Another restoration...

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thats looking very clean and alot better from the org pics. Keep up the good work and keep us posted!
 
sine80 said:
thats looking very clean and alot better from the org pics. Keep up the good work and keep us posted!

Clean ?? From a few feet away .. :)

much better than before but on the budget , I have spent so far around $400
and a lot of it is cleaning supplies , paint, grinding wheels and of course the calipers which was $75 for the pair loaded from Autozone the cheapest I could find for both calipers, I might have to get 2 wheel cylinders for the rear which will cost $19 each at Napa not bad .
The bedliner really hides a lot of scars I am very happy with that,
too bad they don't make smaller quantity for touch ups .

>>Correction the Napa guy made a mistake they are $60 each
so I shopped around Advance autoparts online sells them for $45 each... bummer
I have to wait until the 3rd to drive it around the block
 
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man that looks 100% better with that paint on there...it's coming along nicely. looks like you know what your doing. good luck.
 
red dirt squirt said:
man that looks 100% better with that paint on there...it's coming along nicely. looks like you know what your doing. good luck.

Thanks but this was my first time.... before this I could do my brakes and change the oil that's it
I am ok at welding however I made some horrible welds at times but the structural stuff is good ...
always in a hurry and I am doing this outside in the driveway I don't have a garage
and some days it was really windy, trying to weld or paint and then the rain and lets not forget the heat 90-95 in the shade the tools are so hot you can't touch them unless you dip them in a bucket of water.

The reason I took on this project was also to learn more about autobody stuff
and this kind of metalworking... I didn't but I know more about cruisers
and that's all it matters ;)
 
Hey Poldo
Nice work, I learnt / am learning the same way. I looked at your shackle picture closer, and noticed that it does not matter on your truck because you do not have the plate there for the anti reversible shackle to work anyway. You will have no problems, and I wouldn't worry about it ( usually it would be the other way so that the shackle stops before it gets inverted while the spring is drooping). Good luck the rest of the way.
Cheers,
Deny
 
...another update on those cylinders canceled my order with Advance auto
and order both from CCOT wouldn't you know they have the best price $28 each cylinder $109 for the set of 4 front or rear I should really change all 4 but the other 2 are just fine the rubber is in great shape there is exterior rust but if they lasted 30 years it is because they are especially well made so as long as they move freely and don't leak in my opinion they are good
I will rebuild them later on
 
Deny said:
Hey Poldo
Nice work, I learnt / am learning the same way. I looked at your shackle picture closer, and noticed that it does not matter on your truck because you do not have the plate there for the anti reversible shackle to work anyway. You will have no problems, and I wouldn't worry about it ( usually it would be the other way so that the shackle stops before it gets inverted while the spring is drooping). Good luck the rest of the way.
Cheers,
Deny

Thanks, I would have replaced the shackles and put them in the proper direction (just for the aesthetic factor) but it was really hard to put them in
:)
Next is a tire /jerry can holder rack


I think my next move is to bulid a garage and buy another FJ40 maybe a 64
or so and this time do a real restorartion... no more scrap yard
 
It is running .. after initial small issues like blue smoke and misfring I managed to tweak the carb a 2bbl holley and flush the crankcase now it is running well and the smoke is gone.. so far
I am sure it is running rich with that stupid 650cfm carb I am not an expert but I think 650cfm is too much for this engine

pictures coming soon
 
The rattle can paint job is almost done here are some pictures with the
parts primed with zero rust.. I was tempted to leave it zerorusted because I really like the look of it but the color is not close enough to the factory yellow mustard
these first 3 are zero rust only
applied with a $10 spray gun from Grizzly not bad
apronzerorust.webp
fenderzerorust.webp
fronzerorust.webp
 
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Now one more ZR and the rest is rattle can Krylon Farm implement
New cat yellow
lsidezerorust.webp
cowlpainted.webp
fenderpainted.webp
 
It looks good but I need to wet sand it and maybe one more coat of Krylon in some spots.
I will also spray on some clear coat because the cans never really get hard enough so Im hoping the clear coat will give it some scratch resistance


this other pic are the front and rocker zero rusted black
rockerzerorusted.webp
 
sorry i didn't get back earlier...the implement yellow is cat outside yellow...4c4200 is cat motor yellow...a little bit different shade. that looks really awesome!!! i'll be tearing my 45 down someday to do the body and i hope it turns out that good (first i gotta get the 45 up and running and enjoy it for a year or two though ;) )
 
nuclearlemon said:
sorry i didn't get back earlier...the implement yellow is cat outside yellow...4c4200 is cat motor yellow...a little bit different shade. that looks really awesome!!! i'll be tearing my 45 down someday to do the body and i hope it turns out that good (first i gotta get the 45 up and running and enjoy it for a year or two though ;) )

I get it now.. yes it is the outside I didn't know they had different shades for inside and outside

I have 0 skills with the sprayer or rattle can I am always impatient and I didn't even wet sand between coats as many suggested but so long that you use nice even strokes and don't overspray it looks good enough.

I really should have left the zero rust (which by the way is new cat yellow) without the krylon on top but the color difference from the dash and other parts was bugging me the old cat yellow is close to the original with the right light and a few beers, really didn't feel like tearing down the dash and engine bay
I need to drive this thing before the winter kicks in I don't have the hard top and doors ready(that's another project) and the winter here in NY can be painful .
 
understand completely...my 68 was a four year project and it was killing me to not be able to drive it. my 45 is also pushing 4 years, but i've rebuilt almost everything. i won't have the money to do the body work for a while and the bed will take the most work (cab and front just need to be dipped), so i can have that done while i'm driving it. same with the pig...get em running, then worry about making them look pretty...i wanna drive them NOW!
 
nuclearlemon said:
understand completely...my 68 was a four year project and it was killing me to not be able to drive it. my 45 is also pushing 4 years, but i've rebuilt almost everything. i won't have the money to do the body work for a while and the bed will take the most work (cab and front just need to be dipped), so i can have that done while i'm driving it. same with the pig...get em running, then worry about making them look pretty...i wanna drive them NOW!

I finished it today now I am counting down, I still have a lot to do but for now it will take me around that is assuming nothing goes wrong with the engine
I ordered the master cylinder and that should make it legal and ready to inspect, no emission upstate Ny :)
 
Gus said:
Nice work Poldo, the Cat yellow was a good choice.

Thanks.. I still like the original mustard yellow better it is very soothing :)
but this will do when the light is not shining directly onto it they are similar
but hey what do I know I am mildly colorblind :)

true... I had my wife and my 5 year old picking the right color
 
here it is in drivable conditions after the paint job...finally
I started in May and now it is drivable I still need to do so much but
this is a 1000% improvement.
And a quick reminder of what it was before I started
done01.webp
done02.webp
tetanusII.webp
 
driving impression

Today I officially finished the " restoration" loosely applied term
of my 78 4 speed .... my first real driving experience.

I put about 15 miles on the meter
the cruiser is mostly stock with an Holley carb

speed: after initial esitation I went on the highway and pushed it to 60
very easy it has plenty more juice probably will go 80-85 top

drives straight :)


at 50mph I need an intercom to communicate with passenger my ears are still buzzing
fumes from the exhaust are nasty they just come back in ,
there is also a little gas smell probably because the tank is not vented
yet
my kidney can take the pounding but it is a harsh ride the only thing worse
is my 94 ford explorer though not as stiff as the cruiser the ride is very rough
lots of suspension vibrations

all and all I loved it
I find strange however that in 2 gear I can start moving without stuttering
really don't need to use the first gear at all on the road.

The only thing that bothers me is the fumes , the rest I can live with.

I am actually very happy with the ride it is straight no wandering steering is tight and no weird vibrations I can't say anthing about noises because if there where any I wouldn't be able to hear them :)

the engine is very strong I didn't check compression but I bet is up there on all 6 I have been driving my wife's volvo(before she rolled it over)
and this 2f feels similar..

I will probably have to re torque the header bolts and reroute the exhaust
 
Hi All:

"Poldo," great work! I finished a 2/3rds body tub swap on my FJ40 in June, so I have an idea of what you are going through!

Though not a big fan of the "diamond plate" look I'll admitt it looks good with outside yellow paint/back inside paint.

Keep up the good work, and hope you enjoy driving your rig soon!

Regards,

Alan
Seattle
 

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