Got some of the Landtank DIY panhard adjustment sleeves and some Toyota bushings. The rear is all finished and ready to go. Front will be some this next week.
Got the rear bar in and dialed in. Rear axle is centered damn near perfectly now. Bar sits damn near level with the axle. I had installed the drop bracket from Man-a-fre years ago, but it wasn’t enough to center the axle.
In order to get the lengthened bar in I had to get my leg workout in. This is why you should never skip leg day!
Front bar was removed and it’s going to the shop tomorrow to get new bushings pressed in and the adjustment sleeve welded in.
Changed out the plugs, cap and rotor. They all had around 30k miles on them. Note the coil electrode is receded into the cap itself. Plugs didn’t look bad though.
Traded out the old, tired, and cracked oil separator with a newer more durable one.
It was sold with bracket and was marketed specifically towards the hellcats.
The bracket worked perfectly with two simple little bends.
Getting more of the to-do list completed. Had a new windshield installed, cleaned out the sunroof drains (no more wet floors) removed some old wiring under the hood and deleted the PAIR valve. Makes the engine compartment look a lot cleaner. Now I want a burrito warmer!
Next weekend I’ll be attempting to refurbish the exhaust heat shields.
Removed the heat shields, patched them up with hi temp JB weld and painted them with hi temp paint. Nothing like buying new ones, but looks better then it did.
Following the thread started by @jcardona1 I finally got around to deleting my abs/lspv.
I have been running with the abs fuse out and I removed the bulb in the dash many years ago. After my brake booster went out I decided now would be a good time to remove the dead weight and do this delete properly.
I’ve already removed all of the wiring and sensors from the axles and used the W E sensor covers to seal up the holes. My new (used) booster should be here soon and I will swap out the old unit and do a full bleed and test drive this ole girl to see if it’s any better or worse then before. I’ll post up more pics as I go along. Additionally, I have not had a chance to tidy up connectors etc after the removal. That will be done after the booster as well.
**I haven't tested this on the road yet since my truck is on jack stands, working on a knuckle rebuild. But I did test the system and so far no leaks** After fighting with my rusted-to-hell LSPV and trying to adjust it, I got fed up and decided to get rid of it. Debated and bypassing it and...
Got around to completing the rest of the LSPV/ABS removal. While I was in there, I replaced the booster, master cylinder, frame to axle brake lines from @sleeoffroad, used the Solve Function spacer in the rear to utilize the LSPV “L” fitting and capped off the old ABS connectors under the hood with electrical tape. After taking it for a test drive, I immediately could tell the difference. The brakes feel great and responsive. Although this rig is a pig it by no means stops on the dime. Albeit much better than with the old ABS system.
After a few test drives and hard braking on loose gravel I could not get the rears to lock up first. At this point I won’t be adding a proportioning valve.
I ended up using some old brake lines to bench bleed the new MC. Notice the new MC (non abs model) has the “f” input facing horizontal instead of vertical.
10/10 recommend this mod!
My old Superstart 34/78 battery finally took a dump after 3 years. We had some below freezing days here in Middle Tennessee and it put a hurting on the last straws this battery had. After some searching (online and around town) I found the last group 27 Duracell battery in stock at Sam’s Club. I was going to get an interstate from Costco for $110, but for $140 I couldn’t pass up the high CCA and higher CA over the interstate. It was nice having the side posts on the super start to attach the winch wiring to. This thing fires up like it never has before with this battery!
Some things that I’ll likely be doing in the near future are removing the aftermarket alarm system, bypassing the rear heater (not leaking yet), and valve cover gasket while I’m at it. Will also likely replace the distributor O ring since It’s been about 10 years since I replaced it.