Another “help me get it running” thread

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Make sure your base plates are tight ... a vac leak there is bad

Try these:


If your at 2 turns ... move it out one more full turn

Those are idle mixture screw ... not like a typical air mix

It depends on your idle jets what these will be set at

If no go...

Move the idle speed screw out one full turn with the idle mix still at 3
 
JohnnyC said:
Make sure your base plates are tight ... a vac leak there is bad

Try these:


If your at 2 turns ... move it out one more full turn

Those are idle mixture screw ... not like a typical air mix

It depends on your idle jets what these will be set at

If no go...

Move the idle speed screw out one full turn with the idle mix still at 3
Click to expand...


Thanks, I'll definitely try this.
 
One other thought I had is that i'm running one of those cheap micro electric fuel pumps. It has a flow rating of 3psi. Is it possible that its flooding out the weber? I'm not opposed to replacing it with a mechanical pump or throwing a pressure regulator in line before the carb.
 
Adarcy said:
One other thought I had is that i'm running one of those cheap micro electric fuel pumps. It has a flow rating of 3psi. Is it possible that its flooding out the weber?
Click to expand...

No
 
Forget the carb for now. Since you have had the distributor out, get the static timing right first. Make sure that the engine is at TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke. Check that both valves are fully up on #1 if you are not sure. Then rotate the distributor clockwise about 45 degrees. Pull the center wire from the cap and position it 1/8 inch from the block. Turn the key on and slowly rotate the distributor CCW until it sparks and stop and tighten the hold down. Then pour a tablespoon of gas into the carb and try to start it. It should fire.

Be sure that the distributor is fully seated first or you will have no oil pressure.
 
Thanks everyone. My 40 is out at a friends shop, so I will be trying several of these things this weekend when I go out there.

I'm going to turn the mixture screw out to 3 turns
Idle speed screw out to 2.5 turns
I'm going to remove and make sure the idle jets are clear
I'm going to make sure the jets at the bottom of the fuel bowl in carb are clear as well
I'm going to put a fresh set of spark plugs in it
I'll check the static timing per pin_head's suggestion
and i'll check to make sure the carb is grounded per Krondor's suggestion

Thanks again!
 
Mind you bringing it out to 3 was it just see it it helped to get it to run... not be be confused with being set there

If you get it to run and then running well you need to follow the weber setup

 
Back at it. I did everything below without any change. The 40 still fires up immediately with a tablespoon of fuel down the carb, but dies immediately after it burns that fuel up.

I'm left scratching my head on this one. I have a DUI distributer I could throw in it, but i'm not sure that's the right choice. I'm also wondering if its possible that this Weber carb is junk and one of the fake's that i've recently been reading about. How can I tell if thats the case?

My original plan was to put a Holly Sniper EFI kit on. Since I know I have spark, i'm wondering if I should just proceed down that path. I have the Sniper kit sitting here in a box waiting... I hate to introduce more variables by proceeding with the Sniper, but it also probably doesn't make sense to throw money at buying another carb to replace this weber?






Adarcy said:
Thanks everyone. My 40 is out at a friends shop, so I will be trying several of these things this weekend when I go out there.

I'm going to turn the mixture screw out to 3 turns
Idle speed screw out to 2.5 turns
I'm going to remove and make sure the idle jets are clear
I'm going to make sure the jets at the bottom of the fuel bowl in carb are clear as well
I'm going to put a fresh set of spark plugs in it
I'll check the static timing per pin_head's suggestion
and i'll check to make sure the carb is grounded per Krondor's suggestion

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
 
If you pump the throttle does it squirt fuel?

Is the choke engaged?

The pic you posted IS a weber... and the choke is open

If you hold the throttle open will it start then?

Once it starts and you give it some throttle can you keep it running

Did you check the carb base to see if it’s loose
 
Yes to the choke being engaged. I also tried manually closing the choke about 75/80% while cranking. The only way it starts is if I put fuel down the throat of the carb.

The carb does squirt fuel when pumping the throttle.

No to holding the throttle to get it to start.

After I do get it to start by adding fuel manually (or by pumping the throttle several times prior to starting - same effect) it starts, then dies after a second or two. If I give it any throttle after the initial start up, it dies as if its being flooded out.

All carb and riser bolts are tight.

JohnnyC said:
If you pump the throttle does it squirt fuel?

Is the choke engaged?

The pic you posted IS a weber... and the choke is open

If you hold the throttle open will it start then?

Once it starts and you give it some throttle can you keep it running

Did you check the carb base to see if it’s loose
Click to expand...
 
What is messing with me is if it will start by manually adding fuel or by pumping the throttle prior to starting, why can't it stay running by continuing to pump the throttle?

Makes me wonder if the problem is elsewhere?

Would additional pictures help?
 
When you can get it to start will it idle? But add fuel it will die correct?
 
JohnnyC said:
When you can get it to start will it idle? But add fuel it will die correct?
Click to expand...

Ah, great question. It won't idle on its own or by pumping the throttle. However, if I physically keep adding small amounts of gas down the carb it will stay running until I stop....Stumped.
 
Picture of the throttle screw position

Picture of choke closed

Pic at dead center above carb with flash on to see in the air correction and carb vent area

You can put a thin piece of wood into the carb vent on top to check fuel level

If you can pull the idle jet and check size on both sides that would be good
 
After a very insightful chat with @JohnnyC I got her running. Turns out she just wanted more fuel. I swapped out the Weber 32/36 for a Weber 38/38 and it fired right up.

Now that it runs i've found a bad exhaust leak from where the manifold meets the head. It seems to be a debated topic. Toyota brand manifold gasket? Fel-Pro? 1 Gasket or two gaskets? Use the gasket sealer or install the gasket dry?
 
Adarcy said:
After a very insightful chat with @JohnnyC I got her running. Turns out she just wanted more fuel. I swapped out the Weber 32/36 for a Weber 38/38 and it fired right up.

Now that it runs i've found a bad exhaust leak from where the manifold meets the head. It seems to be a debated topic. Toyota brand manifold gasket? Fel-Pro? 1 Gasket or two gaskets? Use the gasket sealer or install the gasket dry?
Click to expand...

I used one fel-pro. I had intake indexed before install and it was close, not perfect. Torque again after a certain amount of time per instructions. Works perfect.
 
While i'm waiting for my new gasket to arrive I decided to start it back up to narrow down where the manifold was leaking. While doing so I saw that I had unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust port for #5 (clearly the source of my manifold leak). Pulled the #5 plug and the rest of the plugs, all are wet.

Does this indicate a too lean condition? Cleaned up the plugs, double checked gaps, opened the idle mixture screws up to 2.5 turns, and checked voltage a the coil (11.50).

How do I attack this?
 
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