Here's what I'm referring to:

 

[TonyP]

Heim joint or uniball in place of the rubber bushing but it'll probably interfere with the mount.

Aside from that, you can probably just make your own links fairly easily.

Or just drop down a tire size.

 

[TexAZ]

on the passenger side, use the tundra link. it has a bend in it. other than that, custom links will probably have to be made

 

[Atwalz]

If you want to retain the factory bushings, remove the bushing, cut the link, put a custom bend and longer link then weld em together, heat treat and reinstall bushing to relieve the stress. I may look into it when I have time.

 

[NLScooby]

That photo above is a new Tundra link on the passenger side.....and quite honestly it looked strikingly similar to the LC one that came off of it!

 

[NLScooby]

If you want to retain the factory bushings, remove the bushing, cut the link, put a custom bend and longer link then weld em together, heat treat and reinstall bushing to relieve the stress. I may look into it when I have time.

I was secretly hoping someone smarter than me - would do this! My clever plan is working....bwahhh, hah, hah haaaaa.

 

[NLScooby]

Heim joint or uniball in place of the rubber bushing but it'll probably interfere with the mount.

Aside from that, you can probably just make your own links fairly easily.

Or just drop down a tire size.

I only have 285/70/17's and I'm not running a KDSS relocation bracket. In my case this issue is being caused by my Tundra IFS swap and a taller lift than most. I like the Heim joint idea - but I prefer a rubber bushing here...

Interestingly, the driver's looks like a cast part while the Tundra passenger side is not.

 

[TonyP]

For a non-bushing type, something like this would work. But just a curved dog bone should be easy enough to fab up and press in your own rubber.

For $100 it's worth a shot. Maybe I'll something like this before anything else.

AWR Heim-Jointed Sway Bar End Link Set for 90-05 Miata

 

[ohsix]

Did anyone ever find or develop a better sway bar link?

I changed out the suspension on my '17 Land Cruiser over the weekend. I'm running 285/75R17 tires on Rock Warrior wheels with the Slee KDSS relocate brackets. I had hell getting the passenger side sway bar end link back into the lower control arm since it's bent to the end or beyond its range.

 

[RobRed]

The bulk of this thread is old but I thought I'd mention previous experience.

I havent jumped into the deep end on suspension yet on my 200 however to solve a few problems on the 100 I had extended links made for the front - I bought a pair of factory links and then had an off-road fab shop lengthen them for $40. The variable here look like angle + length?

 

[Willy beamin]

Did anyone ever find or develop a better sway bar link?

I changed out the suspension on my '17 Land Cruiser over the weekend. I'm running 285/75R17 tires on Rock Warrior wheels with the Slee KDSS relocate brackets. I had hell getting the passenger side sway bar end link back into the lower control arm since it's bent to the end or beyond its range.

What I did was simple - as mentioned in the first section...move the end link to the outside of the swaybar end link bracket. cut a spacer to fill the new void in the bracket, drill a hole through said spacer, get the proper length bolt and bolt it back together. I've ran this set up for a couple years without issue. doesn't need to be overly complicated and its proven to work.
good luck

 

[RobRed]

So your solution solved the angle portion - thoughts on the link length?

 

[Willy beamin]

pioneer it dude. All i know is I dont have length issues